I started posting about this RX 7 prior to the new year and appropriately was told the vehicle was not in a good shop. That I have no doubt of but with the engine not in the car,and it being 90 miles away, moving it was not an option I could deal with. It went there with recommendations sadly. Initially it went to have the seals replaced. It's a 79 that was stored for forty plus years. I had some easier work done here at home. I'm 71 now and it is not easy for me to do the stuff anymore, given arthritis. I replaced all the hoses and the water pump and plan to reinvigorate an aftermarket AC unit later this year. But the problem now is my ignorance.

The seals and the oil metering hoses were replaced. The seals by the former owner and the hoses were suggested here. It had a nasty oil leak that went right on to the exhaust manifold giving me great concern. Amazingly, they finally did the engine work and here is where I am now at sea yet again. The shop owner called and told me it was ready. The price was what I expected but then he asked about the exhaust system. Again, it was fine when I drove it there and I was not hot to have them do further work and I passed on a new muffler and said I would come the next day to pick it up. I asked that the tech who worked on it to go drive it about 20 miles first. So yesterday I called again and the owner again asked how I was taking the car out and I said I would drive it. He persisted that the exhaust system was not working and he said it had put out a big puff of black smoke and the back pressure on the system was an issue.
I thought about that bit and called back. Back pressure indicted an obstruction to me. The exhaust was exposed on both ends for at least 7 months, possibly more. I could not fathom how a perfectly functioning system would suddenly fail. I suspect squirrels or mice. I view the problem as being on their nickel, not mine which has yet to be addressed. But my really larger concern is what potential damage could have occurred to the engine itself if there really was backpressure on it. I have no idea of the time involved. I'd have to imagine it was short for the exhaust had no where to go.
I'd prefer not to get beaten up on this. I feel badly enough already. It's a beautiful car with 63K on the odometer. When the clock still works, I get chills. I need knowledge.
Thanks
Pete V.

 

All exhaust's provide a certain amount of back pressure. If i'm understanding correct, it sounds like the shop said it belched out a black smoke cloud? Was it internal rust / corrosion in the system somewhere that was expelled in one blast or is the problem sustained? An obstruction in the system somewhere could create a problem where it won't rev or run right. (the ole banana in the tail pipe) These engines can develop popping and backfires too, due to unburnt fuel entering the exhaust. I don't think it has caused any harm to the engine itself.

The question is, is it drivable at all? You may need to make a trip out to see the car in person and make a determination. Most stock exhaust system parts are NLA from Mazda and can be hard to find, 2nd hand now a days. A Racing Beat header / exhaust system is the best way to replace the whole system at once. These are around $1,200.00 and I think are back ordered several months. Unfortunately things can and do fail on old cars at a moments notice. Usually at inopportune times.

 

Just read your posts from earlier. The fuel level sender failure is typically a bad ground. The senders rarely go bad especially at 63K miles. Sounds the shop has no rotary experience. I don't understand what is meant by "seals replaced" but I would get it out of that shop asap.

 

It went there on a recommendation and the shop's name is Derry Rotary. Problem? Well, it's on a rotary as it turns out,. but it isn't a shop which really work on them. , but the techs indicated that they had replaced seals before on these cars. They are just so godawful communicating anything. If anyone can recommend a competent shop in New Hampshire, I'm all ears and I would have it put on a flatbed right off.
It did indeed backfire a little when it was really cold changing gears and the engine was revved modestly but it stopped as soon as it was a bit warmed up. I don't know much more than what I've written at this point.

Also, the racing beat header site is really great! Thank You!

 

No additional advice here from me, since you seem to be on a path to get her running. Just encouragement! Have an 80, now with 110K miles on original drivetrain. Owned since '01. Respect for an old Dude jumping into what was (at the time) a young man's ride. Am 67 myself, so I get the draw
These are basically a Time Machine, and damned if it isn't 1980 every time I drive mine!
Am at the mercy here on the Unwashed, as far as mechanics-who-know-rotaries go, in N. Arizona. I do all the basic stuff myself, and - as you may have figured out - these are delightfully simple machines to work on. As others note, the problem is finding someone you can do the "rotary" stuff as opposed to the basic-to-all-cars mechanicals. And, yeah, spare parts...

I have collected some 16GB (!!) of how-2 info/files/articles on servicing the SA (79-80) RX7. If want to PM me (Private Message me), am happy to arrange getting you a copy via snail mail. Too big for inter-nyet transfer
Useful stuff that covers most everything in the car, as detailed by many owners here on the Forum over the years, as well as other sources, articles...,

Stu A
80GS
AZ

 

Well, like in some strange pregnancy, I am getting the car back tomorrow in the morning. It's about 100 miles from here and so my sweetie and I will drive down and get it. It took a full set of seals, had the engine compartment totally cleaned repainted blah blah blah. It was left outside sadly, and I couldn't get it back since the engine was no longer in the car but once it went in, it had back pressure problems in the exhaust. I suggested that maybe something crawled up in there and died which turned out to be the case. Since it has 63K miles on it, I felt that a new muffler was a good plan but that I would pay for the part, not the labor and they agreed. It has had a new distributor cap, new wires, new plugs and a rebuild on the carb. I had already put in new hoses and a water pump. It will need new tires since the Pirellis on it have some rot. Then the aftermarket AC gets a new breath of coolant and the seats need some upholstery work . I shudder to see how it looks being out for the nine months especially after being in heated humidity control for over forty years while stored.

So, big day tomorrow and I hope it is running as nice as I'm being told. I loved doing this stuff myself when I was young but older age has a way of making it hard.
I'll be back here pretty soon.

 

I'm hung up on the "seals" too. There are 2 coolant o-rings in the intake manifold that are easy to access, but the other "seals" require an engine rebuild. What seals are they, and the previous owner, and you, talking about replacing?

 

I know we're all pulling for him and hopeful to hear his next post about the drive home.

Maybe relating how much the shop charged for "Seal Replacement" would tell us a few things, but the OP could also go through the statement of work and we could figure out the rest. Fingers crossed it was an uneventful 100mi drive back home, and that it's back in a heated garage...

 

The engine was pulled and all seals were replaced along with the oil metering hoses. The engine compartment was totally cleaned, the muffler replaced, dist cap, wires and plugs. The quote was consistent from the beginning within $100.00. They drove it about 20 miles to make sure it was fine, which, who knows?
I'll pick it up this afternoon and it's 100 miles to home.
In some ways, the delay may have been for the best since they salt the roads heavily here and if I had gotten it back in a timely fashion, I know I would have wanted to drive it around. That;s the only positive spin i can put on that. The other is that we had to throw out a bunch of stuff in the glass shop to make room for it and that really needed doing. Now, assuming it drives home fine comes the great detailing job.
I thank this board for putting me on to the oil metering hoses and where to buy them. Now comes the final question. At 71 years old with arthritis, can I get back out of the car when I stop?

 

well, "I'm back" as Frodo said. I'm going out to dinner in it right now but I will go into detail later. Minor issues, all solvable and a happy camper at this point.

 

Good to read. Awaiting further details

 

It has a few issues, but none are debilitating. I ran it up here between 55-70 miles an hour for the most part. I shifted gears frequently . If I had the RPM's high and suddenly dropped down, I do get a bit of popping that stops quickly. If I ease it down, there are no issues there. The fuel is 3/4 of a year old. I'm actually not clear on what fuel it should take, it's been in my hands such a short period of time. I added four gallons of regular yesterday.
The oil leak is fixed, the engine compartment looks great and it seems to run fine. I need to lube the hood release joints since they are sticking on one side. Today is more of a day cleaning it up with a toothbrush in some spots. But it slept last night in a heated garage. The mechanic said that a four barrel carb would do it some good but for now , I've spent as much as the treasury is going to allow. Tires are next and the Pirellis on it have some rot so they need to go. I have yet to look around for 13 inch tires. Then, the AC will get recharged and the upholstery redone if not replacing the seats outright. I've seem some nice photos here of different ways to do it. Really nice for 63K on the odometer and again, the clock still works.

All in all, having it gone all winter may have been a blessing in disguise. If it had been done promptly, I would have insisted on driving it and they salt the roads heavily here. I'm looking for the silver lining here. I won't take it back there though. Hopefully, any tweaking it needs can be done by me.

 

Congrats on making it home in one piece. Good luck with the tire hunt. In the last few years, most manufacturers have stopped making 13" tires. The options are quite limited, but i refuse to give up my OEM wheels.

Post up some pictures of your car too. Always happy to see another one on the road.

 

Glad you have it back again and running good. Regular gas is fine, I avoid Ethanol and premium isn't really required. BF Goodrich makes a 13" RWL tire that is period correct. They usually start appearing in the spring and supplies dry up around fall. https://www.ebay.com/itm/20391266750...2Cchnl%3Dmkcid

Your stock Nikki carb is a good carb, I wouldn't change it or remove the emissions (rats nest).

 

All the advice is greatly appreciated. I have a lot to learn. The tires on it now, racing Pirellis from God knows when in time are getting some rot and even though the tread is good, I am suspicious regarding the sidewalls. I would be happy with the replacement you suggest. It's not like I'm trying to race the car. It's beautiful in its own right and the condition overall is breathtaking. The windshield looks brand new, I've mentioned the clock. It will need the upholstering and AC which I hope is not a major fix. My wife wants me to make it dog approachable which I am disinclined to do. Big Bernese Mt Dog and grumpy old owner.. Since she is a dog drugged by open windows, it will never work out. She already has the Subaru.

But right now, it's napping in a heated building. It's time to begin cleaning and then I'll run out photos. I have been wondering about getting touch up paint for the tiny chips here and there. It's that Electric red they made back then.

 

KUMHO makes Standard Touring All-Season tires. Nothing special .. except they will fit our standard wheels.

• KUMHO SOLUS TZ11 - 175/70-13
• KUMHO SOLUS TZ11 - 185/70-13

TOYO has some 13-inch tires as well.

• TOYO PROXES R888R - 185/60-13
• TOYO PROXES R888R - 205/60-13
• TOYO PROXES R888R - 225/45-13
• TOYO PROXES RR - 205/60-13 (Racetrack & Autocross Only)

 

Ah - SUNrise Red? A Fav...(maybe due to mine being the same). Or the one-off renaissance Red that some Limited SA specials had.
Tires:
I run the Vredsteins, on a 205/13-60 profile. Pop right on no clearance or rim issues. Also avai in original 185 profile too. Tirerack sells. Not noteably cheap, but nice running tire for your next 10 yrs of ownership.
Paint protection. If the paint on the nose is in fine shape, mine benefitted mightily from a 3M wrap (nose panel, lights panels, bumper, under panels and spoiler). Completely invisible. 2 Alaska trips and still as new, with paint under unmarked.

Great advice earlier about gas. Rotaries will run just about on kerosene. Word of advice if you are only planning occasional /seasonal drives - for at least winter storage, throw a full can of Seafoam™ into the tank for the last fill. Great gas preservative PLUS also a great engine de-carbonizer. I run 2 cans a year, but I have the benefit here of a year-round driving season...

Yeah at 71 entry/exit will decide ownership life
Keep fit and enjoy your Time Machine!

Stu A @ 67
80GS
AZ

 

This was the first car of a brother of a friend of ours here in NH back in '79. Alex drove it for a while and it needed a new right fender from over zealosement back in the early days. Then. it went into the "cah" barn here with John's A-Z alphabet collection and sat up there all that time- heated temp controlled, humidity controlled. It went no where. Alex was killed in a skiing accident five years back and gradually his dad recognized that it was time to sell the collection. Cars from A-z with a remarkable group of Acee's which I loved. The property was really being pushed to closure and the RX 7 was not part of the auction which included a '34 Cadillac that was remarkable. So, it came down to two days out and it had to go. I would not pay more than 8K but it wound up in our care without details. The oil leak was a real threat and the rebuild has solved it. It still has minor issues that can all be solved. It's going nowhere for now. I'd like to drive it up to Canada in the Spring and cross the US. Will it work out? who knows? You folks sure are a help.
It sure is beautiful.

 

Great back story. Nice to have some sense of the history of a car.
Plse post some pics of the whole car once she is back on the road.
"I'd like to drive it up to Canada in the Spring and cross the US. Will it work out? who knows?"
DO IT!
I bought my SA in 01 out of San Diego. (64K miles on her) Drove it home, all the way to Fairbanks, Alaska in a spectacular Fall trip. My only problem was 3 days in, the starter failed. So for the last 5 days on the road, I made sure to park her on a slight incline each nite. Next day, rolling start, dropped into 2nd with ignition ON- and I was off!
"It was only 20 yrs old then" you say?
Well, in 2017, we moved to Sedona, AZ. I drove the RX7 DOWN from Alaska. Now with over 100K miles on her (and still original 12a). Never missed a beat. God, what a great trip. Since then I have attended 7Stock in'18 (last one held. Here's hoping for 2022!), a 1500 mile round-trip. So YEAH. These do not have to local/doodle-around play things.
With the new motor you are about as close to a new RX7 as you can get. A Nation of incredible roads and places awaits
Stu A
80GS
CA > Ak > AZ

 

So, I really tried looking around to not duplicate a prior thread and just could not find it , so please direct me to where this may or may not help:

The engine interior looks gorgeous except for the air filter cover which is corroded for a variety of reasons and really clashes with the other work under the hood, SO. I want it to match the existing blue MAZDA used with the issue of the overlay ( what appears to be ) Vinyl in white. . The engine was painted in what I think was actually a Ford Blue but I'm not at all sure. The air cleaner is whatever it is and I do want to match that, The top of the cleaner is scuzzed up and needs repainting and the lettering for Mazda is standing proud of that paint, SO a technology for making those letters in the original now exists and I want to know if I'm wasting my time.
I have taken photos of the lettering and can program them into a machine which will cut them in billboard vinyl exactly like the original. I've yet to determine the paint but I think I have the hard part done.!

Am I wasting my time? l

 

Hey Pete,

Have you considered posting an ad in The NEW RX7 Marketplace for a used air cleaner cover that's in better condition than yours?

I might have an extra one in my garage.

 

Not.At.All! Minty air cleaner (I state the Obvious) is the center-piece of a blingy eng. comp.
There IS (was) an air cleaner decal set offered by a chap in Australia (I know, I have it). Still? Not sure, mine bought some years ago. But you sound like you have found a solution? (one you might want to offer up to other SA owners with aging cleaners!)
As to the blue, would think any good body shop can paint-to-sample -perhaps using the INside as a color guide, where it is fresher.

Stu A
80GS
AZ

 

Nice air cleaners are still out there, like others have said, you just have to dig a little. An ad here or search eBay and Craig's list. If you want to restore yours, the color is actually one Mazda used on some of its cars. Impulse Blue (code AY) Color Codes - Mazda Paint Cross-Reference

There also is an old thread by a senior member here, who unfortunately doesn't post much anymore. He copied the text and silk screened it back on. You could also use the same technique to have it reproduced in vinyl materials. (stickers) You can find pictures and more information of what DD did on pages 23-24 of his excellent old thread.

https://www.rx7club.com/build-thread...770184/page23/

 

I have an S3 air cleaner in excellent condition, but it doesn't have the charcoal can like the early cars use.

 

Yea, the SA's have unique air cleaners. 81 and later are different.