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I bought a recently rebuilt 12a streetport for 1200. The issue I'm worried about is low oil pressure at the stock gauge.
This is the highest I ever seen it this was after I switched from 5w30 royal purple to 20w50 castrol gtx.
When the car warms up it drops down to 0 sometimes even lower then 0 but when I give gas at 3k rpm I'm at 30psi max even at red line alot of people say these gauges are old. Would this oil pressure damage my engine ?
You won't "know" for sure what the real oil pressure is til you take a mechanical oil pressure reading. Remove oe sender unit and screw gauge in and start and run from cold til hot. See what oil pressure is at fast idle cold and idle speed when at operating temperature. Rev engine to 3k rpm and see what oil pressure is and post results here.
Looking at dash voltmeter,that's pretty low if car is running and might explain the low oil pressure readings. While car is running check voltage at battery with multimeter.
What do you have for an oil cooler? I could be confusing you with another member that was posting about aftermarket oil coolers,was that you?
You can rent oil pressure test kits from chain auto parts stores for a deposit that’s refunded when returned.
FWIW,I use Castrol GTX 20W50 conventional oil in my car and have for over 30 years.
Warm idle oil pressure registers center or just to left of middle line on dash gauge and cruise speed @ 65mph
is 7/8ths gauge travel or slightly less.
You will definitely want to install a mechanical oil pressure gauge, even if it's just temporary. Get an exact reading, as the original gauge or sender can be starting to show their age. If the pressure is the same with the mechanical gauge, we can dig in a it further and go from there.
I second the use of Castrol GTX 20W50. I've been using it exclusively for 20 years. I find that I have excellent oil pressure when using it. I dont run a weight lower unless I am forced to drive the car up until the snow flies. Then I'll go down to a 10W40, but nothing lighter.
I've found the gauges in the 84-85 to be inaccurate on more then a few cars, in particular the oil pressure gauge. They seem to lose there calibration over time and when off the needle parks too far past the low point of the gauge. I found an adjustment on the gauges where you can change the needle position (using a small phillips head) in relationship to the markings on the gauge. you have to take the front off to gain access. Just FYI, make sure the pressure is OK with a test gauge first...
That condition is present on all 1st gens and every other car. Where the needle goes where car turned off is not an issue.
When the key is turned on,the gaugesoil,temp,volts,gas come up to their calibrated minimums and register This and actual readings are the only relevant parameters.
One of the easiest way solve the problem is taking of the oilpressure sender and clean the small hole inside with brake cleaner.For getting of the 30 years old and hardened engine oil.
Not to hijack the thread, but what's the best way to remove the pressure sender? I have an '84 with a beehive cooler and there isn't much room to get a wrench on it with all of the coolant and oil lines. Being that it appears to be a brass fitting, I was a little hesitant to crank on it with pliers to break it free. Would it be easier to access from under the car?
That condition is present on all 1st gens and every other car. Where the needle goes where car turned off is not an issue.
When the key is turned on,the gaugesoil,temp,volts,gas come up to their calibrated minimums and register This and actual readings are the only relevant parameters.
Please explain this to me and why are the gauges adjustable? The oil pressure gauge will sweep just fine, just doesn't read correctly in correlation to the print on the face of the gauge. My OP/water temp gauges only move after the car is started and begins to warm up..... No calibrated minimum with just the key on.
09-22-19 | 01:31 PM
