Darknephlim2003

Sorry to put this on you guys, but I need help FAST. My family may be travelling further up north due to the hurricane, because it's supposed to come straight through Longview, Texas. I am not comfortable with idea of leaving my 7 here, so I need some answers to a couple of questions...



My OMP lines are broke, and I've been running premix everytime I start the car to keep the engine good, but I was wondering instead of replacing the lines (Time, or money I don't have), is there any way to plug the lines(Where would I plug them?), and drive a long distance running premix without hurting my engine/omp?

Secondly, my engine temp guage is not reading at all. Could you guys give me a quick rundown of everything it could be so I can get in there quick to fix it?


You may have seen earlier posts of mine saying I need a windshield wiper assembly, because mine is rusted out, and locked up. I apologize to those who offered me that, but I ran into some unexpected finance trouble and I couldn't afford it. So, I'm going to have to use rainX (Yay!) No, but really...just wanted to throw that out there.


Thanks, guys.

lovintha7

For the OMP, just use rubber fuel/emissions hose temporarily and run from the broken lines, to the carb, and premix around 1/2 qt to a full tank. That's insurance. I don't have a wiper assembly.

mcnannay

for a temporary fix, just go get some vacuum caps to seal off the lines, and unhook the rod that connects the omp to the throttle linkage. That should work for you, to at least get out of town.

Most likely the temp guage is because of a faulty temp sender, or could be because of a bad wire, hard to say, but start with a temp sender.

Darknephlim2003

The problem is, the lines are melted pretty far up, so I have no idea where I can cap it. Any suggestions? Also, (newbie, yeah I know....) Where is the temp sender, and (I have a vague idea of where the OMP is, it's bolted on the front of the engine but all looks the same to me. Is the throttle rod easy to remove??

Zyrano

i think you can remove thelines completely and cap them off at the omp, it's a low pressure line, so it shouldn't be a big problem, but unhooking the omp linkage is a good idea too...

Alvin

Darknephlim2003

The lines are broken off from the OMP, not the carb. Also, where is the OMP linkage located? I just went outside, and I didn't see such a thing. Is it internal?

Darknephlim2003

Alright, I just did my homework. The linkage is internal, in the front cover. I don't have the time, nor the expertise to **** with that. However, I do appreciate the suggestion! I'm just going to have to go with the first suggestion about the lines, but do you know where I can get that stuff for cheap? Remember guys, I hardly have any money here....I'm trying.

Zyrano

now you have me all confused... the oil goes from the omp to the carb, so if you have four sets of vacuum caps, plug two in where the omp lines go to the carb (ie, remove the stock lines/rubber elbows and plug up the holes), and do the same thing on the omp. For both the carb and the omp there should be nipples that stick out where you'd normally plug the omp to. as for the linkage, there should be a metal rod that connects from the carb linkage to the omp, so that the omp can pump a proportionate amount of oil with respect to engine rpm, so just unhook the rod as well...

darkfrost

iTrader: (1)

Its a little rod going from the carb down to the OMP, when throttle is opened, the rod moves opening the OMP passage for more oil.

Darknephlim2003

You guys are absolutely going to hate me for this, but I was told the OMP is on the front of the engine. And theres a rod that runs from the carb to that? If ya can give me an exact location of where my OMP is in relation to the carb, I'd be able to answer your question more adequately. I apologize for the confusion.

Darknephlim2003

And, there are only 2 OMP lines, not 4. I have an 82.

RustyRotary

iTrader: (2)

Internal? It should be a rod going from the trottle valve on the carb straight down to the front of the engine. The rod is on the front right side of the engine, and has a horizontal bend in it. Can't miss it. All you have to do is take out a pin and unscrew a nut.

Capping it off would be just as easy. Take off the OMP lines, get some rubber end caps from a hardware or auto store, and put them on the carb and the OMP tubes. If they seem like they might come off just wrap them in some duct tape.

Darknephlim2003

If you're looking at the car from the front, you will see the carb on the BACK left of the engine. Now, unless your calling the back the front (???), then the rod would have to come straight out over the top of the engine until it's past the air pump, and straight down, and curve to the front of engine, which we all know isn't the case. My throttle linkage is to the back right (drivers side) of the car about a foot to the left of my brake master cylinder.

Darknephlim2003

I'm totally confused. I think I'm just going to have to leave it....****...

RustyRotary

iTrader: (2)

Hold on, hold on. I'll have a pic up in a second

Rotor13B

thats' exactly what it does.

RustyRotary

iTrader: (2)

Here. The rod starts at the front side of the carburetor, connected to the throttle valve, and goes down to the lower front-right side of the engine to the OMP, where you will also find the OMP lines. And right is the passenger side. Think of it as if you were sitting in the car. Obviously, the front is the front and the back is the back, then the passenger side is on your right and the drivers side is on your left.

Rotor13B

Man that's a sweet drawing.

RustyRotary

iTrader: (2)

Thanks, though it looks like he gave up =\

thunderpup

Just go to the pet section of your local department store and buy some airline tubing for a fish tank to completely replace the lines. It only rakes about 20 minute to do. This set up has been on my car for about 12,000 miles and I've had no leaks yet. Good luck to you and your family regarding the impending storm.

Thunderpup

jays83gsl

Not bad! What weight pencil did you use?

DriveFast7

iTrader: (1)

nice drawing rusty.

I use clear vynal windshield washer fluid line from autoparts store. it will harden up from heat of engine, but so does stock OMP lines. zip tie each end and you're done.

capping the omp lines don't work, even though it is low pressure, it'll still pop the caps off With OMP rod removed there is still some oil coming out of there.


To remove the OMP and block it, use a VW type IV fuel pump block off plate, similar size and same bolt pattern BUT install it upside down with large fender washers *and* a steel plate under the washers, between both bolt holes. Red RTV high pressure sealant. Takes a lot to keep it from leaking boys, been there, done that.

Jeff20B

iTrader: (13)

Do not block off the OMP lines. Whatever you block them off with will get pushed off through hydrolic pressure. Either run them to the carb as others suggest, or let them drip. Be sure to disengage the rod from the carb of you decide to let them drip. You'll have an oil mess to clean up, but that's better than a water/mold mess to clean in a few weeks.

Use RainX and premix and get out of there.

RustyRotary

iTrader: (2)

Maybe I have no idea what I'm talking about, but wouldn't the pressure in the OMP lines be too small to push off the caps and/or whatever you fasten them with as long as you have the rod from the OMP disconnected?

lol I just use whatever is on hand for random sketches, HB in that case. If anybody else on the forums is artistic maybe we should start an SA/FB art thread

Jeff20B

iTrader: (13)

You could try it. I've seen them pushed off from being blocked before. The OMP bleeds oil pressure and volume from the main oil uh galley (is that what it's supposed to be called?). It doesn't actually 'pump' any oil. If you don't believe me, you should hook up an accurate oil pressure gauge and watch it dip a couple times per second at idle. Most cheap oil pressure guages aren't anywhere near fast-reacting enough to see this interesting effect... Or maybe I'm seeing the result of something else?