My 82 GSL bucks violently
10-13-05, 08:40 AM
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My 82 GSL bucks violently
I am new to rotary, I bought an (82 GSL 5 speed) it starts fine but idles really rough (shakes the shifter and car) when trying to start out in 1st slowly it will buck very bad and the same thru the other gears (less that 3000 rpm) but if I get on it shifting quick keeping the R’s up it pulls really strong? It’s so bad that I can’t image driving it around town, even at highway speed when I back out of the throttle I can still feel it bucking?(not as bad)
Sorry if I have missed something searching the forum but I as of yet have not found anything that refrences both the rough idle and the bucking, I have only had the car a couple days so this weekend I will change the plugs, wires, rotor and cap along with the fuel filter also I will look for any vacume leaks and motor mounts and tranny mounts.
I hope I didn’t get a POS car, but it pulls so strong when I get on it that my gut feeling is the motor is alright? I have done two Archie V8 Fiero conversations in the last three years and I’m thinking anyone can go fast with cubic inches. But going fast with a whole lot less displacement would be an accomplishment.
Sorry if I have missed something searching the forum but I as of yet have not found anything that refrences both the rough idle and the bucking, I have only had the car a couple days so this weekend I will change the plugs, wires, rotor and cap along with the fuel filter also I will look for any vacume leaks and motor mounts and tranny mounts.
I hope I didn’t get a POS car, but it pulls so strong when I get on it that my gut feeling is the motor is alright? I have done two Archie V8 Fiero conversations in the last three years and I’m thinking anyone can go fast with cubic inches. But going fast with a whole lot less displacement would be an accomplishment.
10-13-05, 08:47 AM
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If the things you plan on checking and replacing dont take care of the problem it could be that carb needs rebuilding. And by the way welcome to the forum and the world of rotaries.
10-13-05, 04:53 PM
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Mine bucks also but I know for a fact my timing is off. And also when it's pulling hard it won't buck. Feels like a kick in the pants. I also get all the shaking. I tap the gas and it'll smooth out (a little). Does it ever turn off on you???
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10-14-05, 01:52 PM
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I have only driven it 2.5 hours when I brought it home the other day, until I get it to settle down little I'm don't want to drive it much, so no it hasn't shut off on me yet, I dove it home on the thurway at about 72mph and I could still feel it bucking but not near as bad as when I trying to drive thru town to get home?
10-14-05, 02:10 PM
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love the braaaap
Check your timing. Replacing all the standard things (plugs, plug wires, cap and rotor, fuel filter, air filter) should have some effect on the performance of the car. Fuel filter most likely won't change much, but the rest might have a great effect on the car. But check your timing. Chances are its off.
10-14-05, 03:18 PM
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distributor cap and rotor (the one under the cap) or plug wires. Your spark is weaker at low RPM so plugs spark intermittantly. At higher RPM your spark is strong.
My rx-7 would buck at low RPM when it had a dead alternator and the battery was low especially when I applied the brakes.
But you sound mechanically enclined enough to know if you alternator was bad.
My rx-7 would buck at low RPM when it had a dead alternator and the battery was low especially when I applied the brakes.
But you sound mechanically enclined enough to know if you alternator was bad.
10-14-05, 06:56 PM
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I haven't had a chance to look at anything yet, I drove it home Tuesday and the amp meter stayed over on 16 the whole way home and it had to jumped when I picked it up Tuesday, I like the alternator idea I will find out tomorrow when I try to start it to move it into the garage. I have spent sometime with Chevy Mouse and Rat motors, and I'm not afraid to turn a wrench but the knowledge all you folks have is amazing, thanks everyone who has responded so far.
10-16-05, 10:59 AM
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Timing is easy, er, you do have a timing light, right? Okay then, remove the two vaccuum lines that run to the dizzy and plug them. Let the car warm up, and make sure that its idling at around 850 rpms (adjust idle if necessary). If its idling much higher than that, you won't get an accurate reading because the mechanical advance will be active. Once you have it idling properly, hook up the light to the bottom front plug and check the position of the mark on the pulley. Adjust the position of the dizzy until this mark lines up, then you're all set. I wouldn't even bother messing with the trailing timing at this point, it won't make a noticeable difference. Good luck. 
10-17-05, 09:43 AM
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All,
Success my what a diffrence plugs, wires, cap and rotor make (and Fuel Filter), it was the best hour and half spent in a long time, smooth as silk good power and no bucking, these are great cars. Thanks again I'm off to Troy, MI for a couple days.
Success my what a diffrence plugs, wires, cap and rotor make (and Fuel Filter), it was the best hour and half spent in a long time, smooth as silk good power and no bucking, these are great cars. Thanks again I'm off to Troy, MI for a couple days.
