vipernicus42

iTrader: (4)

Hey Guys,

Well the first rough draft of my "Stripping a Carb" tutorial is ready for review, so before I go releasing it to everybody and their brother, I need a few of you guys who're good at carbs (and preferably good at editing as well) to help me give it a once-over before sending it off.

Prerequisites:
- You must have stripped a Nikki before with good results
- You must be willing to give *constructive* criticism, I want some real feedback here
- You must have Adobe Acrobat Reader (who doesn't?)

Post or PM your email addy and I'll send you the PDF. It's a little under 2mb, not bad considering how many pictures are in it.

And if anyone has a place to host it when it's ready, let me know.

Jon

dj55b

iTrader: (2)

If you'd like to email it to me, I can have it reviewed and try my best to help you out. But i have not done this mod yet ..

Siraniko

iTrader: (13)

While you can post it without my approval, you should send me a copy for my constructive criticism.

vipernicus42

iTrader: (4)

Email addresses guys?

PMs don't have attachments... at least that I know about. And 2mb would probably be too big anyway.

Email me at vipernicus42@hotmail.com and I'll reply back with it.

Jon

Edit: I forgot to mention that the tutorial is based off an '84-85 model Nikki Carb. Most of it should be accurate for the '81-83 carbs as well, but for SA's I don't know how much of it is really useful...

dj55b

iTrader: (2)

So just briefly read the manual right now and a couple of pointers:

If you can just circle all the bolts that need to be removed in the pictures instead of just stating them. And maybe also the actualy parts. But your tutorial is pretty good at showing before and after pictures.

Another thing that would be nice is to have a shopping list of how many caps your need and what size, bolts size required using on blocking plate (Length, thread pitch, diameter). It would help everybody to have all the parts needed before hand to cut down on time.

For the AAB way of you blocking it off with JB weld and a screw. Just mentioning in there that using a hose and bolts then zip tie it will also work might be a good thing for the closed minded.

For the shutter valve, can you not just make another plate for it and use it along with the stock bolts? Like i said I have not done this mod yet, but seems to be the easier way for me than JB welding.

Once again about circling, circling where the freezer plugs are would help. I know where they are, but for a noob trying to understand what you did isn't that easy.

Besides that everything is alot simpler to understand than the previous tutorial. And thanks for making my old carb look naked .

PS: I think i deserve a mentioning in there to having my carb used

vipernicus42

iTrader: (4)

*laughs*

Thanks for the input Sam. You're right, I totally forgot about the shopping list, and I'll add indicators to some of the pictures. With the pics so small, it would have been too busy-looking to have pointers on all of them, and for some pages I didn't find it necessary since there are three pics, but I'll see what I can do to make it clearer.

You're right about the Alt Comp... I've still got mine on the car, and I've still got sheet metal and silicon. Sounds like I've got a project for tonight

I mentioned about the AAB vac source spot.. I wouldn't recommend using a hose and just blocking it off because you're inviting a vacuum leak if you do that. If you *must* have it reversible, then cap the hose and don't do any of the Intake Manifold section mods. Only 1-11 are reversible, the rest isn't.

But yeah, I'll put all that info into the tutorial.

Jon

ray green

iTrader: (14)

I read the tutorial Jon but have not yet studied it, mostly I looked at the pictures. It is easily the best yet, but still needs some work.

Like DJ said, you gotta circle stuff for us idiots.

Also, you said almost nothing about, after you got your nikki stripped, how to hook it up and toon it. Like, where do you hook your dizzys and, if you need to have it, AC?

And here's the most important question of all, can you reactivate the shutter valve to save gas and quell those backfires I keep getting when decelerating at high speed?

Thanks, nice work!

Ray

dj55b

iTrader: (2)

Ray Beat me to it. I was thinking about this at work briefly and also though about seeing nothing about how to rehook up thing and in what hipples. It would be nice to have a shot of all the nipples under the carb to see what is cover and what isn't. Also just draw a line from the ones used and mark what they are going to.

If I think of anything else I will let you know ...

Ray: How does the shutter vavle save gas? Just out of curiostity.

ray green

iTrader: (14)

Well I'm just guessing about the shutter valve actually saving gas, my main reason is to try to get rid of those little pops when I decellerate quickly, especially at high speed (I know some folks actually like the pops, but I'm not into drawing attention).

As I understand the shutter valve, it closes when you decellerate to block fuel from entering the engine. Without the shutter valve, this bit of fuel goes into the engine but doesn't get burned in the combustion chamber, instead popping in the hot exhaust. So if you could block this bit of fuel with the shutter valve, no more pops and maybe a little fuel saved?

Now the problem is, after reading Jon's tutorial more carefully, that with the Nikki stripped there is no way for the computer to know that the car is decellerating, so it can't send the electrical signal to the shutter valve solenoid, which therefore can't send the vacuum to the shutter valve that is needed to close the valve at the right time.

I'm thinking it may be possible to just hook up the shutter valve solenoid, but you would also need the throttle position sensor that tells the computer when the throttle is let up. Of course the throttle position sensor has been removed in the stripped Nikki, so it would kind of defeat the purpose, I suppose, to start putting things back on.

Anyway, I'm going to just try leaning out the idle mixture a bit and see if that helps, but it's the problems like these that I hope Jon will address in his "Chapter II - the Installation".

dj55b

iTrader: (2)

Just a thought here ... not a carb expert, but could you not control it via just vacumm and a oneway valve? If that even makes sense in anyway.

vipernicus42

iTrader: (4)

The nipples on the carb spacer aren't touched at all in this tutorial. That's a rat's nest removal tutorial thing, and is something that should be updated in Carl & Pratch's tutorial.

The carb goes back on exactly the same as it came off. All the vacuum caps on the carb were vac sources for *other* things on the carb. Same with the intake mani, the vac source for the AAB Valve served the AAB Valve that we removed! The only possible exception I can think of are the two spots on the rat's nest where the A/C throttle opener and the shutter valve connected, but if you've got a rat's nest still, that's something you should be keeping track of, because if you don't, you no longer have those spots to worry about anyway.

I'll toss in a section giving pictures of all the vacuum caps we added throughout the process as a summary section, but detailing what the vacuum spots on the spacer go to wouldn't make sense, because I don't know what you've done with the rat's nest stuff. If it's still there, attach it. If it's not, don't.


Ray:

Think of it this way: the shutter valve only controls the rear rotor's primaries. That means that the front rotor is going to get that fuel no matter what anyway. IMHO it was a stupid system for Mazda to put on there, if they were trying to accomplish what you surmise, they should have done it on both the primaries. The only reason I can assume it worked is because they used a single-pipe exhaust setup, so the too-lean condition of the rear rotor served to balance the too-rich condition of the front rotor.

Like I said, full RB exhaust, stripped nikki seen in the tutorial, no pops at all. If you are getting pops on decel, try putting your dashpot back on, you may be letting off the pedal too abruptly.

As for reinstalling the shutter valve, most of the valves I've seen have been seized anyway, as I mentioned in the tutorial. I'm recommending removing it because I've got a half dozen 7s I can reference which don't have them and don't have problems, but if you guys want to figure out how to keep it, go ahead. It seems to me that it'd be more trouble than it's worth.

Not trying to shoot you guys down here, just trying not to make the tutorial a 40 page manual that's tough to follow because of all the "IF" branches...


I'd love to make a section on tuning, but honestly that's a whole 20-pager on its own. If you guys like I can throw in a "how to adjust your idle if it gets affected by these mods" section, but past that you get into jetting and other things that I'm not anxious to figure out for a tutorial. While the stripped nikki is easier to get into compared to stock, it's not as simple as the Sterling for changing fuel jets because of the throttle return springs and their associated bracket. It would be a pain in the *** to remove that for jetting, that's for sure.

Jon

orion84gsl

iTrader: (5)

If you need one, I'm a grammar *****. orion_77_@hotmail.com. It's never fun having people like me take note of every little thing, so in case you want to avoid that I'll offer that simple service

vipernicus42

iTrader: (4)

Sure Orion. I'll send you a copy of the tutorial.

I'm sure you'll find very little to nitpick though, I tend to be pretty cautious when it comes to grammar.

Jon

vipernicus42

iTrader: (4)

So main points I'm going to add/change so far:

- Circling items in pictures
- Shopping List
- Notes about tuning idle mixture when finished
- Brief notes about the vac sources on the rat's nest for the AC and Shutter
- Block off plate info for Alt Comp (maybe, I did say to reference the page on the ACV one for info...)


If we're all really lucky and I end up bored and with a few extra bucks to spend, I'll see if I can make a pictorial out of Sterling's accel pump and mech sec write-ups... but I don't know if I'll do that one since I'd be learning as I went. I've never done mech secs before.

Did I miss anything?

Jon

ray green

iTrader: (14)

Just one thing Jon, we need a picture of your smiling face in there somewhere.

Ray

orion84gsl

iTrader: (5)

I just read it over, looks good, very simple and easy to follow. Just get those few things changed/added and it'll be great. And yeah, no grammar mistakes. Good job

85TIIDEVIL

iTrader: (2)

Did this writeup ever get posted to the public..???

If so anyone have the link...??

If not can you send it to me...? RSDEVIL74@AOL.com

Thanks...!

Kentetsu

Interesting. I missed this thread the first time around.

Currently, all of the stock carb expertise seems to be over at Sterling's site.



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