Need some info on first generation RX-7's
#1
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Need some info on first generation RX-7's
Hello. My name is Frank. I am looking into buying a first generation Mazda RX-7. I joined this site to learn about them before I make any decisions. I have a few questions. First of all what is the difference between FC, FB, etc... I know I am supposed to search before I ask questions, and I did. I could not find exactly what I was looking for. Also should I get carbuerated or Fuel injected? Also is the 12a actually 1.2 liters because i think it is actually like 1.146 or something. I want to go turbo if I get a 12a but is it possible/easy to do if it didnt already come on it / how many miles can the car have with it still being safe to turbo it. Also what are the gear ratios like on a 85 rx7 with a 12a? I know thats a lot of questions. Sorry I am very new to RX-7's and I dont know much about them yet. Any advice is welcome. Thanks ~Frank.
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sa/fb=first gen fc=second gen fd=3rd gen Umm good luck finding a gslse for a decent price and just read the faq section and you should learn a lot of stuff bud.
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Look in the faq's about the turbo swap. Easy is relitive. If you have good skills and the money all is easy. If you only have one of the two it's going to be difficult if nothing esle from a point of view of being patient.
#6
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do a search for "FB, FC, f-me" and also do a search on "chronicles turbo". That should just about answer any questions you read. Check the FAQ sticky on the first page of the 1st gen forum.
#7
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As you new on the forum, here is your only free non-search response!
1. Answer above, the Gen 1 was SA 22C, but in the USA later became designated as FB to fit in with the DIN requirements. Outside of North America it still was SA.
2. Adding fuel injection to a 12A is expensive, keep the Nikki carb or later go Weber. If you want FI buy a gsl-se with the 13B engine which is already FI.
3. The 12A is 1.146litres, equivalent to 2.292 in a piston engine depending on your point of view as how to measure capacity in a rotary.
4. Easy to turbo, see for example www.Rotaryshack.com. You can retain the carb, but in reality you also need to look seriously at upgrading the suspension, brakes, wheels and tires to make use of the added power.
5. Your engine will need a rebuild if more than 50,000 miles old to be on the safeside. The last thing you want is a blown engine with major internal damage.
6. 12A gear ratios are 3.674, 2.217, 1.432, 1.000, .825, fd 3.909. They are a great choice by Mazda. A few people change the final drive for a modified engine to use the higher revs for better acceleration. The disadvantage is increased fuel consumption and engine wear. By then the experts usually do their own mechanical work so rebuilding is not expensive.
1. Answer above, the Gen 1 was SA 22C, but in the USA later became designated as FB to fit in with the DIN requirements. Outside of North America it still was SA.
2. Adding fuel injection to a 12A is expensive, keep the Nikki carb or later go Weber. If you want FI buy a gsl-se with the 13B engine which is already FI.
3. The 12A is 1.146litres, equivalent to 2.292 in a piston engine depending on your point of view as how to measure capacity in a rotary.
4. Easy to turbo, see for example www.Rotaryshack.com. You can retain the carb, but in reality you also need to look seriously at upgrading the suspension, brakes, wheels and tires to make use of the added power.
5. Your engine will need a rebuild if more than 50,000 miles old to be on the safeside. The last thing you want is a blown engine with major internal damage.
6. 12A gear ratios are 3.674, 2.217, 1.432, 1.000, .825, fd 3.909. They are a great choice by Mazda. A few people change the final drive for a modified engine to use the higher revs for better acceleration. The disadvantage is increased fuel consumption and engine wear. By then the experts usually do their own mechanical work so rebuilding is not expensive.
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#8
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^ I will have to disagree with number 5 ... i do recommend you do a compression check on the engine before getting it and see how things go ... also have some automatic transmition fluid handy with you ... if compression is kinda low toss some of that in there (about 1oz in each rotor) and come back to it the next day and check compression again. if still low will need rebuild if not .. .you're fine.. it mostly depends on how the person before you drove it .
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