Booyah

Alright, thanks to the suggestions from my first thread regarding this issue I was able to get the fuel pump mounted correctly (hopefully) and I installed the Mallory FPR as well. I actually got the thing to move! I drove it about 10 miles back to base and parked it in my barracks parking lot. Now of course there is a slew of other issues that have arisen now.

One - It stumbles and catches when I step on the accelerator more than half throttle. I am thinking this is related to the fact that I have not adjusted the FPR at all. I guess I need some type of PSI guage to see what pressure its running at. I am going to read over the instructions again but I didnt see anything the first time about what it is supposed to be set at.

Two - After I got everything installed and running I was sitting there looking at this little plastic bag that had a brass spacer looking thing in it. So I read through the FPR instructions one last time and apparently I have to put this in my fuel pumps bypass plug line or something. Maybe this is why I am stumbling?

Three - It backfires everytime I stop! AGH! Scared me the first time, thought I had blown my exhaust up. I talked to another first gen owner from around here about this and he said its normal? I dont like it though, any insight?

Four - Damn thing idles high, around 2k. Could this be throttle cable adjustment? I know nothing about this damn holley carburetor or how to adjust it. I also havent had a chance to adjust the float levels, I am sure that is not helping.

Any advice is appreciated.

For those that didnt catch my first thread.
1985 base model. 12a, racing beat full intake,and full exhaust.

vipernicus42

iTrader: (4)

You definitely need to get a gauge and set your fuel pressure, then see what problems are left after that.

If you think the throttle cable adjustment is causing issues, then just temporarily remove the throttle cable, tap the linkage with your finger to make sure it's "shut" and see what that does.

But at least now the pump sounds like it's working, just get your pressure in the right spot and you'll be good.

Jon

Booyah

I will try that with the throttle cable, thanks for the tip.

One more thing, Is the fuel pump supposed to be noisy? Since I have it mounted to the underside of the drivers side storage bin I can hear it whining at low speeds. Also it gets rather warm, not nearly as hot as it was before where I couldnt even touch it without burning myself. I can hold my hand on it but it is definetely warm.

vipernicus42

iTrader: (4)

I can't hear mine at idle unless I'm rummaging around in the bin behind my seat with the car on, or squatting down beside the car. MAYBE sometimes at night, that's about it.

I've got the Mallory Comp 70 though, I don't know if yours would make more noise, I don't see why it should.

Yeah the pump gets a little warm, but nothing big. Mine does the same.

What do you have for exhaust? Maybe I only can't hear mine because I have the RB long primary exhaust system

Jon

Booyah

Is there any way to adjust the fuel pressure regulator without a guage short of changing it then taking it for a drive over and over?

kgray

not without a gauge. Bite the bulllet and get one.

vipernicus42

iTrader: (4)

Agreed.

Get the one from ReSpeed. It goes up to 10psi (good enough for your application) and it's probably the most accurate fuel pressure gauge I've seen.

Jon

Booyah

link? not sure what respeed is, still new to the aftermarket 7 scene.

sgieldon

Get your Mallory off the Storage Bin and install it Here.
I'm running the 140 and I never hear it.
And invest in a Good Reg and Gauge!!!
sgieldon
steve

kgray

www.re-speed.com

Booyah

First off, what is the advantage of having the pump there isntead of on the storage bin?

Second, did you have to shave the bracket to get it to mount there? Also, what did you use to attach it to the frame rail there? The pump comes with two bolts, two lock washers, and two nuts. These are definetely not long enough to go all the way through the rail, did you purchase longer bolts and drill all the way through?

Third, how did you guys wire up your pumps? I just used some butt connectors, some extra wire and connected it up to the stock harness points where the stock pump was connected.

Fourth, Thanks Kgray but I got off my lazy *** and looked it up earlier. 46 dollars? for something I am only going to use maybe once or twice? I think I will look around to see if I can find one at the on base hobby shop or rent one from a parts store for a bit.

Ive got the Mallory Series 70 pump with the Mallory 3 port Competition Regulator.

Ill take some pictures of my shoddy mounting job I did for both later, I havent had time to really get to work on it and I just wanted it working for the time being and able to drive me two and from work.

vipernicus42

iTrader: (4)

I wired mine up by using the stock wiring. I cut the connector off my stock pump and used solder, soldering paste and heat-shrink tubing to make a nice solid connection. And since I mounted it so close to the spot where the wires emerge from the bin, I was able to put the heat-shrink section inside the car for even more protection.

Yes, it may be 46 dollars is steep... give this a read:

http://www.yawpower.com/fueldel.html

Pay close attention to the part on how gauge accuracy is measured. He used to have another tutorial page that he took down with even more info on it, but this will give you the basic idea.

The ReSpeed gauge is the most accurate, industrial-style gauge you'll be able to get your hands on, and is worth every penny. I had a "Mr. Gasket" 1-15psi gauge and it barely moved, reading 1psi, when I had the wrong regulator on there and was actually pulling a full 6psi! For a nikki that needs 2.5-3psi, the fact that my gauge was incapable of reading something that should have been right in the middle of its range was unacceptable.

When I mounted the ReSpeed gauge and dialed it in, the world was a much better place.. at least for my 7.

Jon

Jaime Enriquez

A $15 Holley guage works just fine...autometer's are also much cheaper.

Booyah

*sigh* Thanks again Viper for making me do things the right way. Jerk Looks like I will be buying the expensive guage after all. Might as well, already dropped two grand on racing beat parts *bleh*

But seriously, is mounting the pump on the frame rail really that adventageous compared to the storage bin?

vipernicus42

iTrader: (4)

Nah, I've got mine under the bin.

Frame rail is a little more solid.. which helps with things like what I'm trying to do now - tighten the brass fittings without removing the pump... If I tighten too hard the bin metal starts to bend..

But I've had no problems under the bin, and it was easier to do than the frame rail for sure.

Jon

Edit: No problem. Being a "do-it-right" jerk is kinda fun sometimes

vipernicus42

iTrader: (4)

Someone obviously didn't read the link in my post

Jon

trochoid

iTrader: (6)

Let's clear a few things up. Mounting on the frame rail will give the best solid mounting and the quietest install. Bin mounting, where I do have mine, is noisier. I also made a bracket so the pump is fully vertical as the instructions recommend, and there is a reason for that. Take a guess why, I shouldn't need to explain it.

Trying to tune with a decent fpg is just plain silly and cheap. I buy my gauges at the local speed shop for 10 bucks. While they aren't calibrated to the accuracy of ReSpeed's, it does the job. I have mine permanently mounted and that's is the 1st thing I check when I have carb problems. It will tell me several things and perhaps even what to check 1st.

I tried to get some decent pics of my install and the bracket, but there is too much black under the body to show anything remotely definitive. I did kgray's install and his car is coming back for more work this weekend. I can post some pics of his frame rail install then.

Siraniko

iTrader: (13)

Like Jaime, I use a cheap *** holley fuel pressure gauge. But my tuning is not based on a set fuel pressure such as 4.5. I test tune my cars using different pressure (keep a log book) and use the one where it will run best just like when your tuning a carb with different jets. If not for my other projects, I would buy a "fuel log" instead of a "fuel pressure regulator."

Booyah

I just read the instructions, doesnt mention anywere about making a bracket. What exactly did you do to make it mount correctly Trochoid? It says to drill holes for 5, 16" bolts. Obviously mounting it vertically is going to provide the best flow and all that but is having it slightly tilted really going to do any harm? Will it damage my pump or not flow enough for a stock port 12a with an intake and exhaust? Ill go pick up a cheap fuel pressure guage today and see how well that works, if it doesnt then it looks like im springing for some more high dollar items. Either way its a learning experience.

vipernicus42

iTrader: (4)

What he meant is

"I mounted it vertically as the instructions recommended, by making a bracket"

If you look at the design of the pump, if you were to mount it horizontal it would become a fire hazard really quickly. Mine isn't at too bad of an angle, so I don't believe it's a problem... but if my car ever catches fire I'll eat those words.

Jon