My 84 GSL-SE Project
#76
I have the full RB exhaust and Pineapple inserts in the 5/6 ports. Car pulls so strong from 2k until the alarm goes off. I've never checked the timing, assume its stock. You might get away with a RB down pipe and Presilencer and the smog police wouldn't notice. Those cats realy choke it.
#79
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Long story short: Found TDC with a wire in the rear rotor, reset the crank pulley, reset distributor, idled roughly and back firing above 2k rpms. Tried moving the distributor a tooth either direction and nothing, put it back on TDC and flipped the pick up leads to the leading ignition modules and its has power now. Still not idling on her own when she is cold, once warm idles around 800 rpms. I still have to get a simple timing light on it and actually get it timed correctly.
Oil cooler was leaking a little and got the bright idea to try to snug it up a bit and got a big puddle of oil in the drive way. Will be searching for new crush washers today to fix that and should be driving her to work starting tomorrow.
There are still a bunch of little things to do to it as currently I have no horn, dash lights, or turn signals and still have to get the rest of the ducting back in the dash. Gotta get some speakers for it since they are all gone. Remove the power window motors and see if I can clean them up and get them working better. And get some new mirrors since these are missing some hardware and currently not working. Its a list, but its nothing that makes it not driveable and a much better choice than my current car that sounds like it wants to throw a rod out the block any time you start it or get above 55 mph.
Oil cooler was leaking a little and got the bright idea to try to snug it up a bit and got a big puddle of oil in the drive way. Will be searching for new crush washers today to fix that and should be driving her to work starting tomorrow.
There are still a bunch of little things to do to it as currently I have no horn, dash lights, or turn signals and still have to get the rest of the ducting back in the dash. Gotta get some speakers for it since they are all gone. Remove the power window motors and see if I can clean them up and get them working better. And get some new mirrors since these are missing some hardware and currently not working. Its a list, but its nothing that makes it not driveable and a much better choice than my current car that sounds like it wants to throw a rod out the block any time you start it or get above 55 mph.
#80
Do you have the FSM? If not download it. I have an Hayes that came with car. I've never opened it. FSM so much better. I went through the set up on cold idle and warm idle several times, at first I left out some steps and wasn't happy. I would drive awhile than go back and follow every step. Now works great.
Your oil cooler experience sounds exactly as mine. I took it off and cleaned off the paint from the bung and looked very closely. I saw avery fine crack. had it welded and reinstalled and still leaked. Ordered new crush washers from Mazdatrix there aluminum, no leaks since.
Your oil cooler experience sounds exactly as mine. I took it off and cleaned off the paint from the bung and looked very closely. I saw avery fine crack. had it welded and reinstalled and still leaked. Ordered new crush washers from Mazdatrix there aluminum, no leaks since.
#81
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I have the FSM downloaded some where, but hate looking at it on a screen. I tried to get a friend to print it for me since he owned a print shop, but he has never done it. I have a Chilton's which helped more for setting the distributor up.
I picked up 2 new crush washers from O'reilly's today, but busy filing taxes and can't go out and fix it yet.
I picked up 2 new crush washers from O'reilly's today, but busy filing taxes and can't go out and fix it yet.
#83
When you toss the cats you might want to look up a cat recycler. They will pay good money for factory rx7 cats and it might help offset the cost of your new exhaust. They even pay the shipping to them (from you). Large factory FB cats should bring $80 up. Smaller ones are 445 and up. just an idea for you........
#85
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I have no idea why I didn't put this thread in the Build sub-forum.
Well I drove the car to work Monday no problems. Took it to the car wash and realized all the window seals are leaking, still need to give it a proper bath. Got home and took the oil cooler off because it was still leaking and I noticed some cracks on the lower bung. Took the cooler into work and had them weld it up Tuesday...left my wrenches at work. Just got the cooler back in and no leaks. I'm amazed that was the only leak on the car that I have noticed.
Here are the pics of my new ignition setup:
I still have to get it timed properly, the leading is firing off on the trailing mark. I don't know if my timing light was too fancy for a rotary or what, but will be getting it fixed soon. Its drive able. The swap really wasn't that complicated, had some issues with the bracket for the modules and the bolts I originally used and then I also tried to use some of the factory wiring, which didn't work out. It was all easy to fix though once I learned the crank pulley was installed incorrectly.
I also meant to grab a pic of one of the switches in the center console, I have no clue what it is for. My original thought was the mirrors, but I found out that switch is on the dash, so I have no idea what the joystick in the console is.
Well I drove the car to work Monday no problems. Took it to the car wash and realized all the window seals are leaking, still need to give it a proper bath. Got home and took the oil cooler off because it was still leaking and I noticed some cracks on the lower bung. Took the cooler into work and had them weld it up Tuesday...left my wrenches at work. Just got the cooler back in and no leaks. I'm amazed that was the only leak on the car that I have noticed.
Here are the pics of my new ignition setup:
I still have to get it timed properly, the leading is firing off on the trailing mark. I don't know if my timing light was too fancy for a rotary or what, but will be getting it fixed soon. Its drive able. The swap really wasn't that complicated, had some issues with the bracket for the modules and the bolts I originally used and then I also tried to use some of the factory wiring, which didn't work out. It was all easy to fix though once I learned the crank pulley was installed incorrectly.
I also meant to grab a pic of one of the switches in the center console, I have no clue what it is for. My original thought was the mirrors, but I found out that switch is on the dash, so I have no idea what the joystick in the console is.
#86
Everyone always wonders about the joystick bro. Its for the factory stereo, you can point it in the direction you want the sound to come out of your speakers. Only 1 of the 3 Rx7's ive owned actually had a working one. Was cool and everyone used to play with it, got annoying.
#87
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I was thinking that was possibly what it was. Currently don't have any speakers in the car yet so I couldn't check. Seems a little weird since the radio also has controls for fade and balance.
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Its picture time! Just gave the 7 a Comet bath, still needs to be polished, but came out looking a lot better than it did. I still would like to give it a nice wet sand and buff.
Lurking in the garage.
Right after the bath.
Now on to more things to fix. I have a few plugs under the dash that I don't know where they are supposed to go to. I currently do not have blinkers, dash lights, or a horn. I have checked the ground behind the gauge cluster and its good. I think it has to do with these plugs but I can't find anything that they go to.
Located on the right side of the steering column, very short leads out of the main loom.
Left side of column just behind the hood release.
Left side of column, 2 plugs total.
Lurking in the garage.
Right after the bath.
Now on to more things to fix. I have a few plugs under the dash that I don't know where they are supposed to go to. I currently do not have blinkers, dash lights, or a horn. I have checked the ground behind the gauge cluster and its good. I think it has to do with these plugs but I can't find anything that they go to.
Located on the right side of the steering column, very short leads out of the main loom.
Left side of column just behind the hood release.
Left side of column, 2 plugs total.
#89
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Well I finally got a base timing light and got the leading timing set, but for some reason the trailing is wayy off. It actually runs smoother with the trailing not firing. I still have a running rich issue. I picked up new O2 sensor and some exhaust gaskets to replace sometime. On the last tank of gas I hit 18mpg with 75% of it being highway and you can't really stand near the car without your eyes watering from how rich it is. I currently have the fuel pressure set down to 20psi but don't want to reduce it any more than that. And of course still have some electrical issues I was going to work on this weekend but left the diagrams at work.
#90
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Its been awhile since I've updated this. I've replaced a few trim pieces here and there on it.
Yesterday I pulled the dash back out, which I hate this dash with the center console being part of it. The thing is heavy and a pain to get in and out of the car. Any way, pulled the dash to try to solve my blinker/horn/dash light issues. I found out what those plugs go to in the previous post: There is a plate with some relays and flasher module right next to the clutch pedal and none of it was plugged in. Currently I have 3 of the 4 blinkers working now. The right rear isn't working and bulb looks fine, so will pull out the volt meter and see whats going on. Also have an issue with the reverse light on that side too. Still no horn and haven't checked the dash lights.
I'm hoping to get a spare engine to play around with as soon as I find a way to get it out of the salvage yard. Its locked up, but will give me something to play around with.
Changed the transmission fluid yesterday as well. Took it in to an oil change place for them to specifically and they said it was fine. Drain the oil and its black as can be and maybe half a pint came out. Go to take the fill plug out and not a single mark on it and tight as all get out. They never checked it. Hopefully this will solve some of the noise from it and thats what I get for trying to let someone else do it and take their word on it.
Next up is changing the rear diff which I'm not looking forward to.
Good news though is the car has been doing great, no major issues from it so far driving 40 miles every day. I still have an exhaust leak I need to get fixed, kind of putting it off until I can afford getting an exhaust for it so I don't have to put that manifold back on.
Yesterday I pulled the dash back out, which I hate this dash with the center console being part of it. The thing is heavy and a pain to get in and out of the car. Any way, pulled the dash to try to solve my blinker/horn/dash light issues. I found out what those plugs go to in the previous post: There is a plate with some relays and flasher module right next to the clutch pedal and none of it was plugged in. Currently I have 3 of the 4 blinkers working now. The right rear isn't working and bulb looks fine, so will pull out the volt meter and see whats going on. Also have an issue with the reverse light on that side too. Still no horn and haven't checked the dash lights.
I'm hoping to get a spare engine to play around with as soon as I find a way to get it out of the salvage yard. Its locked up, but will give me something to play around with.
Changed the transmission fluid yesterday as well. Took it in to an oil change place for them to specifically and they said it was fine. Drain the oil and its black as can be and maybe half a pint came out. Go to take the fill plug out and not a single mark on it and tight as all get out. They never checked it. Hopefully this will solve some of the noise from it and thats what I get for trying to let someone else do it and take their word on it.
Next up is changing the rear diff which I'm not looking forward to.
Good news though is the car has been doing great, no major issues from it so far driving 40 miles every day. I still have an exhaust leak I need to get fixed, kind of putting it off until I can afford getting an exhaust for it so I don't have to put that manifold back on.
#91
Do you still have the stock steering system? I had to add a ground wire to tie the steering shaft back to the chassis, after I installed The ReSpeed rack and pinion kit. Now I have a horn. ( Check the grounding ) Spare motor, Ya while you have it apart prep it for a turbo ie, remove the plug in the front iron for oil feed and front cover for oil return. Rear housing for water supply to stock S5 LIM water supply. Than a turbo water pump housing. Ready than!
Last edited by HRnico; 05-04-13 at 08:58 PM. Reason: To go faster
#92
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Yes still have the stock steering. The only thing not stock on it currently is the fuel & ignition system, and replaced the power window switch bezel with a GS that has the coin tray instead of the stereo control. I still need to get the jumper wire for it, but still don't have speakers so no hurry on it.
I will check the grounding on the horn circuit.
I still have no dash lights, still have this connector that needs a home I'm guessing:
Right rear turn signal and reverse light I believe both just need new sockets. Pulled out the volt meter and popped the light off and both connectors are full of rust. I was able to get voltage at the connector with the volt meter, but can't get it to the bulb, can't clean it out enough down low.
I need to hurry up and sort this lighting, horn, and exhaust leak issue out so I can get it pass inspection and registered here. I'm way past my 30 days, rolling around with the tag off my old car, which was legal for the first 30 days.
I will check the grounding on the horn circuit.
I still have no dash lights, still have this connector that needs a home I'm guessing:
Right rear turn signal and reverse light I believe both just need new sockets. Pulled out the volt meter and popped the light off and both connectors are full of rust. I was able to get voltage at the connector with the volt meter, but can't get it to the bulb, can't clean it out enough down low.
I need to hurry up and sort this lighting, horn, and exhaust leak issue out so I can get it pass inspection and registered here. I'm way past my 30 days, rolling around with the tag off my old car, which was legal for the first 30 days.
#93
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Here is the current plan on my 7: I'm going to get the exhaust leak fixed and get the A/C back in working order and finally get the car tagged here in NC...not quite in that order. When that is done, this winter I plan on looking for a motorcycle and once weather permits, I will end up selling or trading the 7. I like the car, but want a bike and its about that time when I will need more than 2 seats and the bike is going the opposite direction.
I think I will be able to make a nice profit off of it and then put that towards a new vehicle.
I think I will be able to make a nice profit off of it and then put that towards a new vehicle.