I'd say ~ a quart

 

Yes, my setup came from a 79. Im not sure why its goofy. Of course, then again, my oil filter neck is different than most others I see. I have no problems with just locating different bolts, or just drilling and tapping. .

~T.J.

 

Thats it!! 79-80 is diff. Let me know if I can do anything!! Sorry about that!!!!

Steve

 

Hey, thats ok. Il just drill and tap mine . Maybe just offer different kits for the different years so everyone is happy .

~T.J.

 

Oh yeah, and I had a question. Do you see any reason why I couldnt use the large output port on this block as a turbo feed line later if I build a custom 12A turbo? I know that I would use -AN lines again, and its easy enough to get the adapters to go from the pipe threads to the -AN fittings. Anyway, I dont know why it wouldnt work, I just wanted to know .

~T.J.

 

For a turbo oil feed I would think, 1) you want to tap in where there is good oil pressure and 2) you want to tap in where the oil has been cooled. Not sure if that's the right place to tap in but these are my thoughts on the subject.

 

Yes. This is where 95% of Turbo N/A's get their oil feed from.

 

Nifty. Thanks .

~T.J.

 

Sorry for the delay.....sometimes it is a while between setting on the computer. Anyway looks like you got the answers. That is a perfect place for the turbo supply.

Oh yah, I am going to offer the 79-80 set up....easy enough Just have to be sure I find out the year of the customers car.....right...hehehe

Steve

 

I'm pretty sure you can't drill and tap it, if you do it won't work the way you think it will. Here is why... When you take your water/oil setup off you will find that there are M8 threads already in the rear plate. How are you going to screw the filter head on if you have the studs in the rear plate?? You're going to have to use the smaller diameter studs if the block is already taped for M8 so you can thread the small studs into your filter head then put it in like it was stock. The only way i can see it working if you drilled/tapped the filter head is if you were to drill out the M8 threads on the engine so the studs were to slide through and put a nut on the other side. Did I confuse you, damn near confused myself

 

Ok...Let me get this straight.

The 79 I took this off of has the two studs coming off the filter neck, then they go through the flange on the rear plate with nuts on the bbottom.

Are you saying that my car (82-83 water/oil cooler) will have the studs in the flange on the rear plate and the oil filter neck sildes over them? How would that work? How would you tighten down the filter neck?

****, now Im really confused. Pictures please? I just assumed that the rear flanges on the rear plates were all the same (IE - Studs come down through whatever is on top, and then nuts on the back), and they just changed whatever was on top of this flange. All the more reason to just stop this project now .

~T.J.

 

setzep is right. Get the right studs and save yourself the headache and possibility of messing this up. Ask Steve to send you the smaller studs.

 

Just get me the dimmensions of the studs....total length, thread size, length of threads on both ends and solid area. I will get them sent right out to you......I am going to get a box of them and the nuts anyway. This will help me out in knowing the correct size!!

Steve

 

I wont know until I get apart, and if I take it apart, I cant keep it apart . So if I take it apart I have to be able to turn around and get it back together again, not wait for more parts .

~T.J.

 

First off I'm assuming you meant 83-85 not 82-83.... right?

The water/oil cooler mounts to the engine flange the same way your 79 filter head does (with the studs screwed into the cooler or filter head then nuts on the back side). I just made sure on a 83 12a I have in my garage.

Mazda drilled/tapped the engine flange to M8 threads, why I don't know. Maybe they had a different oil filter setup way back in the day. But anyways this is why you have to just get longer studs that screw into your filter head (think they are M6?) so you can slide the studs though the flange and put nuts on the other side to bolt it all together.

I'd take a picture but the battery is be charged right now for the camera but I think you should know what I mean by now anyways.

 

Nope, sorry I dont. Im a visual learner.

Are you saying that the flange on the engine is drilled and tapped but theyre not used? The studs just slide through the holes without screwing in and then there are nuts on the back side?

If thats the deal, why cant i just drill those out bigger too? I dont think y'all understand this, but iI have NO money at all. So I cant buy new bolts or studs anymore, I spent my last $20 on gas. If I take it apart to find out the size, I need to be able to put it back together again immediatly so I can drive it the next day. This was going to happen over a weekend in case of stuff like this, but I dont know if Im even still going to do it until I get more money to do it right.

~T.J.

 

I am signing off right now till morning but are you saying that I can get the same length just get the M6 and nut to match??

T.J, dont take it apart, I will run over to RX7.com and find out from them tomorrow for sure.

Sorry about the troubles!!

I am going to send you a little something to try to help make up for it

Steve

 

For all you viewers at home, Steve called me personally tonight and appologized about the whole situation. I understand perfectly and its not really all that big of a deal, just a minor inconvienance I didnt expect. He told me hes gonna go talk to the people at RX7.com and find out for sure what I need, and then hes gonna sen me the stuff so I can work on this . He seems like a great guy, and very helpful .

~T.J.

 

WTG Steve!!!!!!!! When Im not spending $ on new race tires LOL, I want the CF hood!!!!!!!!

 

Once I can afford one, its mine too. I promised him Id buy one, and I plan on it . I really want one with a T2 scoop though, but a stock one would be PERFECT too .

~T.J.

 

Thats exactly what I'm saying

 

Ok . Well I think my troubles will soon be solved because Steve is taking care of it for me . Once again, way to go Steve, youre a real stand up guy .

~T.J.

 

Found the M6x 50mm studs and locking nuts this morning. I am leaving in a second to go over to RX7.com to make sure this is the resolution to the problem then go pick up the studs. I have to buy 50pcs., maybe I will sell them all...hehe.

TJ, I will probably stick them in the mail to you priority or something to get them there by the weekend. I will call you if I have any problems. Also, I will PM you with my cell # since I will be out of town the next 5 days.

Steve

 

Heres an update for those who care.

The good news: Steve sent me the right bolts and nylon locking nuts for my setup, they look to be PERFECT. He also sent me a hat, two "RotaryAutosports.com" stickers, and two rotor stickers. What a guy .

The bad news: I started my car today and noticed a little stream coming out form under it while my door was open. The stream was black. About the time I put two and two together, the low oil dinger went into overdrive. I shut her down right away. I got out and looked under the hood, and theres oil all over the front of my engine under the pulleys, all over the motor mounts on the chasis, just everywhere. I couldnt find a leak though. I put a quart of oil in and watched. Nothing. So I figured, at least its got a little over a quart in there. I started it up briefly and soon found the problem. Oil seems to be coming from the fitting on the front cover and then moving down the hard oil line and dripping of at a particularly fast rate.


So, I dont know what to do now. Since my Dads house is over an hour away, Im not driving it there, but I cant work on it here. So, Im stuck. I have all the parts ready to go (good thing I started this eh?), just no place to work on it .

~T.J.

EDIT: I think she did this because she knew I was looking at a 1987 Toyota 4x4 that was for sale locally. She was getting jealous and knew I was going to stop driving her for a while . It happened right before I went to go test drive the truck (which turned out to be a pile of **** mechanically, despite the BEAUTIFUL interior and exterior). So no truck OR car for me now .

 

Again WTG Steve!

Awwwwwww TJ....wtf???? Did you try removing the fitting and putting in a new crush washer? Hey and did you get my last PM I sent ?