milky discharge?
12-30-05, 05:04 PM
#1
emissions r teh sux
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milky discharge?
man......so after all that **** yesterday i took the rex out and drove it for about 45 minutes. when i got home and turned it off everything sounded fine, but 45 minutes later i went to start it and i had lost compression. easy fix right? wrong.
i pulled the plugs and instantly i could tell it flooded as the rear plugs were covered in fuel. so i pulled all 4 plugs and manually cranked the engine to let some of the excess fuel out. when i did this i noteced a coffee with lots of cream colored discharge coming from the bottom spark plug location of my front rotor.
i cleaned it up and did the mmo trick to try and restore compression and tried to fire it up. still spun like there was no compression so i removed the plugs again and my lead plug from the front rotor was covered witht he same coffee and cream colored discharge. the trailing plug was fine so i really don't know whats wrong. can someone help me with this?
i have pics but im waiting for my friend to send them to my e-mail. they are phone pics, but thats cuz i don't have a camera.
i pulled the plugs and instantly i could tell it flooded as the rear plugs were covered in fuel. so i pulled all 4 plugs and manually cranked the engine to let some of the excess fuel out. when i did this i noteced a coffee with lots of cream colored discharge coming from the bottom spark plug location of my front rotor.
i cleaned it up and did the mmo trick to try and restore compression and tried to fire it up. still spun like there was no compression so i removed the plugs again and my lead plug from the front rotor was covered witht he same coffee and cream colored discharge. the trailing plug was fine so i really don't know whats wrong. can someone help me with this?
i have pics but im waiting for my friend to send them to my e-mail. they are phone pics, but thats cuz i don't have a camera.
12-30-05, 05:16 PM
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emissions r teh sux
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so am i looking at an atkins rebuild do you think? or would i possibly be able to fix it on my own. this is my only car right now. i am currently borrowing my dad's old 77 f150 with a 460 to get around and mileage is a problem (im getting about 6 in town and 8-10 on freeway).
12-30-05, 05:18 PM
#6
That's why I asked him to check the oil, it almost sounds like he has coolant in the oil and a bad oil seal in the rear rotor. If the oil is good, then it probably is a coolant seal.
From the thread tittle, I thought it might be an STD.
Btw, you can e-mail pics to yourself from your phone.
From the thread tittle, I thought it might be an STD.
Btw, you can e-mail pics to yourself from your phone.
12-30-05, 05:20 PM
#7
emissions r teh sux
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aye, i could, but im too poor to have my own phone. i had my roomie take the pics for me. i took a pic of the plug as well as the discharge leaking from the trailing plug hole.
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12-30-05, 05:37 PM
#12
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i do have green coolant but its a really light color like coffee with lots of cream. there wasn't really any green to it. what specialty tools will i need to do the rebuild myself? i know i will still have to take it and get it balanced, but if i learn as much as possible now, then i stand a better chance at fixing it later on too.
12-30-05, 05:46 PM
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argggg...........this sucks......i really loved this car too.....
oh well, to be honest i expected even less from it as the original owner ded MINIMAL maintainence for 22 years. thank you for your help guys. i will keep you updated and try to lend advice where i can even though my rex is out of commission. i really like this community. you guys have helped me much more than the guys at nissan forums ever could have hoped to do.
now, if you will exuse me im going to go get a bottle and drink with my rx.
oh well, to be honest i expected even less from it as the original owner ded MINIMAL maintainence for 22 years. thank you for your help guys. i will keep you updated and try to lend advice where i can even though my rex is out of commission. i really like this community. you guys have helped me much more than the guys at nissan forums ever could have hoped to do.
now, if you will exuse me im going to go get a bottle and drink with my rx.
12-30-05, 08:53 PM
#16
FB+FC=F-ME
Theres no need to worry about balancing.So long as you dont change rotors or counterweight/flywheels,the engine is factory balanced,ready to rebuild and run.All the machine work is done on stationary parts of the engine.
A soft seal replacement might get you running again,but you have to be very careful to inspect every little inch of the insides of the engine.Its very common for coolant to leak,not because of a seal failure,but from the housings themselves erroding away.This is due to corrosion between the dissimilar metals the rotary engine is made from.....aluminum againt iron against aluminum,ect....
Not changing your coolant regularly will exacerbate the situation.Overheating,even once will also cause the seals to fail,even without any housing errosion,because the housings will warp.If the iron or aluminum housings are pitted,erroded or warped,changing the rubber seals will only delay another failure.
Rotary engine building/rebuilding is not extremely complicated,theres very little to put together since they are mechanically simple.The secret is in the inspection of parts and measurement of tolerances.Thats what makes or breaks a rebuild.Using old parts is OK,but you have to be absolutely sure they are acceptable before reusing them.
A soft seal replacement might get you running again,but you have to be very careful to inspect every little inch of the insides of the engine.Its very common for coolant to leak,not because of a seal failure,but from the housings themselves erroding away.This is due to corrosion between the dissimilar metals the rotary engine is made from.....aluminum againt iron against aluminum,ect....
Not changing your coolant regularly will exacerbate the situation.Overheating,even once will also cause the seals to fail,even without any housing errosion,because the housings will warp.If the iron or aluminum housings are pitted,erroded or warped,changing the rubber seals will only delay another failure.
Rotary engine building/rebuilding is not extremely complicated,theres very little to put together since they are mechanically simple.The secret is in the inspection of parts and measurement of tolerances.Thats what makes or breaks a rebuild.Using old parts is OK,but you have to be absolutely sure they are acceptable before reusing them.
12-31-05, 07:30 PM
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Originally Posted by Arockrx7
R.I.P. keep on the dream. Rotary for life.
Sorry to hear about that. now the question is: during the rebuild, do you streetport? I think. . yes.
Sorry to hear about that. now the question is: during the rebuild, do you streetport? I think. . yes.
i was thinking yes but im still undecided as i live in CA, have no smog tech buddies, and i dont have the money to pay any of the techs off. What exactly would it do to my smog readings if i ported it?
im glad to hear that i don't have to balance it for this...now its just finding a vertical engine stand for a low price. any specialty tools i will need to pick up?
12-31-05, 08:12 PM
#20
FB+FC=F-ME
No special tools really.
Basic mechanics tool set.
The flywheel can be tough to get off without air tools.You can improvise or get a flywheel hold tool.
Some good digital calipers and a dial indicator to check for wear on the housings and seals.
A good magnifying glass to inspect the housings/seal grooves.
A multi-bin storage unit to sort and store the many,many seals and springs.
If you dont go crazy,you can pass CA smog with a streetport.It all depends on how agressive you port,the condition of your smog gear and how your carb is tuned.
With EFI,you can port a bit more since the ECU will trim fuel, full time.I pass easily with a moderate streetport (TII engines already have decent sized ports from the factory) and the stock TII EFI.
Basic mechanics tool set.
The flywheel can be tough to get off without air tools.You can improvise or get a flywheel hold tool.
Some good digital calipers and a dial indicator to check for wear on the housings and seals.
A good magnifying glass to inspect the housings/seal grooves.
A multi-bin storage unit to sort and store the many,many seals and springs.
If you dont go crazy,you can pass CA smog with a streetport.It all depends on how agressive you port,the condition of your smog gear and how your carb is tuned.
With EFI,you can port a bit more since the ECU will trim fuel, full time.I pass easily with a moderate streetport (TII engines already have decent sized ports from the factory) and the stock TII EFI.
12-31-05, 08:17 PM
#21
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i just wanted a mild streetport for now. its going to be a daily driver for a while but i want just a little more oomph out of it. something as mild as 5-10 HP would make me much happier.
question though....if i changed to the N rotors and had it balanced, would that give me a small horse boost? also would it increase my idle rpm since they are lighter?
question though....if i changed to the N rotors and had it balanced, would that give me a small horse boost? also would it increase my idle rpm since they are lighter?
12-31-05, 08:43 PM
#22
FB+FC=F-ME
If you change rotors,you dont rebalance,you just get the factory front and rear counterweights to match the rotors.So long as you match factory parts up correctly,you are automatically,safely balanced to 9K RPMS.
The front weight goes on the Eshaft under the front cover.The rear counterweight is either the entire 5-speed flywheel or the AT counterweight if your running an auto trans or aftermarket 5-speed flywheel.
That said,the 83-85 12A rotors arent any higher compression and the engines arent rated any higher HP than the earlier 1st gen 12A's.
The lighter weight (1/2lb each) of the rotors will give you a small bump in acceleration in the lower gears,but you can make a bigger difference by replacing the stock 26lb flywheel with an aftermarket 14lb or 9lb flywheel.Its a great mod that everyone with a rotary should do....
The front weight goes on the Eshaft under the front cover.The rear counterweight is either the entire 5-speed flywheel or the AT counterweight if your running an auto trans or aftermarket 5-speed flywheel.
That said,the 83-85 12A rotors arent any higher compression and the engines arent rated any higher HP than the earlier 1st gen 12A's.
The lighter weight (1/2lb each) of the rotors will give you a small bump in acceleration in the lower gears,but you can make a bigger difference by replacing the stock 26lb flywheel with an aftermarket 14lb or 9lb flywheel.Its a great mod that everyone with a rotary should do....
12-31-05, 08:51 PM
#23
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ok. this project is about to get REAL though. while im waiting for funds to do the engine im thinking about stripping damn near everything off and out of it and doing a proper restore/toy project. i know that my overrev buzzer don't work for one.....and i think there may be other electrical problems as well.
thank you for your help. i will keep you all updated on the status of this project. im so excited!! first restore/rebuild and im priveledged enough to be doing it to a rotary
thank you for your help. i will keep you all updated on the status of this project. im so excited!! first restore/rebuild and im priveledged enough to be doing it to a rotary
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