inittab

put the top panel back on the existing shroud and I think it'll be fine. Oh and if you still have that bottom metal protector panel thing I'd put that back on too.

RotorMotorDriver

iTrader: (1)

Well yeah Im gonna do that, I only have them off cause Im working on the car. So you think Ill be ok then?

~T.J.

inittab

no worries

GatorRX

Hey, if I'm seeing this right, there is NO way that you are going to move enough oil through those tiny openings in that block to adequately cool your motor. Just my opinion. Why aren't you just running the cooler lines into the block and front cover, like everyone else does?

I didn't read where you mentioned or didn't mention a few things:

What diameter hoses are you using?
What is the size of the ports in the filter block?
What sizes are the adapters?

Without knowing this, I think what you are doing LOOKS like a bad idea, those bypass blocks are made for adding guages and maybe a remote oil filter, not oil coolers. But I might be incorrect in my opinion there if the answers to these questions proves me wrong... Better safe than sorry!

As far as drilling and tapping the holes in the pedestal, go check the pedestal from a second gen in a junkyard, that might be what the block was originally made for....

RotorMotorDriver

iTrader: (1)

Oh yeah, and I think I came up with a solution to the problem I had discovered in THIS thread. The only thing Im worried about is this...Since the block is aluminum, will the sender still be able to ground through it as well as the cast iron it used to be in as long as the teflon tape doesnt insulate it? I know that this is what the block is used for, but Im just double checking .

~T.J.

RotorMotorDriver

iTrader: (1)

The bypass block is used for the gauges . If you read my previous post (and the thread I linked to in it), you will understand why Im using the bypass block .

I am using the stock ports on the block and front cover for the cooler, and Im using -10 AN lines, and I honestly couldnt tell you what sizes the ports are on the block, its just what it came with . Thats a good idea about the 2nd gen filter neck, I may go look into that, thanks!

~T.J.

inittab

Aluminum is a good conductor but anodized aluminum, if I remember correctly, does NOT conduct. You may need to rig up a ground somehow.

RotorMotorDriver

iTrader: (1)

Can anyone confirm this? I have a multimeter but I dont know where right now.

~T.J.

inittab

A quick google search came up with this white paper entitled "Anodized Aluminum Alloys Insulator or Not"

http://www.uic.com/wcms/Images.nsf/(GraphicLib)/AnodizedAluminumAlloys.pdf/$file/AnodizedAluminumAlloys.pdf

I didn't read the whole thing but under the conclusions at the end it reads:

"Anodized aluminum if not used properly can cause severe and expensive problems in the EMC area. If anodized aluminum is being used in applications such as chassis or mounting plates where typically a low impedance mechanical ground is required, additional grounding devices or conductive assembly surfaces will be required."

RotorMotorDriver

iTrader: (1)

Oh boy . So do aftermarket gauges require grounds like the stock ones do for their senders? I also had a sort of "falling out" today too. I was under my car and messing around with trying to get this cooler mounted and it occured to me that with where it is now I will have no way to fit any sort of rubber shock protection device in there now. Just in general its a tight fit. In a way that makes me happy cause it wont fall out (), but in another way, I know that stress causes cracks and fractures. It needs to be firmly in place, yet not rigid (what it is now). So after thinking about it, Im just gonna put a mojor hold on this project until I can get it done right. I just forsee me going through with this and then having the damn thing crack causing a bigger leak than what I started with. So, the mounts for the cooler coupled with the fact that I cant use the stock oil PSI sender with the block (which is the whole reason I bought it) have both made me want to just stop and think about this. I know I could search (and I will) but do any of you have any pictures or ideas of how to mount my cooler?

~T.J.

Rx7carl

Yea and the teflon tape will insulate it too. Youll have to give a good ground somehow.

Just solder a wire onto the op sender case. Then run it to a good ground.

Rx7carl

TJ, why not get a piece of flat rubber sheet (like old inner tubes) and sandwhich it at your mount points (between the cooler and mount). It shouldnt interfere with anything and will allow some movement and absorb shock loads fine.

Rx7carl

Oh and since you have the provisions already on the block, add an oil temp gauge so you know if you have any problems b4 you roach a motor. I use water temp gauges, cheap ones from local auto parts place. they work fine. I prefer mechanical gauges but you can use the elec ones.

RotorMotorDriver

iTrader: (1)

No room. With where the mounts are on the shrouds, and where the cooler is, the cooler cant go down because of that thick bar, and it cant go up unless I make the brakets different. If I make the brackets different, I might as well save up the money and get something different/better made.

~T.J.

PS - Does anyone know if after-market electrical gauge senders need to ground like the stock sender unit? If so, how are ANY gagues I buy supposed to work on that block!?!?

Rx7carl

So put the rubber between the shround and you mount. Youll have to bend it inwards a little thats all. Will that work?

Mechanical gauges will work fine with that block.
Seriously, just do this. remove the anodizing in the threads with steel wool or scotch brtie pad. Then remove some at the bottom side of the block so it has good metal to metal contact with the engine housing. Or run a ground wire from the block to the engine. DOnt over do it with the teflon tape. Leave the first few threads bare so they make good contact.

GatorRX

Yeah, I didn't really think this through before I posted it, kind of stupid on my part.

RotorMotorDriver

iTrader: (1)

That MIGHT work...But what about the cooler itself warming and cooling? Wont the expanding and contracting cause problems since its rigid mounted to those tabs and cant really do much?
I know that...lol .
Does the anodizing really just come off like that? I had though about that, but I wasnt sure how the whole anodizing process worked.
I remember that someone told me about that trick with the teflon tape so that the gauge senders will still work, and it also reduces the risk of getting tape in the end of the sender .

Ok, so I might go look into putting some rubber between then mounts and the shrouds. I was thinking of some heater hose with holes drilled through it and then bolted in there...Would that be good enough? I need to buy some new hose to make my heater hoses after I take the water/oil cooler out anyway.

~T.J.

RotorMotorDriver

iTrader: (1)

Haha, thats ok man . Somehow I figured you didnt truly think about it as I was sure that if you had yo wouldve understood it . Then again, at the beginning I shouldve put a "summary" of sorts to explain what exactly my oil cooler swap was, lol.

~T.J.

RotorMotorDriver

iTrader: (1)

By the way, I went and looked, but all the 2nd gens I found didnt have engines .

~T.J.

fatboy7

It may not look the best, but you could mount the cooler offset (ie one side further forward than the other) that would buy you a little more room in that location, and allow for a proper mounting.

Rx7carl

I think SOME shock mount is better than nothing. Only time will tell if its enough. In other words its not a question that can be answered with certainty. DO the best you can, and find a spare cooler and have it ready just in case. Not a bad idea anyway since you never know what might happen.

Annodizing is a surface treating process in which chemicals are applied causing the alum to oxidize (rust) which forms a protective layer to keep further oxidation from occuring. It is easily removed by mechanical methods.

1st7heaven

I havent read the whole thread but the teflon wont insulate......when the threads tighten, the metals touch...the teflon just extrudes to the "voids" were the threads dont touch. Also, we have been using this same set up for.......oh.....16years and no problems!!

TJ, what year was your car?? My set up didnt require any rethreading?? Is yours a 79-80??

Steve

inittab

Bottom line is to thread it up and check that you have good ground with a multi-meter and if the ground is inadequate just run a grounding strap somehow.

1st7heaven

That would solve any concerns that you might have.

Pele

iTrader: (28)

How much does it add to your oil capacity, converting from Water-Oil cooler to Air-Oil Cooler?