Thanks for the tips. I prob wouldnt bother with the CC nut, unless i have one handy. Glad my dashpot isnt broken. I only have one Fluke meter so its hard to test my TPS using that page I found. But I think both sides had positive voltage with just the ignition on, but car not started.

 

You can make a test light. Use a pair of small12v lightbulb (I use pre-wired 12v LEDs from RadioShack). One end of each light goes to the 'mouth' of the 3 pin test connector. The other end of each bulb goes to each 'eye' of the connector. With the engine warm, hook up test light, turn key to 'ON' (not start) and adjust the screw until only 1 bulb is on.

You can jsut use a multimeter, but it is more difficult:
- measure between the 'mouth' and each 'eye'. When adjusted properly, one will be at like 12v, the other 0v.

So this way, you adjust a little, make two measurements, adjust again, repeat until it is correctly set. Like I said, there is a couple good write-ups on this, but this is the basic procedure. The write-ups may still have pictures up and that will explain things better.

 

Thanks! I'll buy some Radio shack LED once i find some.

 

I'm just posting this for my own use in my thread. Its from the good page here:

http://www.nellump.net/peri/epi/firs...gslseIdle.html


ADJUSTING THE THROTTLE SENSOR (Throttle Position Sensor [TPS])

Locate the test connector near the strut tower and the air filter. It is a green, three pronged connector. Position it so the two parallel connectors are on top, looking like two eyes and a mouth. You will be measuring current flow between the mouth and each eye. There are three ways to do this:

You can get from Mazda (or build) a rig with two 12 volt, 3.4 watt light bulbs. Mazdatrix sells it as part # 49-F018-0010. To build your own, pigtail one lead from each bulb together, and connect them to the "mouth." Connect the remaining lead from each bulb to one of the eyes.

You can use two voltmeters. Set the range for 20 volts DC. Meter #1 will have it's positive lead to the "mouth" and the negative lead to the left "eye." Meter #2 will have it's negative lead to the "mouth," and its positive lead to the right "eye."

If you only have one volt meter, you can buy another one (cheap) or you can make do with the single meter and by alternating the position of the leads. The problem is you have to reverse leads as you alternate to keep the meters wired as in the "two meter" description above.

Locate the TPS adjusting screw. This is a slotted screw located 2 inches to the intake side of the "R" in "RE-EGI." This screw came with a cap over it, but don't be surprised if it is missing.

For the following procedure, reference is made to voltage registering on one, both, or neither meter. This is the same as one both or neither lights glowing if you are using that method.

Warm up the engine and stop it.

Connect the meters or lights to the green test connector

Turn the ignition switch on (light the dash warning lights)

Look for one meter to register voltage.

If voltage registers on both meters turn the adjusting screw counter-clockwise.

If voltage registers on neither meter turn the adjusting screw clockwise.

The TPS is properly adjusted when only one meter registers voltage.

 

And so ends this portion of my life.

The car is sold and gone.

Went to a really good owner who seemed to appreciate it a lot more than me.

 

What price?

 

Advertised $2300, got $2400

(Had two people that wanted it yesterday.)

It went to Antioch, CA to someone who has owned three 12A's before this.

 

Now I'm looking for a new project, I'm getting bored with my new BMW. I dont have tons to spend, but this sure is a nice one.. I'd like to learn from my past mistakes and buy a more expensive car this time, rather than one I will have to put $2000 into once I get it.

http://sfbay.craigslist.org/pen/ctd/965745233.html

 

i kind of like those mudflaps, too bad my car doesn't have them.

were they an option for the car? or aftermarket? anyone know?

 

man, i miss this car sometimes... but not the work it needed..