t_g_farrell

iTrader: (1)

Replace all wear items, don't skimp. This means brakes, pads, rotors and drums if out of spec,
bearings, hoses, bushings, fluids, filters. Make a list with the most critical at the top and just start
working through it. When you are done it will be like new again.

hcaulfield57

iTrader: (1)

Okay, so I'm having my shop drain fuel tank, replace fuel filter, replace brake/clutch lines, replace brake master cylinder.

Once I get the car back, I'm replacing all the coolant hoses, air filter and alternator/water pump belt which is cracking. Dunno, what I'll do after that, maybe oil lines as well.

More questions:

1) With regards to items like the steering box that are NLA, is it worth buying a spare of something like this so that when it's serviceable/adjustable life wears out I'm good to go, or can they be rebuilt? Atkins Rotary offers a rebuilt box, but I didn't know if people generally got these rebuilt or just replaced them.

2) Also, is it considered bad for the steering box to turn while the car is stationary? I know the steering is a weak point in this car, so I want to make sure I keep it in good condition.

3) Is it okay to drive the car with the choke **** pulled? Should you generally wait until the choke pops in to drive the car? Keep it under a certain rpm until the coolant gets up to normal temperature?

JSmall

Can't comment on the steering box questions.. But with the choke. Start the car and drive - no need to sit there wasting fuel waiting for it to warm up. I tend to keep mine under 3000-ish give or take while its cold

hcaulfield57

iTrader: (1)

Thanks for the response, I've been doing just this now. Boy is the car slow under 3,000 rpm though. Cruising I'm usually between 3,500-5,000 rpm.

Anyone have any comment on the steering box question? I think mine is fine, but I'm wondering if I should source a spare or not. Looks like you can still get new steering boxes, but who knows for how long. Seems like this is one of the parts that gets the most wear and doesn't have a good replacement.

wankel=awesome

Noooooo. Warm it up lol. That little motor will thank you for doing it by living a long time.

hcaulfield57

iTrader: (1)

Do you suggest an alternate warming-up procedure? I certainly don't mind erring on the side of caution (especially when it comes to expensive components). In addition to what was suggested above, in the morning I've been waiting for the engine to come up to operating temperature on it's own (well I leave once the choke pops back in). I try to keep the RPMs low until the temp needle gets to where it usually is, then I rev it all over the place Any more input would certainly be appreciated.

JSmall

Why would it damage my engine? Driving around on a cold engine under 3000 is nothing. Full choke is about 3000 rpm anyway. Might as well be driving instead of wasting time

t_g_farrell

iTrader: (1)

Its less about warming up and more about not loading the engine heavily until the OMP is
providing sufficient flow to provide oil to the intake. It takes awhile for the oil to start moving in
from the OMP lines.

hcaulfield57

iTrader: (1)

Well, I've been driving the car for some time now, so I have a much better feel for the car and what I like and don't like. I've replaced weather-stripping on both doors, replaced all the coolant hoses, replaced spark-plugs, spark-plug wires, distributor cap, adjusted idle, next thing is probably to fix the leaky beehive oil cooler, waiting for an oil change though.

The car is super responsive, the engine is amazing. The car is very fast in the canyons and corners like no other car I've driven. I've never driven a car so responsive and communicative. Did I say how awesome the engine is? I was expecting it to be peaky, but it's not, I feel like I have power everywhere (albeit very little). The smoothness and way the engine revs is unlike any other engine, and the sound is addicting, like a jet-turbine.

Honestly the only thing I don't like about the car is the steering. The steering is pretty terrible, although I think I have a better one as far as these go. There is zero on-center feel, however unlike most RX-7s there is also zero play in the steering, any movement in the wheel and the car moves. Straight line highway driving is kind of pain, since the car tends to move around a bunch. However, in the canyons and twisties, I don't really notice the steering, and it seems pretty good and isn't as "numb" or "dead". The steering seems much more communicative in these situations. Can be a little scary going from left turn to right when you hit the dead-spot though.

Since I feel I don't have the usual symptoms that people have with steering, does anyone have any recommendations? I checked for play on the tension rods, idler arm, pitman arm, but I couldn't feel any play, although I'm not 100% sure what I'm doing or looking for. I was planning on replacing items with the steering, but I honestly don't know if it will have any effect. What are ways to increase steering feel? I was thinking maybe move to urethane bushings in the front or possibly replace tension rods, control arms with an after-market piece. I'm thinking of going to a 350mm Sparco steering wheel as well. Was planning on keeping everything stock, but it's criminal how awesome the car is, and how bad the steering is. I don't think the steering ruins the car, but it certainly isn't helping any either.

I know the recirculating-ball will always be inferior to rack and pinion, but there's got to be a way to improve it, the RX-7 didn't randomly win all those races, surely there's some room for improvement. Thoughts?

t_g_farrell

iTrader: (1)

Sounds like your steering is a-ok to me. Cant hurt to get the poly bushings all around up front,
it will make it feel a lot tighter. I would recommend the MOOG parts for all the steering
components, especially the idler arm. If the idler arm is loose it will affect the feel.

I would guess you grew up only driving rack and pinion steering cars by your reactions. Get used
to it, recirc ball is not as precise and yes people raced that way. Ever see what it takes to drive
a model T? Same kind of deal, it was considered easy back in 1920 but these days its a very
strange setup to drive.

wankel=awesome

How many 12a's have you maintained past 200k? Warm it up. Just do it.

hcaulfield57

iTrader: (1)

Would there be any discernible advantage to replacing bushings and the idler arm with the Moog part if they don't currently need to be replaced?

I think at the very least, I'll end up getting a different steering wheel, only disadvantage I can see is increased steering effort, but honestly I think the steering is a bit light currently, so I think it would be worthwhile. I'd imagine once I get off the snow tires, I'll get more feedback too.
The only other car I've driven with recirculating ball is a 79' Corvette (family member's). The steering on my RX-7 is loads better by comparison. The car is older than me by a large amount, but I don't care for new cars, and I always wanted a rotary. And that's a fair point, with regards to the Model T analogy, it's an old small sports car, so naturally it's going to be more involved and challenging to drive. Definitely the most challenging car I've ever driven - and I'm not complaining by any means

t_g_farrell

iTrader: (1)

I'd bet they are in need of replacement, plus its cheap for the parts and easy to
do. You will thank yourself later.

JSmall

Nah I'm cool aye. No point is wasting time as it's not damaging my engine so I am happy with it