dankekong

iTrader: (2)

Yes there are several threads/write ups available, however I'm looking for pictures and possibly other ideas on how mechanical secondaries can be hooked up.

I have done some serious searching only to find one thread with pics in it....and it's hard to tell what the arm on the secondaries is hooked to.

any help is welcomed...I definitely need some better/different pics in order to see what would work best. I was out looking at the dang thing after work, o say 2:30 in the mornin because I wanted to see if I could figure it out.

dankekong

iTrader: (2)

https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...al+secondaries

hoepfully some of these pics will help me out. All I really have to do is 'tie' the small bracket on the secondary arm to the arm/link just above/in front of it?

seems too easy, but maybe I will have some luck

Crispin38

iTrader: (3)

Many use safety wire, or even a paper clip. I welded them together.
At first I didn't understand, but once you do it's very very simple.

NanaimoRx-7

I used a short piece of one of the fatter strings from my guitar to tie them up. Has been good for a few years now.

82transam

iTrader: (18)

Yep its just that simple, even a sturdy ziptie will do the job. If you want to to the full mod you woudl remove the vaccum box and mod the A/P but just tying the linkages together is good enough for most of us

dankekong

iTrader: (2)

Just finished hooking them together...worked out. Drove the car...and it seems like no difference at all when driving. Yes theyre hooked together, yes theyre ALMOST tight (leaving enough room to return to idle).

Returning to vacuum operation.

82transam

iTrader: (18)

You don't feel added resistance in the pedal about halfway down with a sudden surge when you push past that?

dankekong

iTrader: (2)

Unfortunately I didn't get a chance to. I meant to edit my post. I'm still having my 'shuddering' or sputtering experience when I push the pedal more than 2/3 of the way or so. and once I get to about 5k rpms (in neutral) it also shakes and misfires/sputters.

Ive been over the entire ignition system, just rebuilt the carb, and nothing has helped this problem. I'm thinking it HAS to be fuel supply. Pump could be weak after 26 years?

82transam

iTrader: (18)

Definatly possible, a clogged, or clogging fuel filter could even cause it to cut out like that. Worth a look if nothing else.

dankekong

iTrader: (2)

First thing i changed...but +1 anyway

ztfdrake61

Not sure if it helps but i had the same thing going on before i pulled my engine. It would idle perfectly but after 3k it shuddered and shook like hell. I thought it was my filter at first, but after changing that it didn't improve. I had rebuilt the carb 2 months prior to this happening also. I never figured it out and eventually just replaced the motor. Waiting till i have some extra cash and weekend to tear it apart and learn how to put it back together.

dankekong

iTrader: (2)

so what youre saying is you installed a new motor....and kept EVERYTHING else the same as before? and now the problem is no longer existent? elaborate please

dankekong

iTrader: (2)

Oh and to those still watching this...I want to make sure I'm clear on what the mechanical secondaries are supposed to react like.

If hooked up in complete sync with the primaries....what happens from the second you push to pedal to full throttle? The difference should be noticed from idle up until the secondaries used to kick in correct?

Crispin38

iTrader: (3)

The beauty of the Mechanical secondaries is this:
1: you have complete controld of the butterflies, when your under 70% throttle you KNOW the primaries are the only butterflies open, and once you feel that slight tension and you start to stab the gas the other 30% you KNOW you're starting to play with the secondaries. Not only can you sure as helll feel it in terms of power but you can feel it with your foot! It has nothing to do with how it runs. When I open up the secondaries on my 12A you F^^king hang on. And it's loudddd.
2: With Vacuum you don't know WTF is going on with the butterflies, you can't feel anything, hear anything etc.
3: Mechanical secondaries allow you to remove the secondary diaphragm box and remove some unnessecary clutter on the carb. Further 'stripping' it. Making it simpler, look cooler, and you don't ever have to worry about the Vaccum secondary spring or diaphragm going bad. Cause good luck getting replacements.
4. You can get better mileage with MS, because you don't have to let the secondaries open. I know from experience, my DD 12A has MS's and I get better mileage over VS.
I can't see why you wouldn't run MS. I love em'. It's my absolute favorite Nikki Mod.

dankekong

iTrader: (2)

Thank you for all the info...and the explanation. I guess my last question would be how tight do you link the arms together? Im going to have them so that when at idle/car off they are in the same position relative to each other. No more tension than that....not tight either.

NanaimoRx-7

One of the unexpected abilities of mechanical secondaries for me was that it was easier to cruise up hills on the highway on the primary's, where before the load would start to open the vacuum secondary's and bog me down.

Crispin38

iTrader: (3)

I've never tried them tied together, I welded mine.