1st Generation Specific (1979-1985) 1979-1985 Discussion including performance modifications and technical support sections

manual window hard to roll up

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Old 12-09-03, 05:51 AM
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manual window hard to roll up

I have a 79 manual windows. The window is very hard to move up/down, but stays in the track,and goes up evenly. Pulled door panel, there is a channel with a bracket on a wheel that moves up when the window is raised. It appears the wheel does not roll, but drags in the channel. Are there any lube points I can access without removing the glass?_How hard is it to r and r the egulator. THANKS
Old 12-09-03, 08:25 AM
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I'd try some pb blaster on it?
Old 12-09-03, 08:52 AM
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With the pannel off, I spray white litheum grease on the channel you describe as well as the window track and the gear assembly. Look in at every angle and with the window up and down and partially (As the window moves It allows you to get to more spots). Spray ANY surface that moves and contacts another. After spraying run the window up and down AND help it by pulling up and down on the window itself,, to help take the strain off so you don't break the mechanism. Then do it again untill there is no binding. You will have to clean the window when you are done,, and the grease does not come off REAL easy,, but with several passes it will clean. Replacing the assembly is not hard, but with good lube and preventative lubing any time it starts to drag it should come back to life. I lube them as well as the locks and latches as part of winterizing. Always lube them as soon as you notice them dragging so as to prevent damage.
Old 12-09-03, 12:31 PM
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Once the door panel is off, removing the regulator and glass is a 5 minute job. Then look at the outboard side of the regulator and see if the little hole that the shaft turns in is egg-shaped from wear. If it is, the regulator will need to be replaced. I go to the junkyard and find a decent one by choosing the one with the least amount of side-play when I wiggle the handle. I usually take a handle with me, as window crank handles are the first thing to go. When I get the regulator home I clean it up real good, get all the old stiff grease out of it, and grease it with synthetic wheel bearing grease. After it's reinstalled and adjusted, I like to mount the handle so that it's at 2 o'clock when the window is rolled up.
Old 12-09-03, 01:10 PM
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So how hard is it to replace the window regulator? I'm a n00b, need step-by-steps.

I picked one up from PnP for like $2, but haven't gotten motivated to put it in yet.
Old 12-09-03, 02:04 PM
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I replaced mine in about half an hour. Really, it's only four or five bolts. The Haynes manual covers the job pretty thoroughly. The only part I didn't like was removing the door panel.
Old 12-09-03, 02:27 PM
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Pretty easy to replace, and then you get to tune it up so that the three degrees of freedom are corrected by the two bolts you have to work with. Fun. It's easy for anyone who's flown an airplane, but words can't describe it. My manual winders are like a feather. And smooth.

B
Old 12-09-03, 03:07 PM
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Thank you all for the great info! The nylon wheels can be turned by hand, but bind-up and slide when using the ww. I keep hearing grinding noises when raising and lowering window. I tried the lith spray and it helped, but after a few lowerings things bind-up again. Looks like time to replace the regulator.
Old 12-10-03, 03:07 PM
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RacerMike, That tip on the lith spray really paid off,I finally shot down the window channel right above the ww, let it sit overnight. This AM tried the ww and it goes up and down smoothly. Next step, drivers side.
Old 12-10-03, 04:30 PM
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Cool, preventative lubing (before drag) helps keep the wear down so the crank won't fail,,,but,,, they still may wear out (fairly common). If I have one out, or are replacing it, I too use synthetic grease (Amsoil) as Wankelguy says. I do it as part of winterizing because that's when the problem seams to occur more. I don't think the "stock" grease is as thin as the white litheum spray so I think it needs to be replentished occasionaly. Oh, and that plastic roller doesn't need to turn too much as long as it's sliding in a good supply of lube. If the crank shaft IS wormed out, you CAN get the spray to go into the gear as well. Wear eye protection though. Back spray in the eye is a bitch!! (yes, personal experience )
Old 12-10-03, 06:51 PM
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Here's another little tip that applies to the subject.

https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...egulators+last
Old 12-10-03, 09:06 PM
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aheadau

 
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I gotta spend more time here!
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