Is my engine BYE BYE??
#1
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****ty Tune= Low #'s
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 1,496
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From: Charleston, SC (chucktown!)
Is my engine BYE BYE??
So.. i went out for a drive and as i was about to hit around 6,000RPM my car just acted as though it missed like crazy!! so i was like ohh **** and shifted to 4th and hit the gas when i relized that it was acted as though it was flooding out or only running on one rotor. because for the rest of the way i was full throttle and only going at about 2,000RPM
I pulled into my driveway and took a look at things and the only thing i SEE that is out of place is the acuator that is on the driver side of the carb on the back lower corner...... i have my emissions removed and everything plugged up still but the rod on the left of it not connected to it....
what are some things that i can keep looking for???
I pulled into my driveway and took a look at things and the only thing i SEE that is out of place is the acuator that is on the driver side of the carb on the back lower corner...... i have my emissions removed and everything plugged up still but the rod on the left of it not connected to it....
what are some things that i can keep looking for???
#3
Sounds like what happened when my engine bit the dust...But that doesnt mean yours is gone just yet...
Did your car shake like crazy on the drive home? I know mine sure did!
What is this actuator you speak of...I cant really imagine what it could be right now, and the location is a little hard to understand. Maybe explain a little better or go take a picture?
Also, what kind of miles on the car?
Did your car shake like crazy on the drive home? I know mine sure did!
What is this actuator you speak of...I cant really imagine what it could be right now, and the location is a little hard to understand. Maybe explain a little better or go take a picture?
Also, what kind of miles on the car?
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#12
Youll notice since he has no emmissions, that the shutter valve has been blocked off with a bolt in the tube. Unless it somehow closed, it shouldnt be a problem, however you could check by unbolting the carb and peeking down. If there is a valve that has closed on the primary side of the rear intake runners, then that could be your problem.
#18
Thread Starter
****ty Tune= Low #'s
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 1,496
Likes: 0
From: Charleston, SC (chucktown!)
anybody have a pic of how the shutter valve should look or be attacked too.....i know it should be but i cant find anything in that area that isnt hooked up unless it fell off while driving....
#19
Thread Starter
****ty Tune= Low #'s
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 1,496
Likes: 0
From: Charleston, SC (chucktown!)
the left end of the shutter valve isnt connected to anything???? i just looked threw the rats nest removal pics to see a pic of it and the rod that is on the left that looks like it should connect to somthing isnt.....so...nether should mine??
#20
Thread Starter
****ty Tune= Low #'s
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 1,496
Likes: 0
From: Charleston, SC (chucktown!)
ok......i swapped out the coils with some i have around...replaced some worn out looking vac plugs and put some new spark plugs in...and nothing...same result...
it sounds like it wants to run but is just shaking and blowing air and gas back out the carb but not smoking of the exhuast like i would think..
The only thing i can think of is timing or a ignitor... Is is possible that the timing just whack out randomly?? or a ignitor?
it sounds like it wants to run but is just shaking and blowing air and gas back out the carb but not smoking of the exhuast like i would think..
The only thing i can think of is timing or a ignitor... Is is possible that the timing just whack out randomly?? or a ignitor?
#21
Blowing air and gas back out the carb is definateltely a bad thing, sounds like you lost your apex seals on one rotor but the other one is almost compensating enough to run.
You should do the ghetto compression test before you go through anymore trouble.
If you dont know how, unplug your ignitors, remove the distributor cap, and pull your fuel pump fuse. Then pull the leading (lower) plugs 1 at a time and crank the engine over. If you dont hear a nice identical series of woosh sounds on both rotors, your in for a goood rebuild or a replacement.
If they sound good then at least you know your not wasting your time trying to get it to run!
You should do the ghetto compression test before you go through anymore trouble.
If you dont know how, unplug your ignitors, remove the distributor cap, and pull your fuel pump fuse. Then pull the leading (lower) plugs 1 at a time and crank the engine over. If you dont hear a nice identical series of woosh sounds on both rotors, your in for a goood rebuild or a replacement.
If they sound good then at least you know your not wasting your time trying to get it to run!
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