13BTOY

iTrader: (1)

I cant post my pics on here so heres a link.

https://www.rx7club.com/canadian-forum-42/members-turbo-fb-setup-542577/

Let me know what you guys think.

Thanks, Ed

$100T2

iTrader: (1)

You need an intercooler my brotha. Other than that, clean, nice, beautiful. How does it drive?

1985GSL

iTrader: (4)

That is really cool but i dont fully understand it. What are the advantages over FI? is it possible to do it with a top mount holley? Guess of HP?

13BTOY

iTrader: (1)

I just started it today for the first time(fresh rebuild) that motor has no street time yet. It was getting late so I'll continue the break in idle tomorrow for another hour while I play with the carb. It will get intercooled once its running right and broken in. I'm thinking water injection.

Thanks, Ed

blwfly

iTrader: (4)

is that a t2 turbo?

13BTOY

iTrader: (1)

Series 4 to be exact.

Thanks, Ed

steve84GS TII

Nice.
With the fuel dumping out way up top,theres plenty of travel time for the evaporating fuel to bring the intake temps back down,before the whole mess gets to the combustion chambers.
Port EFI keeps everything dry until just before entering the ports,stock TII's do fine and its not like the stock TMIC is worth a damn either!!.......Keep it around 6-8psi and youll be real good,well within the S4 turbo's efficiency range.

Hyper4mance2k

iTrader: (40)

noice. I broke mine in n/a I heard for the first 500 miles you should run it n/a... I ran mine n/a for the first 1300 miles.

REVHED

Why the heck would you do that? It's as simple as keeping it off boost.

mr_ouija

Simple for some, not so simple for others. The temptation for the power is too much for some.
I know I am going to have a hard time staying out of boost in the FD when I rebuild/port it's motor.

Hyper4mance2k

iTrader: (40)

My right foot happens to weigh 400 kilos. So it's not that easy. LOL! I had to.

13BTOY

iTrader: (1)

Haha! I know what you mean. I need to get my carb jetting sorted out first. damn!

Thanks, Ed

Sudox_E

The car looks great. Same BOV I have. Everything is very clean, and simple, something I need to work on

Hyper4mance2k

iTrader: (40)

intercoolers are for pu$$ys. thanks to physics when the air pressure drops corssing the chokes and the fuel atomizes it drops air temps in the neighborhood of 50*F. In the winter I get ice on my intake manifold. It might help o let you also know I run 36mm chokes and they made the world of difference in drive ability over my 40mm once I get the right idle jets in. 65f9. 195 mains 170 aircorrectors and f-11 e-tubes. 55 accel pump jets. I'm going to get way smaller air correctors before I turn up the boost though.

Fennix_sr

i like it, simple ... nice work dude. makes me ponder about this route myself ...

blwfly

iTrader: (4)

[QUOTE=Hyper4mance2k]intercoolers are for pu$$ys. thanks to physics when the air pressure drops corssing the chokes and the fuel atomizes it drops air temps in the neighborhood of 50*F. In the winter I get ice on my intake manifold. It might help o let you also know I run 36mm chokes and they made the world of difference in drive ability over my 40mm once I get the right idle jets in. 65f9. 195 mains 170 aircorrectors and f-11 e-tubes. 55 accel pump jets. I'm going to get way smaller air correctors before I turn up the boost though.
QUOTE]


where did ya get the oil filler neck?
im guessing thats the t2 setup?

Sudox_E

I'm pretty sure that's the stock t2 oil filler neck. Wish I had one of those on my car! I had to hack mine up to make room for the carb hat

13BTOY

iTrader: (1)

If I rememeber correctly he's running a TII motor. Hey bro correct me if I'm wrong.
Anyways, heres my current jetting.
Weber 48 DCO, 42 chokes, F11 tube, 55 accel, 150 ac, 200 main and 65f8 idle. It ildes nice but when I get on the pedal to quick it falls on its face and backfires. I put a 70-75 and cured the backfire and stumble but it did not want to idle. It was overly rich. I'm looking to get some 65f9s. Come on Weber gurus what do you think?

Thanks, Ed
BTW thanks for the compliments!

Siraniko

iTrader: (13)

buckling at mid-rpm (when primary kick in) is usually caused by too large of venturies and/or insufficient fuel. So I would start with smaller venturies then work your way up and at the same time, adjsut the float.

13BTOY

iTrader: (1)

Mel, 38 chokes maybe? I have 42's in there now. Wheres the best place to get parts for a weber?

Thanks, Ed

Siraniko

iTrader: (13)

Use the 38, then play with jets. Once you feel that its going nowhere at top end, then work your way up. Thats one of the advantage of a weber or similar carbs over holleys and nikkis. Easy to change jets and venturies.

13BTOY

iTrader: (1)

Gotta find some 38's then. I also just realized that I have 45 accel pump jets in there. For some reason I thought I had 55's.

Thanks, Ed

Hyper4mance2k

iTrader: (40)

Your problem is 100% your idle jets. I had 70f8's in my car when it was n/a and it did the same thing. F8 jets are way too much air!!! You need 65 or 70F9's it's all about f9's.

13BTOY

iTrader: (1)

Gotcha! Thats also on my list.

Thanks, Ed

saltyslug

updates???

hey 13b I got your same setup just about. mine is a 48 dco with 42mm chokes. robert said the 42's should work ok on my 12a. mine idles fine but is really rich. I got all my fuel pressure issues figured out.

I will pull my jets out and let you know what I got also. I seem to have misplaced my paper with them. mine starts going lean when I get on it 2500+ rpm. I need to get the timing figured out to be sure I don't detonate and kill this monster.