1st Generation Specific (1979-1985) 1979-1985 Discussion including performance modifications and technical support sections

Looking at buying a 1983 S

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Old 08-13-04, 09:24 AM
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Exclamation Looking at buying a 1983 S

ive recently run across a 1983 S, it has 110,5?? miles on it, and has sat in a garage for 7 years. ive been looking around, and reading on the forum, and still dont quite know if the car is worth it. now the problem with this car is that, the carb needs rebuilding. the guy im buying it from says the float is messed up. the other problem i noticed when i was driving it, was that if you let the RPMs drop below 2000 for more than a second or two the car would start to sputter and stall. now i was told by the owner that its caused by the carb, i tend to believe him because he said that he owns a few older carbuereted(spelling?) cars. but i figure people that have been around theese cars for a while would know more about it then me, since i know nothing about carbs, or rotary engines for that matter. from looking around i guess there are 2 carb experts on here. so any help would be greatly appreciated, and if anyone has anyother things i should look at before buying the car i would appreciate it.
-dan

Last edited by prozak4all; 08-13-04 at 09:39 AM.
Old 08-13-04, 09:41 AM
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My 84 does the same thing. Only difference..... the carb has a FRESH rebuild. The engine hasnt ran for more than 30 minutes. It could just be a couple vacuum leaks, which would cause it to do that. What are they wanting for it? If its a mere couple hundred-ish, you might as well buy it and play with it. If anything it will give you more experience in case you do find another one. Hell, if that happens then you could have a good parts car (and a spare carb to send to sterling).
Old 08-13-04, 11:06 AM
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Stalling and dying below 2k rpms is 99% of the time cause by vaccume leaks. If the car has been sitting for 7 years it most likely has some dried out and cracked vaccume lines. Use this as a barganing point. Vaccume leaks are usually easy fixes. Check it for more serious problems like oil leaks, especially on top drivers side where it says "12A". Look for rust, especially under the rear wheel wells and underneath the storage bins.
Old 08-13-04, 12:27 PM
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thanks for all the help ill look at the other things you mentioned, and what should i use to replace the vacuum lines, i read another topic where people were talking about silicone hoses vs. braided hoses. my plans for the car are to keep it stock and show it, so with my plans for the car what kind of hoses should i get for it, and where could i pick them up, will autozone or napa have them, or is it something i have to order?
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