my car is slow!!!!!!!!!!!
#26
car geek
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: Greenville, NC
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You should definately be making more power the higher you rev it, thats just how rotaries are, if you are feeling a loss in power somewhere up high then there is definately a problem.
As far as building a motor goes, i would say a standard bridge, a big weber, and a wet nitros kit (75-100 shot) with that you should have well over 220 @ the ground. Any weight/rotating mass you can stand to loose will help, a/c, u can swap the mechanical water pump for an electric one. If you get larger wheels, then i would suggest making weight the first thing you look at when choosing new ones. Everyone says that the little things like that dont matter, but if you pay attention to all the little stuff it makes a big difference.
If i were you, i would look into a haltec, the F10a comes with all the wiring and sensors you need and you can find them for around $900. With fuel injection you can get more power, reliability, and streetability. They arent that hard to tune either, i think "the hitman" has fuel maps you can download. It wont cost that much more either, the weber kits are pretty expensive.
As far as building a motor goes, i would say a standard bridge, a big weber, and a wet nitros kit (75-100 shot) with that you should have well over 220 @ the ground. Any weight/rotating mass you can stand to loose will help, a/c, u can swap the mechanical water pump for an electric one. If you get larger wheels, then i would suggest making weight the first thing you look at when choosing new ones. Everyone says that the little things like that dont matter, but if you pay attention to all the little stuff it makes a big difference.
If i were you, i would look into a haltec, the F10a comes with all the wiring and sensors you need and you can find them for around $900. With fuel injection you can get more power, reliability, and streetability. They arent that hard to tune either, i think "the hitman" has fuel maps you can download. It wont cost that much more either, the weber kits are pretty expensive.
#29
Uchinanchu
Join Date: Sep 2002
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Originally posted by 82transam
If you want streetable a brideport isn't gonna be very fun to drive. What you want isnt gonna happen without a turbo, or a later model engine.
If you want streetable a brideport isn't gonna be very fun to drive. What you want isnt gonna happen without a turbo, or a later model engine.
#30
love the braaaap
If you don't have enough money for a turbo setup on your 12a, you don't have enough money to do it without a turbo. To set up a turbo on a 12a, its very easy. I think coldy spent a little over $1000 on his (am I right?). There is just no way to make 200 rwhp reliably on a 12a without forced induction.
#31
Adolf Hitler Verfechter
Join Date: Sep 2002
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Normally highly tuned NA engines cost more than low boost turbo engines ,especially in Rotary engine aplications.the cost of getting the components so that they can stand the extreme rpm is high,compared to a 7 psi carb turbo setup
Here is price breakdown for a 12A BP engine ,that will last a while,and be dependable :
$121 : front stationary gear
$138 rear stationary gear
$40 3 window bearing (2off required)
$30 carbon seal (6 off required)
$10.50 race spring 6 off required)
$90 130psi oil pressure regulator
$ 840 Rebuilt kit (Apex seals +springs will not be used)
$235 Intake manifold
$499 Weber 48 IDA
$500 Custom exhaust
Allot off the stuff is variable,but this is the basics,if you do the porting yourself,with some templates.the prices are used of racing beat`s site.
total : $ 2596
The engine will be loud,and actually more suited for non-traffic driving
Karis
Here is price breakdown for a 12A BP engine ,that will last a while,and be dependable :
$121 : front stationary gear
$138 rear stationary gear
$40 3 window bearing (2off required)
$30 carbon seal (6 off required)
$10.50 race spring 6 off required)
$90 130psi oil pressure regulator
$ 840 Rebuilt kit (Apex seals +springs will not be used)
$235 Intake manifold
$499 Weber 48 IDA
$500 Custom exhaust
Allot off the stuff is variable,but this is the basics,if you do the porting yourself,with some templates.the prices are used of racing beat`s site.
total : $ 2596
The engine will be loud,and actually more suited for non-traffic driving
Karis
#32
First change the fuel filter. Then, I would upgrade the fule delivery system, Fuel Pump, Pressure regulator and gauge. When you can keep a constant 3.5-4.5 psi(depending on year of car). 76-83 12a 4.5 psi / 84-85 12a 3.5 psi. Then get a header!
HEADERS ARE A MUST HAVE ITEM ! ! !
Then make sure the intake breathes as well as the exhaust with atleast a K&N air filter and if you can punch mad holes in the air filter assembly that will also increase breathing capability! A good muffler helps alot!
With those bolt ons and a good running engine you should be at 150 hp
DONT FORGET THE IGNITION:
HEADERS ARE A MUST HAVE ITEM ! ! !
Then make sure the intake breathes as well as the exhaust with atleast a K&N air filter and if you can punch mad holes in the air filter assembly that will also increase breathing capability! A good muffler helps alot!
With those bolt ons and a good running engine you should be at 150 hp
DONT FORGET THE IGNITION:
#33
Damn it!
Like I was saying,
DONT FORGET THE IGNITION: Convert to Direct Fire Ignition
search apul yaw direct fire ignition and you should find plenty of info on how to do it. The cheap way is to use a 2nd gen coil!
Like I was saying,
DONT FORGET THE IGNITION: Convert to Direct Fire Ignition
search apul yaw direct fire ignition and you should find plenty of info on how to do it. The cheap way is to use a 2nd gen coil!
#34
Uchinanchu
Join Date: Sep 2002
Location: Orlando, FL
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Its not always about how much the parts cost but who you know. If you get know some of the people in your area or in other areas with rotary engines you might come by some of the parts cheaper. When I upgrade to a bridgeport I'll be spending around 1000 bucks. Only thing is that I won't be running any race parts because I'm going with the suggestion of my friend who is a mechanic and he suggested just using all oem parts as far as apex seals and springs and such. I'm ok with that because him and my other friend both have bridged 12a's and they have been running for 4 years and counting with occasional 10,000 rpm runs without any problems.
#35
Adolf Hitler Verfechter
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I agree with what Junia said.
This was just an example,but a ported engine can be built for alot cheaper.
It doesnt need to be less realiable because its cheaper.
Ignition systems help a big deal,especially on a ported motor.
Karis
This was just an example,but a ported engine can be built for alot cheaper.
It doesnt need to be less realiable because its cheaper.
Ignition systems help a big deal,especially on a ported motor.
Karis
#36
Rotary Freak
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: Land Of Confusion southern MI, USA
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Originally posted by 82transam
Ok, the FB in stock form is a slow *** car, but a 6cyl mustang? You should easily smoke that ******.
Ok, the FB in stock form is a slow *** car, but a 6cyl mustang? You should easily smoke that ******.
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