Slammed_GSL Rotarx7 Here's a couple shots of the panhard bar and mounts. The bar itself is almost exactly 36" long. About as long as I could get it. Can't wait to try it out.

 

Perfect shots, I can do that.....
I'll ping you if I need any other info. Nice job on your car.....you must live a home with the parents right?
LOL!

 

Ha HA ha! YA! Anyway, it's really easy, Most of it is planning and research. I made the Roll center so I could adjust it from about 6-10" in the rear depending on the ride heights I choose. if you need anything as far as what I did or where I located stuff. No prob, I'll try to help. Same goes with any other members too..

 

I might of skimmed over this part ... but which company did you get your panhard bar from?

 

very impressive work. can't wait to see the finished product.

 

That looks like a very stout panhard bar. Is this homemade or the G-Force unit. I have a noname brand one sitting in the shop that I've been debating about installing it. Then there's the question of going all out and installing the tr-link too.

 

dj55b The panhard setup is my own design.

 

I made it decently stout. It's 1" .120 wall with 1/2" high quality rod ends. it's a little over built for a 2400lb car, but better than underbuilt.
The 3rd link is 1 1/4" .120 wall with 5/8"thread-1/2"eyed heims.

 

very very nice!!! something new on my wish list

 

How 'bout some pics of the tri-link too?

 

I'm not sure how I managed to miss this thread, but damn you do awesome work. Makes my build look so amateur.....

I'd like to see more pictures of the inside of the car, partiuclarly the bracing I see in the bin area.

Can't wait to see it completely assembled.

 

Here is my latest project. I've only made one so far just the left light cover. It was originally going to be a prototype/experiment but it turned out great, and I'm gonna use it. If all goes well I'll make my other one tonight. Only thing I have left to do is make some mounting brackets that will use the two upper nuts and lower nut on the radiator support. i'll just slot the brackets and use some washers and what not so the cover's sit right over the lights. The lights are hella's and not the ones I should've gotten but they'll work for now and look good.. I should've researched more before buying, but I fabbed sheetmetal boxes and then made cutouts on the radiator support and welded those in, so I can acommodate lot's of different lights if I wish. All in all they look great and are light. I used ABS, plexi and plastic glue. Worked good. Let me know what you think.

I'm gonna get some more pictures of the 3 link and bracing up soon. Thanks

 

wow, your car is KILLER. im in south dakota and its too bad you live to far away i would LOVE to get a set of flares similar to these unfortuntely i dont have an english wheel to make the flares with, however i will be trying this soon (i will fit 15x9 on the front if its the last thing i do!)

 

im definately not going to be the only person to ask this, but do you want to make another set of those lights? if youre interested, pm me.

 

Certainly a great upgrade for a gen 1 RX7, should improve night time aerodynamics also. Your talent never seems to stop. I think this unit has market potential.

 

im in the missoula area too. Do the rx7 owners in missoula ever meet. I have friends with an fb and an fc and i got a fb. The rx7 ppl in missoula gotta get together some time

 

The lights look sweet! Any more additional notes on how you made the plastic buckets? Keep up the excellent work, I am building an 85 right now and am using your research/work/ideas to complete it.
You mentioned that you didn't like the hellas, why not, they look cool?

Thanks,
Devin

 

Wow man! No really holy **** that is fukin BADASS!!! More shots of the paint job with wheels and flares!!!! Please.

 

where did you get those lights? Are those the really explensive ($250 a piece) projector lights? or something else. I want to do the same thing.

 

rotaxrave TThe light are off of ebay. Hella Optilux's. They were about 50$ a pair. But I would just get some good projectors the first itme. These are just auxilary driving lights.


devincox The plastic light covers are made from general purpose grade .125 inch black ABS. You can get it on the internet or from a plastics supplier in yoiur area. The clear is just plexi. Lexan would be ideal, but plexiglass worked good. In another thread I believe it was Aussiemg who mentioned that you can form the plexi by using your factory steel popup covers and putting the plexi on top and in the oven. I tried this and it works perfectly. Gives the exact curve you need in the plexi. Just make sure you leave about an inch of extra plexi all the way around the steel cover. this allows for a nice even "droop' and curveing of the plexiglass over the light cover. I found 200F for about 7-9 minutes is usually adequate. Anything hotter is baaad. Super important!!! Make sure your factory covers are very clean and bump/chip free. If they aren't you'll end up with those same marks in the plexi. I promise. I used Acrylic platic weld and ABS weld to put them together. And used a heat gun to bend the ABS so it would stay once it cooled.

The Hella's look great. They are just their cheaper line of Optilux, auxilary driving lights. I didn't do my research before purchasing. But they work ok. They aren't projectors so I'm sure they are illegal for highs and lows.


trochoid
Here's a few. You can see the plateing on the top of the rear end i used to weld the 3rd link bracket too. I felt more comfortable welding with the roundness of the rearend then rather perpendicular to it. Then the brackets arch around the back and tie into some more plates. I figured I could use the extra beef because of the 300lbft tq. I will be running through it.

XLNDRVRThe fitment for the rear bumper and rubber endcaps was straight forward and looks great as you can see in the pic. The fronts will be a little trickier for me because my fenders are pulled out alittle bit and some angles changed, but if you kept everything the same it should be just as easy as the rear bumper to make it fit. It looks really good and the center trim on the bumper is actually .125 thick plastic painted and siliconed on. it's way lighter and cleaner looking I think.

brandon davisThanks man. Preciate it. there is a picture of my favorite angle below. I really like it.

 

Some more shots. Strut tower brace I made. I really like it. It is light. No extras ang goes straight across from tower to tower to minimize ofsett which would result in flex. And flex is baaaaad. Still fits under a stock hood too.
New brake rotors, painted calipers, and SS brake lines. Rad.

 

Front chin i'm makeing from black ABS plastic. It looks so much better in person, but it still is cool in digital too. I used .125 for the "wrap around" and .250 for the bottom piece. ABS weld was used to stick it together and then I lightened it by cutting holes from the bottom. It is pretty dang ridgid, and light. Cheap too and looks race, but with some old school flare to it. Just what I like.

 

Jesus christ, you're talented. You should finish this car, drive to Hollywood, and get yourself a TV show, "Japanese Hot Rod" or something. Awesome work.

 

Don't tell anyone, but I just spooged... that SA is 9 part win and 1 part awesome sauce. Beautiful color beautiful work, great parts, great fab... your car owns.

 

thats a piston engine right?