To Start off, i would like to thank Jeff20b for his writeup about DLIDFIS here at Jeff20b's Rotary Power Pages ... good work man, its great reading and easy to digest.

I decided to do this install because i was bored, and i knew that i'd end up modifying the Ignition somewhere along the line, and since i still cant drive the car (title problems.... i need to title this car, cause i have no title basically)... i may as well do it all now. So at first i thought that i didnt have the igniters. As it turns out, i did, because when i bought my car, it came with a 1980 motor complete, and a 1983 motor complete, and when i put the 1983 motor in the car, i used the 1980 dizzy and ignition because it was plug 'n' play at the time. So i had 2 J109's and 2 J105's.... i then purchased 2 more j109s' for $15, and had all the igniters i needed.

To start, i mounted the 2 leading igniters on a bigass computer heatsink that i had from my casemodding/overclocking days of computers.



and then i mounted the trailing igniter on a smaller heatsink that i also had lying around ( i had to mount the trailing igniter off the dizzy because a) the pickup wires come all the way out to the fender, and b) the 1980 dizzy does not have the provisions to mount it. i then searched for a place to put this contraption i made, and i then realized that with some creative bending of my bracket, i could use the stock 1980 igniter box bracket to hold **** down. I Gutted the igniter box and cut the back panel (aluminum) until my heatsink assembly would fit, then i bolted it up, and bolted the whole enciilada in place of the stock ignition box. I left the 2 stock coils as leading, and mounted the Trailing coil (spare i had) in a stock Small Block Chevy coil bracket behind the drivers side strut tower where the hot start assist motor used to be.





In terms of wiring, i followed Jeff20b's directions, and this schematic:



For ignition wires, i chose MSD 8.5mm SuperConductor wire, that i got for $23 in a 25' Roll from Summit. I also got 2 straight boots for the leading, 2 90 degree boots for the trailing, 4 "Socket" style boots, and used the stock two 135 degree coil boots for the leading coils. I measued what i needed for each wire very carefully, and made all my wires. As it all turns out, i dont even need wire seperators because it all turned out so damn well. Hell, i even used the stock seperator for the coil wires.



After all that was done, i turned the key... and nothing... wouldnt fire for ****, the coils would spark furiously... shooting thick blue sparks at anything that was within 4 inches of them... but still no spark at the plugs. As it turns out, the 2 leading plugs were carbon fouled and provided no resistance, so the spark wasnt jumping, so i threw in a set of the old plugs and she fired RIGHT up and idled nicely. Sounded a little smoother too. In short, it revs quicker, sounds better, runs a little leaner, starts MUCH more easily... like after 2 cranks, and this motor barely ever used to start.



A farewell from the modded beast... there are a few more pics in that directory if you wanna look: http://home.earthlink.net/~jutny/RX7/DLIDFIS/

-Kurt

 

nice work man!

Got a question..... what did you use for the connectors that are circled in this pic?

 

the stock connector to the igniter, heavily modified by a hacksaw blade.... just cut all that molded **** off the connector.

 

I'm surprised no one else ever thought of using that spot for thr trailing coil....aren't you a liitle afraid that the length of the coil wire is too short, though? The engine is going to rock even with the "plate" style mounting bracket it has down below...

 

Damn dude, that **** looks GOOD!! Something I can apprectiate, making all my own stuff too . I really like the heatsink idea, I have a few spares of those myself...Hmmm. The only reason I havent setup mine is I didnt have an idea for the ignitor plate (that and Im lazy ). Anyway, looks DAMN good . I really like the plug wires too. I need to make my own wires too...Anyone like the Accel wire? Or are the MSD wires better? Jacobs? Anything?

~T.J.

 

The stock connectors from your 80 ignition? Too bad I don't have an 80 engine to cannibalize. Does anyone have any ideas on where I can get two connectors like this?

 

the connectors are the ones that go through from the inside to the outside of the distribuor... and connect to the back of the igniters.

these came off a 81-85 dizzy, but both style can be used, you just have to cut it down like i did anyway.

another thing that works: a 16-20 gauge Butt Splice connector flattened a little bit and with the plastic overhang cut off on one side.

RMD: Thanks, the idea just came to me one day, and i was like... Damn, lemee do this.

 

Yeah, it does look good. Reading that reminds me that I need to make my own wires when I go direct fire as well (I need new wires anyway), so what were the part numbers from Summit? I looked there and all I could find were the rolls of wire...I couldnt find ther terminals and the boots? Thanks .

~T.J.

 

1 (MSD-3301)
1 (MSD-3311)
2 (MSD-3322) but i reccomend 3 (these are the socket ones... i forgot to add one to my order, so i had to use the stock coil boots and re-use some termnials)
1 (MSD-34019)
1 (MSD 3503) i highly reccomend the stripper/crimper, it makes making the wires nice and easy.

good luck with your setup, i hope it turns out well.

Edit: funny, my next project is the one you just finiehed... getting rid of the water/oil "cooler" for an air/oil cooler.

 

Haha...That is kinda funny. Thanks for the part numbers

~T.J.

 

Nice job jutny! Lookin good!

 

I've got all the stuff sitting around to do the mod myself, just a little fuzzy on one point mentioned on jeff20bs site, someone wanna clear this up for me?;


DO NOT try to use the stock harness as-is to run the Trailing ignitor output alongside the Leading pickup signal because it won't work! The black w/ white stripe wire is shared between the Leading and Trailing T connectors. They were connected together so Mazda could save a few cents per harness by reducing the amount of wires in it running over to the coils (it also saves weight and is less wear on the connections when the engine vibrates). Hey, it works great for a stock single fire system, but don't use it for DLIDFIS. That's why I recommend building a completely new harness for the Trailing ignitor and using a shielded cable for the Leading pickup. Gutting the stock harness to use the T connectors on both Leading ignitors is ok to do too.

 

Actually, I think with where my coils are (on the drivers strut tower), I would end up with:

(2) MSD-3311
(3) MSD-3322
(1) MSD-34019
(1) MSD 3503 (It looks pretty cool, and its only $4 )

Anyway, thanks a lot man . I think Im gonna go with MSD. I was gonna go with Accel again, but after looking in the right spot, I found all the MSD stuff I needed. I still cant find the Accel stuff. Oh well. Ill settle for red wires with grey boots...I guess they dont have to be yellow .

~T.J.

PS - Anyone suggest against MSD wires? What do you guys reccomend? I thought I heard of MSD wires "burning up" or something?

 

RMD< no problem bro... and good luck.

Zulu: no idea, thats why i used the 1980 dizzy, because of the wiring and where it came out. Sorry.

85rx7gs: thanks

 

Its easy, and definatly worth it. I'm very happy with mine. Nice looking DLIDFIS setup, I'm gonna do that someday.

 

By the way, how much wire do you ahve left from that 25' roll? Could you make a second set of wires? maybe just a stock set?

~T.J.

PS - I really like my air/oil cooler also .

 

there is ~15' left from the roll.

meaning you would have enough to do 2 of these.

 

and a few dirt-bikes

 

WE have the same KEYBOARD!!!!! THATS AMAZING !.... sweet setup btw never seen that befor, what does DLIDFIS stand for ?

 

dual leading ignitor direct fire ignition system, i think

 

On a side note, with DLIDFIS, what could be used to shield the new harness? I think jeff recommends using microphone wire, but I haven't been able to find any anywheres. Anything else work?

 

how does it affect preformance and is it an expsensive mod?

 

shielded twisted-pair stranded wire should work. You can probably get this at your local electronics store. You know, the kind of store run by geeks not sales people.

 

Haha, thats great

~T.J.

PS - I have that same keyboard too .

 

Doh, I knew I should have saved that hugeass Alpha HS from my OCing days. Hee hee... saw this on the [H]F but decided to comment here; nice work man. I am so going to be ending up doing this as well... ah... once I'm in the same zip code as my babies again.

Though this brings to mind a thought... I keep seeing the turbo guys talking about running no trailing / lead split... and I just have to wonder if that has any bearing for us less fortunate NA boys. Then again, maybe I should go ask them.