duck

I tried getting my newly aquired parts car running last night.
The guy I bought it from didn't say much, except that it had been running but had NO power. He thought maybe the apex seals or carb.

The car was flooded, so I used a little MMO to get it going. It ran for about 3 or 4 mins before it ran out of gas (i think, the gauge was on empty).
Anyways, while it was running, I could not get it to rev (in nuetral) over 4k rpm.
It look like the plugs were nearly new. There was a good amount of smoke, but it was also -15 C out so it was hard to tell.
I took the leading plugs out after, the one from the front rotor was very black and and the rear looked much beter, like it had burned some of the ATF off.
I gave it another MMO treatment and am letting it sit till the weekend.

Any suggestions, carb (is it flooding or too lean), apex seals shot, or should I just let it rest in peace.... Looks like the guy who had it before tried a few things (new plugs).

Thanks

Keaponlaffen

It's hard to say... If the gas gauge was on empty, was the car just running on "fumes", because if there's not enough fuel left, the car won't rev, it'll start sucking air in. Try giving it about 10 litres of gas, then see if it'll run... My car has problems running as soon as the gas guage hits E .

The other thing to wonder is; does the car idle? If so, does it idle funny, like it's missing like crazy? If it idles perfectly, does it sound like a piston engine missing a piston when you step on the gas? How many kilometres does the motor have on it? You also have to remember that not too many rotaries like running nicely in the dead of an Alberta winter , especially ones that have been sitting for a while, as well as the fact that unless the engine is at full operating temperature, it's not good for it to be revved past 3K.

I would say if the motor has all new plugs, wires, the distributor isn't fried, and the fuel filter and pump are okay, that you are probably missing half an apex seal, or a corner seal. One way to tell is to pull the plugs, and disconnect the fuel pump, and crank the starter over. There should be 3 even "whoosh's". If they're uneven (like whoosh, phhpt, phhpt) it's an apex or a corner seal. Another way to test this is by pulling the plugs, making sure the key is off!!! , and getting a friend to help push the car in gear (like get it moving and then drop the clutch in 2nd gear ), then listen for the wooshes as the car is moving.

Hope this is all right, as I just woke up.....

Jeff

vic'srx-7

Hi Duck,

Try the atf thing again let it sit until the next chinook and then try it again. You must have moved alot of snow to get at the car.
I would also put in some methalhydrate in the tank when you put in the fuel to help take care of the condensation in the tank ( to many big words).
On a side note where did you get the MMO?

Vic

duck

Vic, I got the MMO at the Canadian Tire on Macleod Tr by Southland Dr.

I have a heated shop in which to work on the car (its outside).

Where do I get methalhydrate?

I put a whole lot of MMO in it, but it looked like a lot of it ended up on the shop floor
And who knows it I got it on all sides of the rotor.

Anyway, I am gonna try and get it going again on Saturday.

What plugs do you guys recommend?

vic'srx-7

Hi Duck,
You can get it at any gas station it is gas line anti-freeze. It works by removing the water from the fuel. I works really well.
I was thinking that if you ran the tank dry you may want to change the filter as it might have filled up with the crap in the bottom of the tank.

P.S. I just got a new exsaust from pick a part for $10.00 it has a pre-silencer and a new muffler (dynomax) it is from a wrecked silver '85.

Vic

Rotortuner

I wouldn't call the engine good or bad until you make sure you have all the water out of the gas. Then after that If you can fet it running and it idles then thats good but if it only runs on one rotor until 4000 rpm then takes off then its and apex or side seal. that means that at that rpm they "re seal" themselves whether cracked etc. unless it isn't even their. Other wise do the compression test should be 75 psi. +. Make sure and take the shrader valve out of the end. Do that test. I find that many times when an engine won't run goo it can realy trick you between ignition and carb stuff. Any ways good. Luck.

P.S. when you do get it started let it sit and idle and make sure you get it good and "cleared out", then do the test when it's warm.

CJG

duck

Vic,
was there anything else *good* on that RX7 at PYP? Like a motor (lol).
What about stock wheels (12A 4X110)?
I was already thinking about droppin' by there

vic'srx-7

Hi duck,
I wouldn't trust the motor on that car as it had been hit VERY hard on the passenger side but ther is a "85 GSL their with what I would expect is a good motor (may need to dry it out inside.
also it still has the LSD rear end in it....ie disk brakes.

Vic

duck

mmmm, disk/lsd rear, must have for may race car.

But it is a little chilly. How long does it take to remove a diff assembly?

I will wait and see on the motor...

Winnipeg85GSL

If you always need to get a motot i can always sell you mine. Its a 12A from an 85 GSL 108000 original kilometres. Comes with a 5 speed. All works perfect, still has airpump for emissions control, always removable, and all is in working order. I thought before that something was wrong with it but resolved that problem with a 5$ fuel filter so now all is good. Its always cheaper than a rebuild or new engine at around 850 bucks.

SIX TWO SLEEPER

How much are a set of apex seals? 60 bucks, 75 bucks USd?

850cdn is still more than that...

Basically, take out the motor. take apart the motor. Change apex seals. Rebuild carburettor. Re-assemble motor. Put carb on motor. Put motor in car. Turn key. Drive. Enjoy!.

SIX TWO SLEEPER

How much are a set of apex seals? 60 bucks, 75 bucks USd?

850cdn is still more than that...

Basically, take out the motor. take apart the motor. Change apex seals. Rebuild carburettor. Re-assemble motor. Put carb on motor. Put motor in car. Turn key. Drive. Enjoy!.

mhorvath

Hey guys,
I have a rebuilt 12a (1983) with not too many miles on it that has been giving me some weird misses at idle, much like described in one of the previous posts. Drives fine, nice and smooth up and down the rpms. Don't know whether the issue is Carb, timing, or something internal (oh no!). Feel like I'm running around in circles with all the adjustments right now and don't really know what else to do.

RB Carb, RB Headers.

Can anybody give me an idea what may be going on here?

Thanks much.

vic'srx-7

Well Duck it seems to take less time in the cold probably because you don't waste any time.
I imagine you could do it in an hour or so with a couple of guys, just remember you will probably need the brake booster as well as the brake lines and any porpotioning valves but not really that hard to do,

Vic

duck

The car was bought as a parts car for my race car. I was surprised to see that the body had only minimal rust and that it had an SE suspesion/hub/wheels on it (can't use on race car).

I still need to go thru the car to see that it is road worthy. I think the right rear caliper is siezed as the car is VERY hard to push and it was groining from there, also there maybe excessive rust on the rear suspension/diff mount.
If it runs and I can drive it, bonus otherwise I will part it out.

duck

It wouldn't start...

So I pulled the leading plugs one at a time and buzzed the starter. The front rotor sounded okay. The rear was almost quite, no apex seals at all?

Pele

iTrader: (28)

If you already soaked it in the magic red stuff, then it's time for a rebuild. You know what that means.

PORT JOB!!!!!!!!