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Manual transmission, won't go in gear

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Old 08-15-11 | 08:08 PM
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rotordogg's Avatar
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From: Chagrin Falls, OH
Manual transmission, won't go in gear

1985 GSL-SE, 5 spd manual

When I bought it, the PO said the clutch needed to be bled in order to drive it. We bled it and it did drive although the clutch was very short. I bought it and trailored it home. I spent the last three months cleaning and replacing stuff on the engine with the engine out of the car. I put the engine back in and started it up today. But, it won't go in gear when the engine is running!


So to clarify, with the engine OFF, and the clutch engaged, I can move the gear shift through all 5 gears and reverse. With the engine RUNNING, I can not get it into ANY gear.

I can put it in 1st with the engine OFF, then start the engine and it won't come OUT of gear. I can drive it around in 1st but can't get it out of 1st.

I bled the clutch again and adjusted the clutch pedal to the furthest position. But it didn't help.

So I guess the pressure plate is NOT dissengaging? I ordered a new clutch/pressure plate/bearing and a new master/slave cylinder for the clutch. If there is anyting else this could be, please let me know!

-Scott
Old 08-15-11 | 08:21 PM
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DivinDriver's Avatar
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1) Check the clutch fork where it goes down into the trans; if it popped off the pivot, you're not getting any leverage when pressing the clutch.

2) Make sure the operating rod on the clutch slave is inserted right way around (not backwards) and is in the hole on the fork.

3) (I know, but you asked) Are you sure you put the throw-out bearing back on properly while the engine was out?

4) have someone operate the pedal while you measure the movement of the top end of the clutch fork.
Old 08-15-11 | 08:26 PM
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Sounds like the clutch isn't fully disengaging. I would also replace the soft line that goes from the master hardline to the slave cylinder, it's like $15-20 from Mazdatrix and you'll never need to worry about it again.
Old 08-15-11 | 08:35 PM
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I've had the same problem on a couple vehicle I've worked on and it sounds like a hydraulic problem. It's possibly the clutch master cylinder loosing pressure, or there is air getting sucked into the system. Unless you know the clutch needs replacing due to wear, I would start with the master and slave and see how that does.
Old 08-15-11 | 11:52 PM
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check your clutch pedal adjustment in the foot well! Make sure this is correct otherwise you will be unable to select gears!

Andrew
Old 08-16-11 | 05:46 AM
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Sorry to hear you're having issues Scott. Good advice so far. I think that it basically boils down to whether or not the clutch fork can be seen to move correctly.

If the fork moves correctly, then you probably have an issue with the clutch itself.

If the fork does not move correctly, then you have hydraulic issues.

Good luck!



.
Old 08-16-11 | 08:06 AM
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Thanks everyone! Yes, I am sure the throw out bearing was on correctly.

I did have my dad press the pedal while I watched and it looked like it was getting full leverage. I am going to look at the fork today. That soft line is a good idea as well.

One other thing to note is that the fluid in the master cylinder is pitch black. I tried bleeding it dry to flush out the fluid, but as soon as I poured fresh brake fluid inside, it turned black again.

I'll keep you all updated as soon as I get some parts in.

Thanks again!

-Scott
Old 08-16-11 | 08:26 AM
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Originally Posted by mazdaspeedrex
I've had the same problem on a couple vehicle I've worked on and it sounds like a hydraulic problem. It's possibly the clutch master cylinder loosing pressure, or there is air getting sucked into the system. Unless you know the clutch needs replacing due to wear, I would start with the master and slave and see how that does.
I agree. I would be replacing the hydraulic system before removing the transmission to get to the clutch. Sounds like the master but the slave probably won't last much longer once you put a new master on.
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