miss at idle? or just rotary
#1
miss at idle? or just rotary
So my car runs awesome, no questions there. I planned on doing plugs and wires tomorrow and coolant flush and was just listening to it idle from outside and I noticed there was a slight miss every ten seconds or so. I do have an exhaust leak bad enough to cause the popping sound on down shift and glass packs in the exhaust which sound like crap but checking the boards it seems the gsl se can develop an idle issue? Noticed there was no cover on my air box so another possibility. I can post a video if need be I was just curious. Performance is fine otherwise
#2
The definitive GSL-SE engine idle page: SOLVING GSL-SE IDLE PROBLEMS
Also, I pretty much figured that's normal after putting 222k miles on my -SE recently. I had to park it a few weekends back however, as it left me stranded at a movie theater after it wouldn't start - lost nearly all compression, and had to be pull-started then I drove it home and parked it.
Engine swap coming up, but I won't be surprised if the replacement 13b doesn't idle glass smooth like fresh from the factory floor. I have yet to see a 13b that doesn't skip a beat at idle from time to time,
Also, I pretty much figured that's normal after putting 222k miles on my -SE recently. I had to park it a few weekends back however, as it left me stranded at a movie theater after it wouldn't start - lost nearly all compression, and had to be pull-started then I drove it home and parked it.
Engine swap coming up, but I won't be surprised if the replacement 13b doesn't idle glass smooth like fresh from the factory floor. I have yet to see a 13b that doesn't skip a beat at idle from time to time,
#3
The definitive GSL-SE engine idle page: SOLVING GSL-SE IDLE PROBLEMS
Also, I pretty much figured that's normal after putting 222k miles on my -SE recently. I had to park it a few weekends back however, as it left me stranded at a movie theater after it wouldn't start - lost nearly all compression, and had to be pull-started then I drove it home and parked it.
Engine swap coming up, but I won't be surprised if the replacement 13b doesn't idle glass smooth like fresh from the factory floor. I have yet to see a 13b that doesn't skip a beat at idle from time to time,
Also, I pretty much figured that's normal after putting 222k miles on my -SE recently. I had to park it a few weekends back however, as it left me stranded at a movie theater after it wouldn't start - lost nearly all compression, and had to be pull-started then I drove it home and parked it.
Engine swap coming up, but I won't be surprised if the replacement 13b doesn't idle glass smooth like fresh from the factory floor. I have yet to see a 13b that doesn't skip a beat at idle from time to time,
#4
LongDuck likes to drive his car a long time. The GSL-SE will run perfect until the apex seals are 5.5mm or less, if everything else is in order, and him being who his is, everything was.
I'd have swapped that engine out a long time ago, for peace of mind, and because rotaries are about the easiest motors to swap, with only ACVW being simpler. His old rotor housings might still have been good. Who knows how they are now with a possible broken apex seal. I hope LD posts pics.
The GSL-SE engine is the longest lasting rotary Mazda ever built. It dosen't have chrome wear problems of a 12A and early 13B, and it doesn't have planned obsolescence problems of the FC.
I'd have swapped that engine out a long time ago, for peace of mind, and because rotaries are about the easiest motors to swap, with only ACVW being simpler. His old rotor housings might still have been good. Who knows how they are now with a possible broken apex seal. I hope LD posts pics.
The GSL-SE engine is the longest lasting rotary Mazda ever built. It dosen't have chrome wear problems of a 12A and early 13B, and it doesn't have planned obsolescence problems of the FC.
#5
LongDuck likes to drive his car a long time. The GSL-SE will run perfect until the apex seals are 5.5mm or less, if everything else is in order, and him being who his is, everything was.
I'd have swapped that engine out a long time ago, for peace of mind, and because rotaries are about the easiest motors to swap, with only ACVW being simpler. His old rotor housings might still have been good. Who knows how they are now with a possible broken apex seal. I hope LD posts pics.
The GSL-SE engine is the longest lasting rotary Mazda ever built. It dosen't have chrome wear problems of a 12A and early 13B, and it doesn't have planned obsolescence problems of the FC.
I'd have swapped that engine out a long time ago, for peace of mind, and because rotaries are about the easiest motors to swap, with only ACVW being simpler. His old rotor housings might still have been good. Who knows how they are now with a possible broken apex seal. I hope LD posts pics.
The GSL-SE engine is the longest lasting rotary Mazda ever built. It dosen't have chrome wear problems of a 12A and early 13B, and it doesn't have planned obsolescence problems of the FC.
#7
If I turbo it I doubt I will last another 20k. But I will have hopefully learned to rebuild the engine fully myself by then. Being I drive to the grocery store and for the occasional head clearing drive that's about it. I work from home now so 20k would still be quite a while for me.
Trending Topics
#8
Jeff's right - this was the original engine from when my dad bought the car off the showroom floor back in 1984 and it's been babied all of it's life. I've owned the car for about 15 years now, and knew it's entire history, obviously.
When I pull this engine (which still ran fine to get me home - and I wasn't babying it!), I'm sure I'll find that the oil control rings are bypassing some compression, the side seals and apex seals are likely worn enough to lose compression, and generally the engine has just gotten tired. I don't want to run it much more until I get it apart for the simple fact that I plan to rebuild it and want to be sure it doesn't throw an apex seal and kill one of the housings.
I'll be sure to post pictures then, but it'll definitely be in the fall when it cools off around here. Take care,
When I pull this engine (which still ran fine to get me home - and I wasn't babying it!), I'm sure I'll find that the oil control rings are bypassing some compression, the side seals and apex seals are likely worn enough to lose compression, and generally the engine has just gotten tired. I don't want to run it much more until I get it apart for the simple fact that I plan to rebuild it and want to be sure it doesn't throw an apex seal and kill one of the housings.
I'll be sure to post pictures then, but it'll definitely be in the fall when it cools off around here. Take care,
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
ncds_fc
New Member RX-7 Technical
1
08-15-15 10:06 AM