ok so i was driving home today and then the car just sputtered and died. i have over a 1/4 tank in the car, and the car was working all day til then. i cannot get the car to restart either, not even if i pop the clutch. the car just seems like it is not getting fuel. any suggestions. and how easy is it to replace a fuel pump, and what would be a good fuel pump?

 

Before you assume that the fuel pump is your problem. Verify that you have spark to the trailing plugs.

 

how would i do this?

 

Take a plug out of the trailing side, attach the corresponding trailing ignition wire to it and ground it so the electrode is touching metal. Crank the motor over and see if there is spark. If you have a extra plug lying around then use that instead of pulling a plug.

 

Could also be a loose connection (wire) to the fuel pump.

 

ok thakns guys

 

^ Would have to be a torn off wire. The fuel pumps are mounted on a steel undertray that is protected from debri. After that, the wire goes right into the lower side of the driverside cargo box. The connections are of the snap type and do not have any type of retaining nuts like a aftermarket holley would.

Milton; forgot to ask. Has your tachometer been acting up at all lately?

 

^ Y'know, I honestly did not know how the setup of the fuel pump was on our cars, but I thought I'd throw that out there since maybe, just maybe (?), you never know if somehow a wire worked loose. Good looking out there, Doc. We both learned something. *L*

 

https://www.rx7club.com/1st-gen-archive-71/electrical-car-died-wont-start-my-tach-not-working-car-84-85-a-597857/

Did you bother searching first?

 

ok so the spark plugs are fine. i wen and bought a fuel pump at advance today. it is a holley blue 110 gph free flow electric pump. will this work fine? it is what they found in there system for the pump to use

 

Easy way to check for fuel starvation on a no start condition is pull the plugs. If they are covered in fuel, start looking elswhere. If they are bone dry, you know where to start. Start with fuel filter. After the car is allowed to be parked for a short time, heavy sediment will settle to the bottom of the filter and can be seen with a visual inspection. Once the sediment has settled, more than likely the car should start back up until the trash gets suspended and sucked back up into the filter element restricting flow. Best bet is to spend the $3 on a replacement and remove all doubts. We are refering to a 12a? To verify pump, you will need to override the pump relay. You need to locate a female multi pin terminal under the dash by the steering column and then attach a jumper wire to two of the pins, this will be covered in any shop manual. This will allow power to the pump when the ignition key is in the on position without actually starting the car. At which point you should hear the pump. You can also disconnect the main fuel line to the carb and direct it into a catch container to confirm fuel flow. If pump is not working, its time to drop it. You don't have to totally pull the pump, just gain enough access to disconnect the power supply. Now you need a meter to confirm power at the connection. If power can be established, then odds are the pump is toast.

This is not all inclusive but just a quick rundown on my approach. Just remember to turn the power off until ready to go hot.

I just noticed you were referred to a Holley. Not sure if that is what you had in mind but I know aftermarket direct replacements are available.

 

This may be too kind of a statement. What are they? Morons at the parts store.
A holley blue is intended for applications where you would be running a Weber or Mikuni. Not a stock carb. You would have to run a aftermarket FPR to cut down the pressure to the carb. Take it back to those morons and find a real parts store. Are there any Napas or Carquests in your area?

Also you need to check the fuel filter and make sure it is not clogged. Also recommend you follow PT Rays advice also before you replace the pump.

 

ok i did buy a filter when i got the pump so i will check that. and yeah i have noticed that they are morons at that store. i will return the pump, then go to napa and get an oem replacement. the pump did come with a fuel pressure regulator tho. should i us that or just go to napa?
but i cant agree more that the employee's are morons there but it is the only parts store open late and my job takes up alot of the day.

 

Return it. You want a replacement pump not a performance pump. If you can't find a decent replacement I have a good used one that I know works.

 

ok so fuel filter is replaced. no all i need is the pump to come in. and i will have a working rex agian

 

If it is worth anything at this point, Mazdatrix actually has the cheapest pump for 83-85 RX7's. Theirs is $100 while the aftermarkets I have found run $140. I find it ironic a factory replacement is cheaper than aftermarkets.

I will also clearify, to gain access to the connector for the pump, the rear drivers side bin will have to be pulled.

 

That is correct.

 

Hmm.... I paid $39 CAD for mine.

It was a Facet universal pump, part number BK 6101050 at NAPA

Works great for a stock 12A.

 

ok so new fuel pump installed and still nothing. i then tried just pouring gas down the carb... the engine turned over and ran til the gas was used. i then got out the good ould multi meter and i have no power going to the fuel pump even with the jumper that is talked about installed, or wehn i have the key on start. so i am left to rewireing the harness. any suggestions on which line to use to wire the hrness. i was thinking the constant from my stereo, or straight from the key. o yeah i checked the trailing plug and it was sparking.

 

Don't expect it to last very long. Where did you mount it at?

 

ok guys so i insalled the new pump and filter, only to find out faulty wiring. then i rewired the pump to the acc wire on ignition. i put in a ground based switch to allow for extra safety. but now my car doesnt want to rev higher then 4.5k-5k or it will bogg down like it is dieing but then i shift and it is fine until 4.5k any suggestions. i think it might be a vaccum leak or the secondaries are not opening for somereason.

 

Make sure that you did not kink the rubber fuel hose when you did the install.

 

Yes part guys around this side of town are plain idiots.
Lets troubleshoot before buying anymore parts. If your car was running fine before the wiring problem, try what the doc mentioned. If that doesn't work, make sure your lines are clear. Did you try running your stock pump before installing a new one after fixing the wiring? Maybe the pump you got is a pos and cuts off causing you to bog.

 

ok i didnt figure out the wireing prob until after i installed the new pump. and i didnt try it. i still can tho. and i didnt have any kinks that i saw. i opened up the air filter canister and had a buddy pump the gas pedal. but i only saw the smaller jets open. the larger ones stayed closed. any ideas?