In need of some help
11-30-06, 09:12 AM
#1
Green to RX-7's
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In need of some help
I don't get to these boards often enough. mainly come here when i need some advice, just don't have time it doesn't seem.
I;m getting ready to redo my clutch and everything have the fly wheel resurfaced and such. I believe that i'm getting some noise form the differential.
Should I just replace the rear end with 85 SE to get the posi from it. seems going rate right now is about 600$ for it. Would also require that i buy wheels and tires. As well as a lot of work that I may not have time for.
Or Should i just have them replace the bearing in the differential and seals and let it go. I plan on one day doing the rear end swap but not sure if it is worth while at the moment to do so.
This is my daily driver, even in the winter. One of these day i will get a pickup that i can set the rex up and get more work done at a time.
If i let someone else else do the work they told me for about 500$ i could get the clutch and flywheel installed. I don't know what they rearend would cost to get i done. Any ideas at what i could expect?
I;m getting ready to redo my clutch and everything have the fly wheel resurfaced and such. I believe that i'm getting some noise form the differential.
Should I just replace the rear end with 85 SE to get the posi from it. seems going rate right now is about 600$ for it. Would also require that i buy wheels and tires. As well as a lot of work that I may not have time for.
Or Should i just have them replace the bearing in the differential and seals and let it go. I plan on one day doing the rear end swap but not sure if it is worth while at the moment to do so.
This is my daily driver, even in the winter. One of these day i will get a pickup that i can set the rex up and get more work done at a time.
If i let someone else else do the work they told me for about 500$ i could get the clutch and flywheel installed. I don't know what they rearend would cost to get i done. Any ideas at what i could expect?
11-30-06, 09:26 AM
#2
Sounds like you need to make friends with some local rotorheads, rather than the shops that want to take your money.
Going rate for an SE is not 600, for that kind of money, you should be able to but the entire SE suspension. Rear end should ne no more than 300, unless it's freshly rebuilt. going rate on the forum seems to be 150-250, keep looking.
As far as the clutch, an oem replacement one runs around 150, 350 for labor is too much.
Going rate for an SE is not 600, for that kind of money, you should be able to but the entire SE suspension. Rear end should ne no more than 300, unless it's freshly rebuilt. going rate on the forum seems to be 150-250, keep looking.
As far as the clutch, an oem replacement one runs around 150, 350 for labor is too much.
12-01-06, 08:19 AM
#3
Green to RX-7's
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While at at store yesterday installing a new printer in meet a man that just had some work done to his son's car. 13b rebuild 2nd gen. Talked to him for a while and got the number of a rotory head that only works on Rex's. Going to drive over there on Sat and see what is going on.
I am hoping that i can work on it with him. Hell maybe see if i can work on the weekend for shop time or something. Learn something more than just checking and changing oil.
I am hoping that i can work on it with him. Hell maybe see if i can work on the weekend for shop time or something. Learn something more than just checking and changing oil.
12-01-06, 09:31 AM
#4
$500 for a clutch job? It better be a good race clutch. Thats too steep if they're going to use over-the-counter clutch @ local partshouse such as pep-boys, kragen and El-Cheapo auto parts. A complete diffy tear down will cost you at least $150 + parts.
12-02-06, 09:37 PM
#7
It takes me about 2 hours of labor if I am going slow to do a clutch(does not count time to resurface flywheel I have a stash of them for these jobs) on a SA/FB even if I factor in the cost of an upgraded clutch set with pilot shaft bearing/ Throwout bearing ($250) the max labor charge should be no more than $100 figure in $40 for the resurfacing and you are at $400............ less for a stock clutch
As for the rear end before i make any recommendations I would need to know what car you actually have ie year and options you may not need very much to get that posi unit you want but if go for whole SE rear end it could also open a can of worms in some cases
As for the rear end before i make any recommendations I would need to know what car you actually have ie year and options you may not need very much to get that posi unit you want but if go for whole SE rear end it could also open a can of worms in some cases
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12-02-06, 10:54 PM
#8
Well, can't tell what model 7 you have? Profile just shows an 83. If it has drum brakes it's a S or Gs model. If it's disc then it's a Gsl meaning you have a limited slip diff.
If you have a garage or access to use a garage you should do this work yourself.
You just need a good floor jack, jackstands, some basic tools for the removal of the trans.
You can either order in a flywheel nut tool or get a 2/1/8 socket(2 and 1/8) from sears to remove the flywheel nut. I have a thread that tells you what to use for a flywheel stop, also a trick in the realignment of the trans which is foolproof. The 1st time you do one you can expect to spend a day because you are unfamilar of what to do. But I can give you a detailed step by step to ease the pain. You can rent a pilot bearing tool remover or buy a cheap one from harbor freight but it needs to be modified.
As far as the Diff noise goes, need alittle more detail on what you are hearing and when you are hearing it. Sometimes the noise is the sign that bearings are getting old but they could make that noise for a long time and not cause any problems. If it is a axle bearing then it needs to be addressed in a timely manner. You you do need a diff and you don't have a Gsl then you could buy one from a member. It's a very straight forward job and it has been covered many times before.
Looking at the quote you are getting for a clutch replacement. That is about the going rate. Higher in some areas, lower in others depending on competition. We all forget that we know how to do the job and approx how long it takes us. However at repair shops they go by the flat rate. Most clutch jobs including R&I of flywheel and pilot bearing call for approx 4-4.5 hours of labor. At rates anywhere from 70-150hr depending on where you are in the country, it adds up fast. If most of us had to pay the going shop rate our cars would probably be sitting awhole lot more then they do. Thank goodness for the forum....
If you have a garage or access to use a garage you should do this work yourself.
You just need a good floor jack, jackstands, some basic tools for the removal of the trans.
You can either order in a flywheel nut tool or get a 2/1/8 socket(2 and 1/8) from sears to remove the flywheel nut. I have a thread that tells you what to use for a flywheel stop, also a trick in the realignment of the trans which is foolproof. The 1st time you do one you can expect to spend a day because you are unfamilar of what to do. But I can give you a detailed step by step to ease the pain. You can rent a pilot bearing tool remover or buy a cheap one from harbor freight but it needs to be modified.
As far as the Diff noise goes, need alittle more detail on what you are hearing and when you are hearing it. Sometimes the noise is the sign that bearings are getting old but they could make that noise for a long time and not cause any problems. If it is a axle bearing then it needs to be addressed in a timely manner. You you do need a diff and you don't have a Gsl then you could buy one from a member. It's a very straight forward job and it has been covered many times before.
Looking at the quote you are getting for a clutch replacement. That is about the going rate. Higher in some areas, lower in others depending on competition. We all forget that we know how to do the job and approx how long it takes us. However at repair shops they go by the flat rate. Most clutch jobs including R&I of flywheel and pilot bearing call for approx 4-4.5 hours of labor. At rates anywhere from 70-150hr depending on where you are in the country, it adds up fast. If most of us had to pay the going shop rate our cars would probably be sitting awhole lot more then they do. Thank goodness for the forum....
03-20-07, 04:14 PM
#9
Green to RX-7's
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Well I appear to be resurrecting old post now.
Thx for the advice. I got a rear end from a member here. It was a small axle and not the larger axle. So now i have a 300$ drive shaft sitting in a closet in my house. Maybe if the drive shaft i have now has the pressed in universal joints then i can get a part made that will reduce the size of my custom drive shaft to the older rear end.
I still need to get the clutch work done.. but in recent developments my speed-o-cable broke. So no odometer or speedometer. Now time to find one of those. Rock Auto didn't seem to have one.
I also need to break down the driver side of the motor. well the stuff attached to that side and replace it all. Stupid oil leaks. Maybe get rid of the beehive while I'm at it.
Rx7Doc: where is the clutch write up at. Does a flywheel have to be resurfaced to work correctly?
rotarydude: The RX7 is an '83. Seems base package to me. VIN is an FB. No power anything. Do/Did have a rear defrost, not working though. Not quite sure what you are looking for other than that. I really qould like to know if SE would go well with it.
Thx again everyone for the advice.
Thx for the advice. I got a rear end from a member here. It was a small axle and not the larger axle. So now i have a 300$ drive shaft sitting in a closet in my house. Maybe if the drive shaft i have now has the pressed in universal joints then i can get a part made that will reduce the size of my custom drive shaft to the older rear end.
I still need to get the clutch work done.. but in recent developments my speed-o-cable broke. So no odometer or speedometer. Now time to find one of those. Rock Auto didn't seem to have one.
I also need to break down the driver side of the motor. well the stuff attached to that side and replace it all. Stupid oil leaks. Maybe get rid of the beehive while I'm at it.
Rx7Doc: where is the clutch write up at. Does a flywheel have to be resurfaced to work correctly?
rotarydude: The RX7 is an '83. Seems base package to me. VIN is an FB. No power anything. Do/Did have a rear defrost, not working though. Not quite sure what you are looking for other than that. I really qould like to know if SE would go well with it.
Thx again everyone for the advice.