I have the 6 inch springs in the front. But I agree, I should have went with the race setup too. Much more range of adjustment. I was lazy and didn't want to have to get anything welded. Still have the option to upgrade if I have to.

I could get another half inch lower if I tried. Again, should have went with the race setup.

NO. The suppliers for the glass shop where I was gonna get the windshield no longer stock this model. So I still have to find a windshield. But I wouldn't be able to make it anyway, too much stuff going on.

 

I know this is a lil late but i thought I would just quote on this. A slightly better way to take apart the strut is to leave the mount bolted to the tower. If you set a jack under the tire/control arm/strut itself while it is still in the car and apply some pressure to it you can saftly remove the nut that holds the sping onto the strut and then lower the jack to release the pressure slowly. I have found that this method works better, and is safer than the bolt type spring comressor that most people can afford.

 

Not sure I understand where the race setup would be any different for you. The stance of the car - how low you have it set - is the only thing that will determine suspension travel left over for bump. We do not recommend that short of a spring. we recommend a 7" spring with up to 250# rate. The only reason you would need that short of a spring would be if you are running higher than 250# spring rate. Unless you are lowering the car a huge amount.

You can trim a bit of the highest part of the stock spring perch without loosing the integrity. This can gain 1/4" to 1/2" more adjustment. Just stay above where it radiuses to meet the strut tube.


The Street/Race setup was done just for that. so the customer could bolt on and go. There are limitations to that but if you stay within the 7" x 250# rate then the amount of adjustment is just enough needed and you gain the benefits of corner weighting and spring rate choice.

There are only two parts needed to convert from street to race. We would be happy to supply them if you need them.


-billy

 

Billy, thanks for the input and for the wonderful products.

I don't really think I need to go any lower, but thanks for the tip.

Do you think I'll have any problems with the 6"x300# springs on the street setup?

Oh yeah, somehow you sent me the weld-on perches also with the street coilovers. Took me forever to figure out what they were, haha. So If ever upgrade, all I'll need is the sleeves.

 

If the car sits at the ride height you like and you are not bottomed out on the collar then the length and spring rate will be fine.

-billy

 

Any tips for getting the old ball joints out and the new ones in? I'm working on my front suspension now and wondered if you had any helpful advice for me. I'd like to do it myself if possible, but if it's easer to just take it to a machine shop I can do that too...

 

Yes. Kinda hard to explain, and pretty sure it will work for our cars.

Firstly, you can rent universal ball joint pullers but DONT. They are universal, thus crap and you will just wreck the boot.

Easiest with 2 people but you can manage with 1.

Take 2 large hammers, hit both sides of it at the SAME time, hard. Harmonic vibrations or some crap will loosen it. If you have 2 people, get the second person to be prying down on the control arm or watever it is in (just a bit of pressure) while you hit and loosen and it *should* pop out.

As i said ive never done it on an rx7(but many other different kinds of cars both imports and a few domestics) but i am assuming the process will work.

This process was told to me by my old mechanic (so it has a bit more credibility then just me)

If everything is out of the car then idno which i have a feeling it is if you could take it to a shop

 

I would go to a machine shop and get it pressed out.

 

i used a ball joint press.looks like a c clamp. i cut a round block of wood little wider then the ball joint, with a hole in the center. i placed the threaded stud of the ball joint in the hole, and used one of the rund tubes on the back side. then pressed it out.the last bit you need to hit the stud with a hammer to pop it out. then i was able to use the rest of the universal ball joint press kit to press the new ones in. i dont know the brand of the ball joint press is, i got it from a uncle for the weekend.

 

So which way do the ball joints come out? I'm assuming that you press them out the bottom of the control arm? This would mean that the threaded stud with the castle nut would be the LAST portion of the ball joint to leave the control arm. Is that correct?

Jamie

 

Correct. I used a ball joint press by the way.

 

The C-clamp style with the small pipe pieces like you can borrow from Autozone?

 

Yes. Something like this http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=38335
I also used an impact wrench with it for good measure.

You've got some catching up to do Hammy.

 

Realize this is from like 2 weeks ago.

I have NEVER had any luck with those universal kits you can borrow from places like autozone. Mechanic told me the method posted like 4 or 5 up, and it works.

Bringing them somewhere to get pressed is a waste of time and effort when its just as easy to do yourself IMO.

 

I rented the ball joint press from Autozone and it worked like a charm. Pressed the old ones out and the new ones in. No questions asked. However, I did thoroughly soak them in penetrating oil for 2-3 days before trying anything. I've heard horror stories of people ruining control arms when they were trying to remove the ball joints. I didn't want that to happen to me. Nevertheless, I would recommend the ball joint press from Autozone if anyone was wondering...