Does anyone know where I can get either:

1. Mazda's System Checker 83 (No. 49 G030 920) or equivalent

2. Mazda's Digital Code Checker (No. 49 G018 9A0) or equivalent

3. Mazda's Self-Diagnosis Checker (No. 49 H018 9A1) or equivalent ?

As some of you know I am needing this for my 1984 RX7 GSL-SE....which I BELIEVE is an OBD1...so if anyone knows of a DIFFERENT code checker I can use instead, please advise !

 

Well, you probably can from Mazda. Last I heard they were like $544!. But you don't need it. Search for "error code" in the 1st gen archive or look for threads tarted by me in the archive. I have a "how-to" on checking SE error codes. You can build a checker for about $3. It is real easy to do and works as well or better than the Mazda unit.

 

What he said!

I bought a $3 buzzer at Radio Shack that operates on 12volts, and attached to the ECU check points with spade lugs and hid it behind the passenger side kick carpet. Now, when I start the car I get one long bleet from the buzzer, normally, and if the ECU sees something it doesn't like it bleets out a code of longs and shorts,which is explained in the FSM. I keep a copy of that page in the car.

Works slick! I like the buzzer better than the LED lights I originally used. YMMV. The $500 mazda tester does both! Ooooooh, aaaaaah.

 

Thanks Guys

My car accelerates on its own...actually revs...until I turn the cruise control button off. If I am driving, and the cruise on/off is on, the car accelerates on its own. If I am in gear but not driving, clutch in, the car revs until I place it in neutral.

If the cruise on/off is off, I dont see the problem. At 1st I thought maybe the switch itself, but now I am steering to a possible vacuum leak.

I thought if I checked some codes I would see what is causing this as well as what other problems i might be having in other areas as well...

 

If you have a haynes manual, look at the electrical schematic that shows that circuit. Look and see what happens when the C/C switch is powered/turned on and go from there. Continue to eliminate one problem at a time. This may sound intimidating, but once you get started, you'll see that it may not be as hard as you thought. It can also be fun and educational at the same time :-)

If you have any questions with the schematic/troubleshooting, there are guys on the forum that are 100 times more knowledgeable than me that will help you. For real deep stuff, Kent (GSL-SE ADDICT) can probably help.

Mike

 

Grab the factory service manual from my signature to get the electrical diagram. There may also be a cruise control check list in there somewhere.

 

Been a month, I guess this is why I am in the "slow lane". I hope this is not too long...just want to explain the best I can here.

I assume the cruise control computer is fwd of the driver's side rear tire - possibly behind the storage bin on the same side inside the cabin? I was going to check that, but I don't have an ACC Checker (49 9200 010 ) Is that something I buy or is it already in the vehicle? (dumb ?)

I DID check the actuator inner cable for play and to see if it is frayed. It does NOT appear frayed, and the play appears to be within tolerance, however I did not actually measure it.

I also checked the resistance at the plug coming off the actuator solenoid, located on the firewall at the right fender. I don't know how everyone gets pics on here. Even at 1.2 MP, my pics are STILL too big for here - (SECRETS?) - Anyway I will describe the best I can. With the lead to the actuator unplugged, and looking at it with the flat side down, the pins are :

A C
B D

With a lead remaining constant on A, I checked resistance between the other terminals:

A - B = 35.2 OHMS
A - C = 52.5 OHMS
A - D = 25.5 OHMS

I understand the resistance is suppose to be between 25 - 35 OHMS. Does this tell me my actuator solenoid is bad, or am I jumping the gun? If I understand the schematics right, Does pin A go to the Main Switch and the others to the CC unit?

I don't want to waste $$ on the actuator if I don't need one, and I have only been able to find ONE (1) at a far away dealership. How can I test the cc unit w/out the ACC Checker?

Thanks in advance all. At least I am trying to learn right?

 

Wow.....does anyone know where I can even buy a new actuator? Seems impossible to find!

 

Don't know about getting a new one. Best to get a used. People part cars or remove their CC all the time.

 

Just a correction before I proceed. Our cars are not OBD1. That did not come out till the 90's.

You have multiple problems here.

It could be a combination of the Cruise computer being bad and or the combination switch (Multi function switch behind wheel) defective.

Before the cruise can work(after you depress the main button in the dash) the button on the combo switch must be depressed to actuate the function. If that button is not releasing internally and keeping the circuit completed the cruise will stay on.

However since our cars are equipped with a clutch switch that disengages the cruise when the pedal is depressed it leads to believe that their may or may not be multiple issues.