my first rx7...got some questions
#27
ok well i hooked up everything else one at a time and everything checks out i guess
i have 2 more issues then i hope i'm good lol
one... i found these wires in the back near the rear left speaker
and 2...when i turn the key on...sometimes all my warning lights show up but sometimes only my ebrake and seatbelt light show up...is that normal? thanks
i have 2 more issues then i hope i'm good lol
one... i found these wires in the back near the rear left speaker
and 2...when i turn the key on...sometimes all my warning lights show up but sometimes only my ebrake and seatbelt light show up...is that normal? thanks
i reread your previous post, and it sounds to me like one of the frayed wires you have found was probably tied into the dimmer circuit in someway or another. the fuse popping issue is most certainly a short to ground, and now that you have fixed several frayed wires and are no longer popping fuses, you should be ok to hook up the power mirrors and stuff that you unhooked.
on the warning lights, my 7's warning lights always come on, and then go off leaving 3 illuminated, the oil-l light, brake light, and washer fluid light. those three are on because i havent gotten around to fixing them. i am not sure why the lights would fail to come on, but if the car runs ok and everything works the same when they dont come on as when they do, then i wouldnt worry much about it.a
#28
well i found out something interesting today, i was reassembling my dash panels and apparently the metal plate that the fuse box mounts to is WAY close to the hatch popper and they were grounding out on each other too and blew that fuse! so i tossed the fuse box plate and i'm gonna mount the fuse box on the kickpanel area to the side instead. good lord lol
#29
Rather than relocating that box you could put a piece of rubber between the plate and the switch. Alternative: hot glue on the terminals of the switch will probably stay in place better. Just make sure when it cools that it doesn't move at all or it will just fall of and start shorting again
#30
well i'm just gonna stick with relocating it, thanks tho
as an update i redid my ground cables and cleaned them up a bit, i added a extra ground from the battery to the alternator bracket and moved the starter ground to the top of the engine and moved the strut tower ground to the top of the strut bolt. cleaned each area down to bare metal for a good solid connection.
i cleaned out my combo switch and now everything works (i hope), i just need to add some fuses i'm missing now
i started repairing and repainting my center console, and i guess i might be missing some kinda bracket for the shift boot underneath? cuz theres nothing for the holes in the shift boot to do anything with..random
as an update i redid my ground cables and cleaned them up a bit, i added a extra ground from the battery to the alternator bracket and moved the starter ground to the top of the engine and moved the strut tower ground to the top of the strut bolt. cleaned each area down to bare metal for a good solid connection.
i cleaned out my combo switch and now everything works (i hope), i just need to add some fuses i'm missing now
i started repairing and repainting my center console, and i guess i might be missing some kinda bracket for the shift boot underneath? cuz theres nothing for the holes in the shift boot to do anything with..random
#31
quick question, how does the horn mount back on the steering wheel? it was off when i got the car, i have the red vinyl piece, a push button with some wires, a plastic ring and thats it? i dunno where the wires go or anything, lol
#32
Red vinyl piece? Are we talking a stock wheel? I'm sure my stock wheel just had a metal plate that had a spring behind it and I believe it was held in place with some bolts then the rubber cover just wraps around the plate. Someone correct me if I'm wrong, I haven't seen my stock steering wheel in awhile. I bought an aftermarket one awhile ago but they sent me the wrong bracket so I had to use another wheel I've got and I dropped my stock wheel and the good one off at a machine shop and asked them to fab something up. I should really go see how the progress is goin. But I digress... Lol send some photos of what you've got and we'll see if we can piece it together!
#33
ok so i have another issue now...i replaced all my missing fuses and ran all new speaker wires and now my lights are coming on with key again, so i traced back all my fuses and it won't do that unless the "radio/antenna" fuse is in the box, every other fuse is fine...so now my radio won't work unless i run all new wiring somehow...where should i look for the short or crossed wires so i don't have to rig up new wires?? i don't have a power antenna anymore i don't think. thanks in advance!
#34
ok! update! my wiring mess in the back is FIXED. i got to looking closer and found even more of a cluster!#@@! when i started unraveling the electrical tape. good god! its all fixed, radio and lights work. everything works fine. yessssss now i need a paint job cuz this is what i'm working with lol
Last edited by etizz; 04-01-09 at 08:23 PM.
#37
based on the pictures id say it looks worse than it is. now that the wirings fixed, your halfway there. the body looks pretty straight, id say a good week of bodywork AFTER work and itll be ready to spray.
#39
well i lied, since i had the spare door and fender laying around i put it on...heres the pic
cars coming together slowly but surely. i'm making a double din stereo bracket now so i can finally have my interior in one piece
cars coming together slowly but surely. i'm making a double din stereo bracket now so i can finally have my interior in one piece
#41
lol wow, yeah mine aren't that bad with any curbage, you can't really tell in the pic but they all have clearcoat and everything peeling and looking awful, it would definitely benefit from a nice polish so we'll see how that goes
#42
ive had good success with this style wheels in the past using a bead blasting cabinet to clean them, and clear coat to get the shine back.
#44
#45
I'll tell you what will help better than anything. Try and find a non-running but complete parts car. Maybe one that had been wrecked or has a blown engine. Then you can use it as a reference while you repair your original. I have done this before.
#46
well thanks to the members here its been fixed although now i've discovered that my choke cable does nothing for the carb and therefore will not start until i have messed with the choke manually on the carb, any ideas on that?
#47
seems like that would be a simple issue. ive never had a 12a model so i dont know if the choke pulls out or slides side to side or what, but heres how it approach it. turn the choke completely off from inside the car, get out and look at the carb to take note of the position of the cable. now turn the choke completely on from inside the car. get out and look at the carb to take note of the position. if the choke is moving but is not moving far enough, you may need to adjust the cable. if its not moving at all, you probably need a NEW cable. im assuming the choke DOES work since you said youve been manually engaging it.