My GSL SE has oil dripping from the rear differential
02-13-14, 10:18 AM
#26
I use a local repair garage for those fixes I don't have the time for or the equipment. I burned the pilot bearing in the 84 FB. Yes, I've taken out transmission on a 74 RX3, but did not have the time for this job. There is nothing particular about replacing the parts. The shop did it in a morning, I supplied all the parts. Told them I had the Hanes book, they said leave it on the front seat.
It gets down to dollars vs. time. I wanted the car back on the road and the cost was acceptable.
It gets down to dollars vs. time. I wanted the car back on the road and the cost was acceptable.
02-14-14, 01:18 AM
#27
84SE-EGI helpy-helperton
My pilot bearing grenaded about 25k mi ago just after I did the clutch. It started to get louder and louder, and then suddenly got completely silent!
Apparently, the pilot bearing in the flywheel to guide the trans input shaft is there to reduce vibration, but I had more issues with noise and vibration when it was failing than running without.
I'll eventually put another one in with my engine swap - but the pertinent point here to the OP is to handle the maintenance when/how you have time/$. A rear end rebuild is a costly repair compared to re-sealing the pumpkin and checking the fluids regularly.
Apparently, the pilot bearing in the flywheel to guide the trans input shaft is there to reduce vibration, but I had more issues with noise and vibration when it was failing than running without.
I'll eventually put another one in with my engine swap - but the pertinent point here to the OP is to handle the maintenance when/how you have time/$. A rear end rebuild is a costly repair compared to re-sealing the pumpkin and checking the fluids regularly.
02-14-14, 07:22 PM
#28
This thread is of interest as I noticed a little seepage on mine. But its only around the fill and drain plugs.
If I had the leakage in the pictures I would either fill it up and get it somewhere quick, or figure out how to fix it myself.
I've blown rear axle seals on our E-150 van by crushing the wheel bearing. Once I found it in time when checking the rear brakes. The other time was on I-70 in PA going into Pittsburg on vacation. Found a Ford dealer 20 mile away, filled it up & stopped every 5 miles to check it till I got to the dealer. An axle and bearing and seal is one thing. The complete rear-end is another.
If I had the leakage in the pictures I would either fill it up and get it somewhere quick, or figure out how to fix it myself.
I've blown rear axle seals on our E-150 van by crushing the wheel bearing. Once I found it in time when checking the rear brakes. The other time was on I-70 in PA going into Pittsburg on vacation. Found a Ford dealer 20 mile away, filled it up & stopped every 5 miles to check it till I got to the dealer. An axle and bearing and seal is one thing. The complete rear-end is another.
02-14-14, 10:25 PM
#29
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This thread is of interest as I noticed a little seepage on mine. But its only around the fill and drain plugs.
If I had the leakage in the pictures I would either fill it up and get it somewhere quick, or figure out how to fix it myself.
I've blown rear axle seals on our E-150 van by crushing the wheel bearing. Once I found it in time when checking the rear brakes. The other time was on I-70 in PA going into Pittsburg on vacation. Found a Ford dealer 20 mile away, filled it up & stopped every 5 miles to check it till I got to the dealer. An axle and bearing and seal is one thing. The complete rear-end is another.
If I had the leakage in the pictures I would either fill it up and get it somewhere quick, or figure out how to fix it myself.
I've blown rear axle seals on our E-150 van by crushing the wheel bearing. Once I found it in time when checking the rear brakes. The other time was on I-70 in PA going into Pittsburg on vacation. Found a Ford dealer 20 mile away, filled it up & stopped every 5 miles to check it till I got to the dealer. An axle and bearing and seal is one thing. The complete rear-end is another.
02-15-14, 11:10 PM
#30
84SE-EGI helpy-helperton
Uhhh, that 'front part' you're talking about weighs a ton, because it's not just a housing, it's the ENTIRE assembly that carries the internal bearings, the ring & pinion, the spider gears, the LSD, and is solid steel, filled with gears made of solid steel, and running on bearings made of steel. Please don't think you can drop the driveshaft, unbolt that 'front part', and just pull it out to replace the gasket, because you'll crush yourself under the car!
Plus, you likely won't have enough clearance under there to drop the front of the 3rd member without removing the entire rear axle as one piece, but I'm sure someone here has done exactly that - because we have an amazingly resourceful group of people driving these cars.
Plus, you likely won't have enough clearance under there to drop the front of the 3rd member without removing the entire rear axle as one piece, but I'm sure someone here has done exactly that - because we have an amazingly resourceful group of people driving these cars.
02-16-14, 09:09 AM
#31
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Uhhh, that 'front part' you're talking about weighs a ton, because it's not just a housing, it's the ENTIRE assembly that carries the internal bearings, the ring & pinion, the spider gears, the LSD, and is solid steel, filled with gears made of solid steel, and running on bearings made of steel. Please don't think you can drop the driveshaft, unbolt that 'front part', and just pull it out to replace the gasket, because you'll crush yourself under the car!
Plus, you likely won't have enough clearance under there to drop the front of the 3rd member without removing the entire rear axle as one piece, but I'm sure someone here has done exactly that - because we have an amazingly resourceful group of people driving these cars.
Plus, you likely won't have enough clearance under there to drop the front of the 3rd member without removing the entire rear axle as one piece, but I'm sure someone here has done exactly that - because we have an amazingly resourceful group of people driving these cars.
02-16-14, 04:19 PM
#32
The bolts that attach the differential carrier "pumpkin" to the axle housing will often loosen over time. I had the same thing happen many years ago. I was planning to do some other work to the rear axle anyway, so I pulled it, cleaned everything, resealed it, and re-installed. I intentionally put RTV on the bolt threads, to help lock them in place.
If you want the best solution, get some studs, install them with high strength Loctite, then use flat washers with nylok nuts.
If you're going to pull the axles, you might consider replacing the bearings and seals. They don't cost much, and the extra labor isn't much if you already have the axles out of the car.
If you want the best solution, get some studs, install them with high strength Loctite, then use flat washers with nylok nuts.
If you're going to pull the axles, you might consider replacing the bearings and seals. They don't cost much, and the extra labor isn't much if you already have the axles out of the car.
02-17-14, 08:12 AM
#33
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I had this happen to mine. I just used a socket and ratchet and tightened each bolt. A couple were really loose. Tightening them solved the problem - I didn't have to take anything apart.
