metallic clunking from trans when mech secondaries open and during WOT
10-25-10, 08:53 PM
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metallic clunking from trans when mech secondaries open and during WOT
could this be from my secondaries sticking and then slamming open from time to time? cuz when it does that i can feel the car jolt and i could see where that may not be good for it. I have another carb in the mail on its way to me right now so thatll be fixed soon.
10-26-10, 12:36 PM
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ok so i heard it this morning with the radio turned all the way down and it sound like a metal on metal scrape but its not constant even during wide open throttle. it almost sounds like a heat shield or somethin slightly rattling but inside the trans or the back of the engine. could this be coming from my flywheel or e-shaft?
10-26-10, 01:55 PM
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ok so i heard it this morning with the radio turned all the way down and it sound like a metal on metal scrape but its not constant even during wide open throttle. it almost sounds like a heat shield or somethin slightly rattling but inside the trans or the back of the engine. could this be coming from my flywheel or e-shaft?
10-26-10, 02:46 PM
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I don't think it's a heatshield I was just comparing the noise to that but I just did some carb tuning and haven't heard the sound since. Not sure how that makes sense but atleast it's gone lol
10-26-10, 06:54 PM
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had this same problem it was so anoying i couldnt trace it down i was running a 465 holley but when i removed the power train to paint the engine bay i made sure i spent alot of attention to detail and it never did it again
sorry i had no real thought to what it could be
sorry i had no real thought to what it could be
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11-06-10, 05:42 PM
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Ok so I've tried adjusting my timing but I can't hardly see the marks. Is there a way to remark them? Also would eliminating my trailing spark help and how would I go about that?
11-06-10, 11:28 PM
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Knocking (also called knock, detonation, spark knock, pinging or pinking) occurs when combustion of the air/fuel mixture in the rotor face combustion area starts off correctly in response to ignition by the spark plug, but one or more pockets of air/fuel mixture explode outside the envelope of the normal combustion front. The fuel-air charge is meant to be ignited by the spark plug only, and at a precise time in the rotors stroke cycle. The peak of the combustion process no longer occurs at the optimum moment for the three-stroke cycle. The shock wave creates the characteristic metallic "pinging" sound, and rotor combustion face pressure increases dramatically. Effects of engine knocking range from inconsequential to completely destructive. It should not be confused with pre-ignition, as they are two separate events.
11-07-10, 01:47 AM
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If the sound happens when you rev the car while its parked you can just loosen up the dizzy bolt and adjust it till the sound is gone that should do it.
If you cant get the sound while its parked adjust it little by little bring the wrench on a drive adjust and drive adjust and drive.
If you cant get the sound while its parked adjust it little by little bring the wrench on a drive adjust and drive adjust and drive.
11-07-10, 06:26 AM
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ok but i thought you said it wasnt in the timing? maybe i misunderstood. ok thanks ill give that a try although no wrench will be needed since the bolt sheered off a long time ago. also clockwise is advance and counter is retard right?
11-07-10, 12:08 PM
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how are you keeping the dizzy fom moving? i t may be jumping around if its not solid it could be the reason for you timing jumps.
11-07-10, 01:29 PM
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i dont like that even if it doesnt move easy, the idea of the single component that can destroy you egine with a exsplosion being not bolted in worrys me.
i would fix that asap.
i would fix that asap.
11-07-10, 01:59 PM
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ok i get paid friday so ill pick up some tools to pull out the stud and rethread it. i can do it that way right? also i think im gonna swap in the fb dizzy from my parts car into my sa daily driver so ill rethread it while i have the dizzy out.
11-14-10, 10:26 AM
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After some digging I think I may have figured it out! I was running the NGK BUR9EQ plugs and found some NGK BR8EQ-14 plugs from my other 7 that were still in pretty good shape. So I put them in and thats about the time I started hearing the noise. Apparently the BUR9EQ's are colder plugs and prevent pinging when your timing is advanced.
