Why does my redline buzzer turn on when I put my key into the ACC position and also when I start the engine? The buzzer will stay on the entire time I drive the car and the tach will only read to 1,400 rpm's but the engine will rev all over the rpm's no problem. THis has happend about five times in the last year with no reason and no other symptoms. Help guys this is so very annoying to listen to during the morning commute to work. Thanks

 

ohh yeah I searched and others seem to have similar problems with different symptoms but I figured I would start my owwn thread

 

If you are sure it's not the warning buzzer for low oil or coolant, you may need to replace the tach. The buzzer is on the back of the tach itself. There is a link in the faqs on how to modify the redline, that will show you pics of the back of the tach and buzzer.

 

I just filled the coolant last week, oil isn't the problem.

New Tach? -I hope not

This is a very sporatic problem, has happend like a handfull of times in the last two years. When I drive it the tach will slowly rise to 1,400 and as you go past it the tach will bounce and the sound will bounce along with the tach bouncing. Another thing is this usually happends on a cold engine and the car will stay running with out the choke pulled out which is very strange because it usually has the tendency to die when its cold. Any mmore help is appreciated. thanks

 

May be a wiring fault between the dizzy and the tach from the your description.

 

how would I potentially check if one of my wires is bad?

 

Hmm.. are you sure it's the revv buzzer?

I had a constant buzzer problem, but it turned out it was a different buzzer. There's an oscillator just between the battery and the headlight that I just removed and it went away. To this day I don't know which buzzer that was because my redline buzzer works fine, so does my "you left your lights on dumbass" buzzer and I can't think of another buzzer I'd need (especially one that annoying!)

Jon

 

How about low coolant and oil Jon, I believe that is what the occillator is for.

 

A responsible car owner not only checks these things, but keeps an eye on his console for dummy lights

Jon

Edit: and a responsible Rx7 owner recognizes the smell of evaporating prestone before the light even comes on... true story!

 

Haha yes it is the exact same sound as the redline buzzer, I don't know of a buzzer that is used to tell the person they have no coolant left or they left there lights on?

What should I look for in this osolator*?

 

Speaking of true stories. When I put the interior back in, I forgot to plug in the seatbelt, so now I have the warning light in the dash on all the time. I don't even notice it anymore.

Since I have aftermarket gauges, I watch those and the speedo, tach is by ear. If I blew an oil line on the highway, I don't know if I would notice the light in time to shut down and save the engine. It's for this reason I advise everyone to keep the warning buzzers operational. It's one additional layer of protection for our 'babies'.

As far as buzzers go, there are 3. Over-rev, low coolant and low oil. The later 2 have warning lights also.

 

Hmm, last week my low coolant light was coming on with no buzzer.

 

Like Jon said, the oscillator is located between the battery and the headlight. It is bolted to the forward wall, just look down in front of the battery and you should be able to see it. It looks like a black plastic relay, and has a plug going into the bottom of it. Try unplugging it and see if the noise goes away. These tend to develop problems, sometimes due to moisture. Mine has been unplugged for a couple of years now, I just watch for dummy lights.

 

I have just run into a similar problem,but my issue was much simpler,and really sort of stupid on my part.In my what seems never ending attempt to get my new 79 GS road worthy I noticed that while the car was running in the garage I had a constant buzzer going,and with the overhead light switch in the "door" position,and the doors closed the light would be on.It turns out the 79,and possibly 80 models have the rear hatch wired to turn on both the key reminder buzzer,and the overhead light.On my 83 that I have had for years this wasn't the case.The 83 had a seperate light,and switch for the rear hatch.I had the hatch on the 79 open since I started working on it,and after tracing out wiring,and pouring through the FSM it was a simple fix of just closing the hatch,and all my problems were solved.

I also had an issue with my 83 that would keep bringing the low coolant light,and chime on yet I wasn't really all that low on coolant,and I couldn't figure out where it was going.It turned out to be a loose radiator hose connection that I found with a coolant system pressurizer.The leak was at the engine side so the coolant that was leaking was burning off the hot engine,and therefore I didn't see any puddles.

Good luck on yor search of this electrical gremlin.Thankfully these cars are rather simple wiring wise(well my 79 is atleast),and I would suggest getting a Factor Shop Manual if you don't allready have one.Ebay is a good place to find one.Or they are available online I think(maybe even here).

Chris
79 GS
83 LE parts car"NEED ANY PARTS??"
74 RE/PU
92 D250 Cummins diesel"for sale"
03 Ram 1500 quad cab 2wd Hemi

 

Yeah come to think of it that night I had left the smaller of the two dome lights on and turned them off in the morning when I notivced, then when I stareted it the buzzer was going off.

Latly my tach has been bouncing around at idle, 800-1,600 rpm's -I know the engine isn't turning that many because it still is keeping a steady consistent idle.

Can anyone point me in the right direction as too what to start looking at?

thanks

 

Mine is dooing the same thing did you ever have any luck with this its soooo damn annoying and your symptoms seem the same *** me cold day and the needle doesnt go above 1,500 rpms just bounces along with an annoying Buzz if you have figured this out please tell me how

 

It's a long shot, but have you checked all your fuses? I had an SE a while back with the same type of situation, checked/replaced(properly) all my fuses and it went away.

On a side note, I love when someone who has never been in an Rx7 hops in for a ride, and you hit the rev warning a few times. Most people think it's as if the world is going to end, and I like that.

 

haha, I usually get "whose honking at you" from my passengers, to which I just chuckle and explain to them what that noise is and why it happends, followed closely by a "thats the coolest thing ever, do it again"

 

sorry meng, I never found a fix for it. My car just stoped doing it on its own.

 

Jeppy, have you tried disconnecting the oscillator yet? It's right in front of the battery, just a little black box. If the noise stops when you unplug it, then you're all set. Only takes a minute...

 

You need to look at the faqs page it tells you all you need to know about the over rev buzzer.

 

Disconnecting the occillator disables the warning buzzer for low oil and coolant. Not the best advice to give, imho. I'm also not sure if the occillator even controls the over rev buzzer. The buzzer has it's own speaker on the back of the tach.

 

I agree with trochoid, you want that thing working. But most of the time it's buzzing because of moisture or corrosion in the electrical fitting and not really broken. I've found that unplugging it, cleaning up the connectors a bit and then plugging it back in solves the problem, no more buzzing.

I also like trochoid's idea that the oscillator is the warning buzzer for coolant and low oil. This would explain why nobody knows what it does - we rotary drivers are pretty much compulsive about keeping the oil topped off and the cooling system in good shape. In my six years of driving rotaries I've never had these warnings come on.

Also the speaker on the back of the tach idea makes a lot of sense, when the oscillator is doing it's screeching thing the sound seems to eminate from someplace under the dash, but it is just about impossible to locate. Since the back of the tach is up there out of reach and covered with wires and connectors, that would explain why I could never get a hold of the damn thing and rip it out when it was buzzing.

Thanks for solving the mystery Trochoid!

 

People often mistake the oscillator for the over rev or door ajar buzzer. Unplugging the oscillator is a trouble shooting step, not a solution. It will just help to pinpoing where the issue lies. They seem to mess up when the get wet, so you can give it a good drying out, then coat with undercoating or something to help keep it dry...