I came home with the car I've been asking about in my other thread. I bought it 3 hours ago, and already its registered and smogged in my name. I have also already done the o-ring fix and threw on a new oil filter while I was at it. Now I will monitor that corner and see what kind of leaks I still have.

I work my projects through videos, not pics usually. So this is my YouTube car channel:

http://www.youtube.com/profile?user=LastHumansGarage

I dont have any videos of this new project yet, but I have recorded them and they will be up by tomorrow. In the meantime you could look at my 90 Legend project or my 87 300zx project videos if any interest.

I can't wait to get to work on this car cleaning it up as much as possible.

My steering seems to have play in the middle sometimes. I prob need an idler arm if this car has one. The drivers sunvisor falls down and some other very minor stuff.

I'll add pics once I've cleaned it to make this thread less boring.

 

you can check your idler arm pretty easily..reach down and yank on it with your hand in the engine bay. should be nice and solid.

if it goes CHUNK-up, CHUNK-down get a new one!

but there will ALWAYS be a little slop in the steering, about an inch worth. inherent to the steering system the car uses.

 

ya i got a lot of investigating to do. Do you need a press of any kind to swap that idler, or direct easy bolt in?

I'll be cleaning the exterior and interior to start with. And getting a new seat frame as my adjuster is broken. I can't get comfortable in my seat yet. Then the rear view mirror is hanging down a bit, its loose in its bracket I think. I have to see about tightening the drivers side visor, or just remove it.

 

sounds good.where do you live in the bay?

 

im in san mateo/foster city.

I'll be cruising the car in a few days after I do the following:

wash, clay bar, wax. (won't help much, paint is crap.)
remove seats and do a full vacuum/cleaning
check out the tune up parts, make sure theyre not old
maybe adjust my steering pinion nut a 1/2 turn to tighten up my freeplay
engine degreaser/clean engine compartment. (hope it runs after i get it wet)

the stereo speakers sound pretty bad, prob blown. might put something cheap in their place, not too concerned about sound quality in this car.

this car idles like a smooth glass lake.

 

Idler arm is held on by a castle nut and cotter pin. Check out www.blackdragonauto.com for any parts you may need.

And, check out the FSMs for your car if you need any other additional help.
http://www.wankel.net/~krwright/cars/rx7/manuals

 

sweet, bushings are a lot cheaper than replacing the idler arm itself.

I have that manual bookmarked from last time

 

Season 3, Episode 1: Introduction

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4xI77OEzNWA

Season 3, Episode 2: Oil pedestal leak

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2i_lASvv_qw

 

Season 3, Episode 3 - Cleanup

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vd93XPe29Zg

 

Important stuff I am learning as i drove this for the first time..

I smell raw gas... a lot. I don't think a loose gas cap would cause that much smell..

 

FYI! If your "smelling raw gas" you need to investigate ASAP before driving your GSL-SE. It could be warn/leaking fuel injector o-rings but could be the pulsation dampner. This can cause an engine compartment fire in a heart-beat. Resolve this issue first.

 

it might be leaky injectors . but i think it might be the puslation dampner. where is the smell coming from?

^beat me too it. what he said

 

hmm it comes from everywhere i guess. When i washed my engine with gunk today, all the water was rainbow colored. but that might have just been buildup from 15+ years..

it might be in my head too.. i gotta drive it a couple days and make sure. I have to find where the injectors are on this thing.

Ordered some parts..

1) 1 15-5110-N304 HOSE UPPER RAD $18.99 $18.99
2) 1 15-521B-N304 HOSE LOWER RAD $16.10 $16.10
3) 1 61-2120-8871 HOSE HEATER $12.13 $12.13
4) 1 61-213A-FA42 HOSE HEATER $15.74 $15.74
5) 1 61-2300-8871 HOSE HEATER $48.58 $48.58
6) 1 13-208A-N304 HOSE WATER 84-85 13B $18.79 $18.79
7) 1 13-2090-N304 HOSE WATER 84-85 13B $15.73 $15.73
8) 1 43-0420-FA01 PEDAL PAD $5.19 $5.19
9) 1 41-711A-FA54 PEDAL PAD GAS $11.34 $11.34
10) 2 43-0280-S083 PEDAL PAD $5.67 $11.34
11) 2 4709 SHOCK HATCH $41.78 $83.56
12) 2 58-3030-8116-12 DOOR HANDLE COVER $6.70 $13.40< /TD>
13) 1 10-4040-HE03 OIL DRAIN PLUG $3.07 $3.07
14) 1 41-4000-9956 OIL DRAIN PLUG WASHR $1.29 $1.29
15) 1 15-2050-SE01 RADIATOR CAP $12.13 $12.13
16) 1 23-6720-N236 FILTER AIR $17.61 $17.61
17) 2 32-329B-1524 BUSHING IDLER ARM $6.78 $13.56
18) 2 40717 WIPER BLADE $9.92 $19.84
19) 1 50-7020-9971 CLIP HOOD ROD $3.72 $3.72
20) 1 42-250B-8871 CAP GAS $9.83 $9.83

Total: $351.94

 

Is the pulsation dampner easy to check? I'll search a bit.

 

dreamingofRX7! Before you do anything else go to the 1"st Gen R-7 FAQ" Page thread. There is a link there for the 1985 Mazda Factory Service Manual (FSM). Bookmark it or better yet download it to your computer. This is an invaluble asset and the best way to learn about your car. When I bought my RX-7 14 years ago this link did not exist. I spent $85.00 for my FSM and it has paid for itself several times over. There is nothing wrong with asking questions and waiting for an answer from a Forum member but that same time spent in the manual will usually get you the answer your looking for. There is a reason that trochoid and rx7doctor always recommend using the "FSM". It is the best way to really learn about these cars and how to maintain them. You need to checkout Section 4B in the FSM. It covers the fuel injectors and the pulsation dampner. Your plan to drive around for a few days untill you figure out what is causing your "raw gas" smell could lead to you standing by the side of a road watching your RX-7 go up in flames. I'm done ranting now. Have a nice day!

 

More updates:

I found an old pulsation dampener in the box iof junk that came with the car. I checked the current one, saw no leaks. I dont smell fuel as much, it might have been that the car wasn't driven much in the last year. It seems my gas cap just doesnt get tight enough. I think it was replaced once and nothing is bent. But it just doesnt get real tight. I got another one on order to test.

Cleaned out lot of stuff under the hatch. The jack was there in its proper place but the tools were all loose. No wonder I've been hearing so much noise. I disconnected the wire from the auto antenna since its not even used anymore. Everytime I turned the radio on and off I would hear the motor running. I guess the last owner was too lazy to remove it also. I'll research and find how to remove it from underneath at some point.

All my rear panels have no screws, so I'll be out buying a lot of new screws today. Nothing looks wrong with the panels, I'll just reattach them. Found out I have no rear speakers and the wires were exposed. I taped them up for now.

I need to buy some tiny screws for my rear view mirror until I get a new one. The rear view mirror part itself has 3 snap tabs that go into the rear mirror housing. 2 of the tabs are broke. I can fix it temporarily by buying two tiny bolts to go thru some tiny holes on each side. It will hold it together. The light difusser that is the rear mirror housing cover also has broke tabs, I'll have to get one.

The plastic in my drivers side visor is cracked, so it's loose. Another thing on the list to try and find someday if this car turns out to be a keeper.

The radiator hoses and heater hoses are original so I'll be replacing those asap. Also the other 2-3 water hoses while I have it drained. I wasn't planning on doing the thermostat as I have no issues, but maybe I should.

When I get deep into the project, some of my wish list:

rear hatch seal
new door seals
sunroof seal
new shift boot w plate
upper window seals under the top moulding

 

Todays work is done.

Fixed my rear view mirror without having to get a new one. Drilled holes in the mounting plate and used tiny screw and nut to hold the rear view mirror to the mounting plate and light. Cost: $1.50 in screws.

Removed my power antenna, it was unbelievably difficult to get it out that tiny hole near rear hatch. Turns out the previous owner had a rubber antenna just bolted to the broken power antenna stud. I will still use a rubber one, but I'll do it properly. I dont know if anyone buys those used OEM antennas, but the motor on mine still works, as I heard it running every day.

Bought sheet metal screws for all my back panels, screwed down every hole. Took out my spare tire, I'm missing the hold down bolt. I'll research on the bolt size and probably use something universal. Cuz I don't like the big sagging hole in my rear hatch.

Not much else to do now until my big parts order arrives. Maybe a wax, but its pouring rain right now.

PS, the oil leak has not come back yet. Total cost was $1 for 1 couple o-rings.

 

Passenger side window adjustment work.

These are the most simple door internals I have worked on in a while. I can make a video about it if anyone needs to see what that area looks like.

Problem:

My passenger side window doesn't seem to seal up in the top section, so I started the investigation.

(Remove your door panel first, 3-4 screws, then pop out the bottom.)

First step, disconnect your window from the regulator:

This is two screws into the bottom of the window. The screws go into two white clips that slide over the bottom of the window. Both screws were still surprisingly tight. So after disconnecting, you pull the window up by hand to the top, and slide a screwdriver (wrapped in a rag) along side it to hold it. Be careful not to scratch your window.

Second step, remove your window regulator:

Now with the window out of the way you can work on your regulator. The regulator is held in with 8 bolts. 6 towards the front of the door and 2 in the rear of door. The regulator comes out easily through the bottom hole, just go slow.

Third step, evaluation:

All my regulators moving parts were a bit dry, but not terrible. So I lubed up all the rollers and sliders and put it back in. It didnt increase the SPEED of the window much at all.

I then found another issue:

My window "runner" was all flattened in some spots, thus messing up the window travel. It had been that way so long is was permanent. I have ordered both inner and outer window moldings, and also a new window runner. The moldings were ok, but since I had it apart.. might as well. I also ordered some new door panel clips and the rubber sockets for them. After seeing how much regulators are, and considering mine still works.. I didn't order that part.

The bigger problem:

My window doesnt seem to be straight as it rolls up. The front part always seems to hang low. So the back of the window hits the top and the front has a 1/8" gap still. I don't see much adjustment available to fix this, as my regulator isn't very loose. I did see the front runner adjustment bolt, but its already all the way towards rear. Still, my front of the window isnt high enough.

Questions:

I will be searching about all this next, but if anyone has input:

Are the electric windows notoriously slow? Mine is steady, but seems a tad slow. Its not an issue of the regulator sticking as far as I know. I recall something about enlarging an adjustment slot somewhere, I'll check into that also.

I ordered these parts for this project:

1) 1 58-605C-8871 WINDOW CHANNEL $53.09 $53.09
2) 1 58-7910-8871 WINDOW SEAL $18.84 $18.84
3) 1 58-7810-8871 WINDOW SEAL $18.29 $18.29
4) 2 68-4210-FA56-11 DOOR LOCK TRIM $5.80 $11.60
5) 2 72-5020-8544 WINDOW GROMMET $4.53 $9.06
6) 3 58-9210-0208 DOOR PANEL CLIP $0.88 $2.64
7) 8 58-9220-0187 DOOR PANEL CLIP $1.95 $15.60
Total: $129.12

 

Last night I installed all my new pedal pads, new gas cap, (which finally fit tight), front wiper blades, hood rod clip and an inner door handle trim. I got the round air filter by accident which sucks. I might just buy a K&N, I dont feel like waiting another week again for a square one.

Today I installed my rear hatch shocks (with rear wiper, pain in the ***), and investigated my idler arm. It looks like it was replaced recently, so I didnt use my idler arm bushings yet. I found my tension rod bushings are shot while I was under there so I'll prob order those soon, easy to replace.


I'll be installing all these window parts tomorrow. New window runner, inner/outer moldings. Hopefully my window works perfectly after that. I'll drill a new hole for my front adjustment if I have to, but new seals might fix it without doing that. Then I can get that passenger side door panel back on and that area of the car is done.

 

I like your style of methodically replacing\repairing your ride.

As far as the idler arm issue goes - replace it with a MOOG one.
It will be a permanent and superior repair.

 

I'm not looking forward to my water job. I have every hose now, and a thermostat. But no gasket, thats coming soon. I am not even breaking into the water pump right now, I tend to spend more money then I need to. No leaks right now and it runs under half temp always.

 

Well.. my passenger window work went CRAPPY... I installed my new runner, and iner/outer moldings. Sure, theyre tight against the window.. I also installed new white clips which hold the window to the regulator. I also redrilled my front runner adjustment backward like everyone else..

But my window still doesnt go up straight.. only thing left is a worn out regulator..

 

Ordered a new regulator for above.. just have to try the last part. If it still doesnt work I give up on that job and I'll unplug the window power.

Today:

I installed my winsheild upper molding back with the new weatherstrip attached. The weatherstrip sticks to the molding itself and costs about $15. (2 req for car). My weathstrip was gone, and there was a big hole there. I learned how to attach the molding snappers, and that the window seal itself can sometimes get in the way of the snappers seating properly. My molding is now back and snapped tight, with a nice weatherstrip back in place between the roof and molding.

It was a minor detail, but really stood out and looked crappy. Glad its fixed.

 

so today i did the water hoses sort of. I did the 4 hard ones in rear so far. 2 heater and 2 manifold. I also installed a new thermostat. I also removed my radiator for replacement. The drain **** was broken off, and it was wet also, so I just want to replace it while I have it out to make sure. Since the draincock had no seal, it was slowly dripping also. I also did my OMP o-rings and copper seals. I hope it fixes some sort of leak I may have had.

As soon as my radiator comes in I can reassemble everything and start driving it a bit. I'm sure my oil pan still leaks, but my OMP was caked thick, could have been mostly from there.

I dont enjoy this part of it.. I dont enjoy working on greasy engines getting filthy and bloody. What I will enjoy is cruising it after this work. I pray to god I dont have some new problem pop up after all this work. I just want to drive it a few weeks with no worries.

 

I'm surprised your oil cooler lines are fine. Most GSL-SE's I've seen usually leak oil from them in some point of it's life.