Need Serious Help!!!!
06-20-07, 12:05 PM
#1
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Need Serious Help!!!!
I HAVE A BIG PROBLEM. I OWN 1 1ST GEN. IT HAS A FULLY WORKED 12 A. WERE TALKING STREET PORT, HOLLEY 650, HIGH PRESSURE HOLLEY FUEL PUMP, UPGRADED FUEL PRESSURE REGULATOR, HIGH COMPRESSION ROTORS, LOW COMPRESSION CARBON APEX SEALS,2 MSD IGNITION MODULES WITH BLASTER COILS, HEADERS,FULL STRAIGHT PIPE EXHAUST, LIGHT WEIGHT FLYWHEEL,ETC.. I GUESS THATS ENOUGH INFO TO TRY AND FIND OUT THE ISSUE. NOW THE PROBLEM, MY MECHANIC TUNED THE CARB, AND ADJUSTED THE F.P.R., REWIRED MY MSD, ADJUSTED THE TIMING, AND CHANGED MY SPARK PLUGS. ONE OF MY COILS IS NOT RECIEVING SPARK, THEN WE SWITCHED THE COILS AND IT WORKED BUT THEN STOPPED. THEN WE PUT THE OLD ONE BACK AND IT WORKED AND ALSO THEN STOPPED. THE CAR TURNS ON LIKE A CHAMP, JUST LIKE IF IT WAS FUEL INJECTED. IT IDLES BEAUTIFULLY!!! BUT THE SECOND WE GO TO GIVE IT GAS IT SPUTTERS VIOLENTLY! IT SHAKES SO HARD THAT MY SHIFTER INSIDE LOOKS LIKE ITS GOING TO JUMP OUT OF THE CAR AS WELL AS THE MOTOR DOES. EVERYTHING ON THE CAR IS A PERFORMANCE PART. THE MOTOR HAS 10K ON IT. THE CAR WAS COMPLETLEY PUT TOGETHER FROM THE FRAME UP. WE HAVE NO IDEA WHAT IT COULD BE. IF ANYONE HAS ANY FEEDBACK PLEASE LET ME KNOW HERE ON THE FROUM OR BY EMAIL. FRANCISCO.A.FERNANDEZ@GMAIL.COM
THANK YOU VERY MUCH....... THIS TOPIC IS ALSO ON NOPISTONS.COM
THANK YOU VERY MUCH....... THIS TOPIC IS ALSO ON NOPISTONS.COM
06-20-07, 04:25 PM
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dont have ignitors. even returned it to stock set-up and it still wont rev up past like 2,000 rpms. it shakes violently when i try to gas it. someone said maybe there is a spun bearing inside. i dont know man im running out of ideas...
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06-20-07, 06:04 PM
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06-20-07, 06:15 PM
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06-20-07, 06:17 PM
#11
If I were you tho, I would
#1-check cap + rotor / plug wires/connections
#2-check spark plugs
#3-make sure coils have a good body ground, and that the + voltage is constant during revving.
This problem sounds like one or both rotors are losing leading spark, what I would do to determine if its one or both is to start the engine, pull a single leading plug wire and rev it and see if it has even less power. If its the same once youve tried both leading plug wires, then the problem is with the whole leading ignition.
If its a single rotor, the issue is in the cap/rotor or wire to the problem plug (the one that doesnt effect anything) or the plug itself.
If both rotors are affected, then the problem is harder to pinpoint. In this case it could be the coil to cap wire, the carbon button, or contacts in the cap and on the rotor. It could also be a bad coil or triggering device (in your case the MSD).
Hope Ive been of some help.
Good luck
#1-check cap + rotor / plug wires/connections
#2-check spark plugs
#3-make sure coils have a good body ground, and that the + voltage is constant during revving.
This problem sounds like one or both rotors are losing leading spark, what I would do to determine if its one or both is to start the engine, pull a single leading plug wire and rev it and see if it has even less power. If its the same once youve tried both leading plug wires, then the problem is with the whole leading ignition.
If its a single rotor, the issue is in the cap/rotor or wire to the problem plug (the one that doesnt effect anything) or the plug itself.
If both rotors are affected, then the problem is harder to pinpoint. In this case it could be the coil to cap wire, the carbon button, or contacts in the cap and on the rotor. It could also be a bad coil or triggering device (in your case the MSD).
Hope Ive been of some help.
Good luck
Last edited by 1badFB; 06-20-07 at 06:27 PM.
06-20-07, 06:21 PM
#13
If your car starts like a champ, its not a blown engine.
However looking back at your post it says you have a holley 650.
It likely could be falling on its face as soon as you come off the idle circuit. Ive heard holley carbs can be a bitch, and a 650 is prety big.
However looking back at your post it says you have a holley 650.
It likely could be falling on its face as soon as you come off the idle circuit. Ive heard holley carbs can be a bitch, and a 650 is prety big.
06-20-07, 06:23 PM
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What sucks?
I don't think you under stood what I was saying, I said "I was thinking the same thing" to the comment " what are low compression apex seals"
06-20-07, 06:36 PM
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06-20-07, 06:48 PM
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06-21-07, 02:33 AM
#21
A bad side seal won't cause the engine to shake violently above 2k rpm. Bad timing, ignition and/or carb tuning can.
You should be running a high volume/low pressure fuel pump. If the fuel pump is an FI rated pump, you need a return style fpr. The 650 is too big for a 12A-SP. it can be tuned to work, but a smaller carb will work better.
There is no such thing as low compression carbon seals. Carbon seals simply don't hold up well with boost or nitrous.
At this point in time, I would run a full compression test. If 5 of the 6 rotor faces are within specs, try some Seafoam to see if the side seal is simply stuck. If it loosens up and compression improves, then I would take the ignition back to stock, get the carb tuned correctly/ Once the carb and ignition is working right, then work on upgrading the ignition.
Post the results from the compression test.
You should be running a high volume/low pressure fuel pump. If the fuel pump is an FI rated pump, you need a return style fpr. The 650 is too big for a 12A-SP. it can be tuned to work, but a smaller carb will work better.
There is no such thing as low compression carbon seals. Carbon seals simply don't hold up well with boost or nitrous.
At this point in time, I would run a full compression test. If 5 of the 6 rotor faces are within specs, try some Seafoam to see if the side seal is simply stuck. If it loosens up and compression improves, then I would take the ignition back to stock, get the carb tuned correctly/ Once the carb and ignition is working right, then work on upgrading the ignition.
Post the results from the compression test.
06-21-07, 09:49 AM
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A bad side seal won't cause the engine to shake violently above 2k rpm. Bad timing, ignition and/or carb tuning can.
You should be running a high volume/low pressure fuel pump. If the fuel pump is an FI rated pump, you need a return style fpr. The 650 is too big for a 12A-SP. it can be tuned to work, but a smaller carb will work better.
There is no such thing as low compression carbon seals. Carbon seals simply don't hold up well with boost or nitrous.
At this point in time, I would run a full compression test. If 5 of the 6 rotor faces are within specs, try some Seafoam to see if the side seal is simply stuck. If it loosens up and compression improves, then I would take the ignition back to stock, get the carb tuned correctly/ Once the carb and ignition is working right, then work on upgrading the ignition.
Post the results from the compression test.
You should be running a high volume/low pressure fuel pump. If the fuel pump is an FI rated pump, you need a return style fpr. The 650 is too big for a 12A-SP. it can be tuned to work, but a smaller carb will work better.
There is no such thing as low compression carbon seals. Carbon seals simply don't hold up well with boost or nitrous.
At this point in time, I would run a full compression test. If 5 of the 6 rotor faces are within specs, try some Seafoam to see if the side seal is simply stuck. If it loosens up and compression improves, then I would take the ignition back to stock, get the carb tuned correctly/ Once the carb and ignition is working right, then work on upgrading the ignition.
Post the results from the compression test.
06-21-07, 01:24 PM
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A bad side seal won't cause the engine to shake violently above 2k rpm. Bad timing, ignition and/or carb tuning can.
You should be running a high volume/low pressure fuel pump. If the fuel pump is an FI rated pump, you need a return style fpr. The 650 is too big for a 12A-SP. it can be tuned to work, but a smaller carb will work better.
There is no such thing as low compression carbon seals. Carbon seals simply don't hold up well with boost or nitrous.
At this point in time, I would run a full compression test. If 5 of the 6 rotor faces are within specs, try some Seafoam to see if the side seal is simply stuck. If it loosens up and compression improves, then I would take the ignition back to stock, get the carb tuned correctly/ Once the carb and ignition is working right, then work on upgrading the ignition.
Post the results from the compression test.
You should be running a high volume/low pressure fuel pump. If the fuel pump is an FI rated pump, you need a return style fpr. The 650 is too big for a 12A-SP. it can be tuned to work, but a smaller carb will work better.
There is no such thing as low compression carbon seals. Carbon seals simply don't hold up well with boost or nitrous.
At this point in time, I would run a full compression test. If 5 of the 6 rotor faces are within specs, try some Seafoam to see if the side seal is simply stuck. If it loosens up and compression improves, then I would take the ignition back to stock, get the carb tuned correctly/ Once the carb and ignition is working right, then work on upgrading the ignition.
Post the results from the compression test.
