My 1983 RX7 project to date.
#2
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The current photos
[QUOTE=Schnoebdog;11986990]Here are the before pics from this Spring. I paid $1000 for it.
Primed and ready for paint.
New seat covers from racing beat.
I decided to spray dye the faded tan vinyl bits black.
Primed and ready for paint.
New seat covers from racing beat.
I decided to spray dye the faded tan vinyl bits black.
#5
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So I've
rebuilt the carb and installed it and it's runs but it sputters a lot when I've got the pedal slightly down and the secondaries aren't working. In the photo, the lever I'm pointing at moves when the cat is turned off but doesn't move when the engine is running. Is this how it's supposed to work? Thanks in advance for your help.
This only moves when the engine isn't running.
rebuilt the carb and installed it and it's runs but it sputters a lot when I've got the pedal slightly down and the secondaries aren't working. In the photo, the lever I'm pointing at moves when the cat is turned off but doesn't move when the engine is running. Is this how it's supposed to work? Thanks in advance for your help.
This only moves when the engine isn't running.
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#8
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#9
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#10
Lapping = Fapping
iTrader: (13)
Not really any idea. I always do mechanical secondaries these days with the required air bleed changes. Works perfectly every time. Your carb could have any number of problems at this point. Or not. It is possible that while you're driving, the secondaries ARE actually opening but because they come on some smoothly, and the rest of your setup is so restrictive (stock exhaust for example), you will never feel them.
These engines come alive when you free up the exhaust (long primary). Then the air filter. Then the carb (hogged primaries out with mech secondaries). Then the intake manifold (79 or old school with channels). Then the flywheel (light steel). Then ignition (direct fire). Then porting (no larger than 74 spec). This makes a perfect street driven car that should have come from the factory like that.
These engines come alive when you free up the exhaust (long primary). Then the air filter. Then the carb (hogged primaries out with mech secondaries). Then the intake manifold (79 or old school with channels). Then the flywheel (light steel). Then ignition (direct fire). Then porting (no larger than 74 spec). This makes a perfect street driven car that should have come from the factory like that.
#11
Lapping = Fapping
iTrader: (13)
The stock vacuum secondaries are load dependent. If the exhaust has a clogged cat, it will never accelerate quickly enough to put enough load on the engine to want to pull the secondary diaphragm box to open the secondaries. Maybe your diaphragm has a tear or some kind of leak. I don't know. I always remove them and block the hole in the main body. Then weld the linkage for boost but you could wire them easily. Plus it's reversible. Then you'll get a bog when they open until you do the Sterling accel pump mod (search) and the Jeff20B air bleed mod (search).
#13
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Well I reconnected my oil metering pump (good eye REPU!) and cleaned up my spark plugs but it still isn't running right.
It idles ok but it sputters real bad at 1500 to 3500 rpm or so and it struggles to rev up to 6000 rpm. All of this is in neutral btw.
I put in a new magnaflow cat in the spring but I think I've got an exhaust leak bc I've got massive exhaust stink going on.
It idles ok but it sputters real bad at 1500 to 3500 rpm or so and it struggles to rev up to 6000 rpm. All of this is in neutral btw.
I put in a new magnaflow cat in the spring but I think I've got an exhaust leak bc I've got massive exhaust stink going on.
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