Mark II
08-11-02, 10:38 PM
#26
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Location: Saskatoon, SK & Montreal, PQ
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I'm still missing it, Mark. Bare with me, I'm a dumbass army guy. Well, dumbass former army guy. Now I'm a dumbass Hollywood type (even worse! *L*)
I still don't see the cupholder in that interior.
Are any other earlier FB or even SA owners interested in the slideout drawer-type holder?
I still don't see the cupholder in that interior.
Are any other earlier FB or even SA owners interested in the slideout drawer-type holder?
08-12-02, 01:34 AM
#32
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Join Date: Nov 2001
Location: Kamloops BC Canada
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Jeremy - That's the spot I utilized for my driving light and fuel pump cut switches... slapped a nice piece of stainless in there, two chromed switches, and hooked 'em up. Oh, and I used the ashtray illumination light as the indicator for the driving lights 
I think my interior looks pretty decent...
I also cut out the largest coinholder in the shift area for my electric fan switch... used an old headlamp up switch from an '83, and it fit perfectly... just cut out the bottom of the coinholder, and the top was the perfect size... it was like it was meant to be.
Jeff
edit - you could make a cupholder to go in the little storage cubby under the stereo... that'd be ideal, but it'd be pretty hard to figure out where to mount the sides to?
I think my interior looks pretty decent...
I also cut out the largest coinholder in the shift area for my electric fan switch... used an old headlamp up switch from an '83, and it fit perfectly... just cut out the bottom of the coinholder, and the top was the perfect size... it was like it was meant to be.
Jeff
edit - you could make a cupholder to go in the little storage cubby under the stereo... that'd be ideal, but it'd be pretty hard to figure out where to mount the sides to?
Last edited by Keaponlaffen; 08-12-02 at 01:36 AM.
08-12-02, 09:51 AM
#33
Originally posted by Keaponlaffen
edit - you could make a cupholder to go in the little storage cubby under the stereo... that'd be ideal, but it'd be pretty hard to figure out where to mount the sides to?
edit - you could make a cupholder to go in the little storage cubby under the stereo... that'd be ideal, but it'd be pretty hard to figure out where to mount the sides to?
The New Porsches have them like that. Real Nice too.
This picture is not the one I am referring to either.
08-12-02, 11:55 AM
#34
Tennis, anyone
Those designs are not the greatest,and would not cut
in to much to the passanger side,,there's room.
Heres another drawing, it's your design for a drawer or
tray idea,the red lines would be material to be removed,
and the purpel lines are the 'rails' or 'track' for it to slide
on,,or travel,,It's still your mark I and mark II designs.
Wow,,,we just went full circle,,i think i'm dizzy,,Lol
Anyway,,,as you were killer,,... Lol
If you ever need drawings in blueprint format let me know
i can whip them up in a minute.
in to much to the passanger side,,there's room.
Heres another drawing, it's your design for a drawer or
tray idea,the red lines would be material to be removed,
and the purpel lines are the 'rails' or 'track' for it to slide
on,,or travel,,It's still your mark I and mark II designs.
Wow,,,we just went full circle,,i think i'm dizzy,,Lol
Anyway,,,as you were killer,,... Lol
If you ever need drawings in blueprint format let me know
i can whip them up in a minute.
08-12-02, 01:08 PM
#37
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yeah, but I don't like blaring "lookit whut I have for sale" right off the bat - I'm more of a "Here's the info on it... oh, you want one to? I just happen to have extra" sort.
Anyhow, just pop in to http://www.wigglepup.com/gear/images...cupholder2.jpg and pick which type you want. I only made 20 of each as a limited run and got my buddy in **** for cutting the stuff on the laser burn table when there were $100,000 orders waiting to go through there so this'll probably be it
Still about a dozen of each style left though.
Anyhow, just pop in to http://www.wigglepup.com/gear/images...cupholder2.jpg and pick which type you want. I only made 20 of each as a limited run and got my buddy in **** for cutting the stuff on the laser burn table when there were $100,000 orders waiting to go through there so this'll probably be it
Still about a dozen of each style left though.
08-12-02, 01:34 PM
#38
Old [Sch|F]ool
Originally posted by jeremy
actually the sa has a good spot were the ashtray normally resides to make a cupholder. i was going to cut some metal at work to fit in there on our plasma machine but was laid off before i could.
actually the sa has a good spot were the ashtray normally resides to make a cupholder. i was going to cut some metal at work to fit in there on our plasma machine but was laid off before i could.
08-12-02, 01:34 PM
#39
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Join Date: Apr 2002
Location: Lincoln, NE; Cambridge, MA
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I may be just stupid, but I only see one cup holder assembly. My car (an '84 GS) has a pioneer 1 DIN aftermarket head unit mounted in the highest position, and a storage pocket taking up the rest (although there are 1/8" gaps top and bottom, and a 1/2" or so spacer bar between the head unit and the storage bin). Hopefully this information helps. Email me at kc0abh@hotmail.com if you need to.
08-12-02, 01:38 PM
#41
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Damn, i just noticed that could have been a typo, 'cause the "e" key is right next to the "s" key. We should seriously start using "miatae", though!
08-12-02, 01:56 PM
#42
ok here's what i have. this would bolt onto the sa ashtray's base with the plastic removed and the grate taken off. the only problem i see right now is what material to use as the if the stock screws and mounting location are used, a 1/4" material is needed not to have the screws stick out the top. openings are maxed at 2.75" and set at 3.375" apart. i really liked manntis' idea of the foam so it can adjust to different sizes. however i haven't gathered any cups and cans in the last hour to check on foam cut sizes so i just through it on there for impression. peejay, if you know what years of the miata that would be really helpful. i haven't really seen them in junkyards around here though. anywho, here are some renderings.
08-12-02, 03:18 PM
#44
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I use 3" holes in the stainless and 2.5" holes in the foam. On my model the foam runs the whole length/bredth of the metal for better adhesion and more resistance to tearing or separation.
A few of you have emailed me saying "where's the cupholder? I only see a stereo and blank DIN slot". The "din slot" is actually a cubby hole, 5" deep and lined with black rubberized foamcore. The cupholder is that strip of stainless at the bottom that sticks out slightly - it's a drawer-type, only visible as a cupholder when open
A few of you have emailed me saying "where's the cupholder? I only see a stereo and blank DIN slot". The "din slot" is actually a cubby hole, 5" deep and lined with black rubberized foamcore. The cupholder is that strip of stainless at the bottom that sticks out slightly - it's a drawer-type, only visible as a cupholder when open
08-12-02, 04:36 PM
#47
Tennis, anyone
That thing under the ash tray is a stock 1982 mazda
tape deck.I also have the 'cubby' that replaces the deck.
Not that many choices to place a drawer holder. right
under the 'cubby' or right above it,either way there
are still 2 switches, rear window defog, headlight retractor, and the clock, if the can-cup sloshes, or sweats gravity says,,,straight down..but anyway why
nit-pick it to death. I'll see if i can produce something
along the line of your mark I-mark II designs for an
80-83 dash... How did you bend the stainless, and what
holds it together,tack welds,spot welds, rivits,screws,
JB weld,gum,spit, ****,hair spray,,?????Lol Lol
What you have done,looks like the car came that way.
and should have too,,,well done !! i'm out..
tape deck.I also have the 'cubby' that replaces the deck.
Not that many choices to place a drawer holder. right
under the 'cubby' or right above it,either way there
are still 2 switches, rear window defog, headlight retractor, and the clock, if the can-cup sloshes, or sweats gravity says,,,straight down..but anyway why
nit-pick it to death. I'll see if i can produce something
along the line of your mark I-mark II designs for an
80-83 dash... How did you bend the stainless, and what
holds it together,tack welds,spot welds, rivits,screws,
JB weld,gum,spit, ****,hair spray,,?????Lol Lol
What you have done,looks like the car came that way.
and should have too,,,well done !! i'm out..
08-12-02, 05:00 PM
#48
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The stainless face and drawer and aluminum chassis are all bent by an industrial die press to make crisp 90 degree bends. The facia is pressure-fit onto the aluminum chassus, the drawer is held in by foam pressure which allows the motion.
The only metal attachments are the two side flanges; originally I had laser-cut flanges bent out, but something was lost in the translation from my specs to the autocad artist and they ended up 1/4 inch too far back. I have riveted on replacements, using the originals as tensioners to keep the new flanges from pivoting on the centre rivet point. The foamcore pieces making up the upper and lower body of the cubby hole are screwed in place.It is further cemented into place by the rubberized coating I spray in there, giving the whole cubby a nice black textured seamless finish.
the stereo sits on the upper foamcore and is held in place by screws through the common t/n hole in the sides towards the rear of the stereo body.
All told there are 2 rivets and 10 screws in it, with no welds, epoxies, etc. The pressure-fit facia is what I'm most proud of, cutting down on the need for holes & fasteners
The only metal attachments are the two side flanges; originally I had laser-cut flanges bent out, but something was lost in the translation from my specs to the autocad artist and they ended up 1/4 inch too far back. I have riveted on replacements, using the originals as tensioners to keep the new flanges from pivoting on the centre rivet point. The foamcore pieces making up the upper and lower body of the cubby hole are screwed in place.It is further cemented into place by the rubberized coating I spray in there, giving the whole cubby a nice black textured seamless finish.
the stereo sits on the upper foamcore and is held in place by screws through the common t/n hole in the sides towards the rear of the stereo body.
All told there are 2 rivets and 10 screws in it, with no welds, epoxies, etc. The pressure-fit facia is what I'm most proud of, cutting down on the need for holes & fasteners