closetrotaryhead

I'm a newb, but, I do a little about 7's in general.

I need helpful ideas on what to look for and ask about on a '85 12A MTX.

What should I be looking for? Asking about?

Any inherant problems I should know about, or use in questioning?

I need all the help i can get.

The one I am looking at seems very well taken care of(pics, words, have not seen heard in person as of yet).

But, it is always the good looking ones that pull you away from seeing the mech. problems.

The guy is asking $1,600 for a clean, red '85 with a 12A.

I haven't seen the interior, just the drivers side and motor shot. That's it.

Gonna try and pry more info, until then. Help me!

Thanks guys!

- Drew

RustyRotary

iTrader: (2)

What's an MTX??

First thing to look for is rust. Pull out the storage bins so you can check the wheelwells and floorpan. Then take a look underneath the car for any major rust.

When you check out the car, make sure that it has not been started and "warmed up for you". Sellers tend to do this so that you don't see problems with starting that it might have. So, if the engine is cold, try starting it up. Some smoke is normal for a minute or two, but after that it should go away. When it is warmed up, give it a good reving. If it smokes at high RPM's, there are obviously problems with the engine.

For the most part, buying an RX7 isn't too much different than buying any other car.

closetrotaryhead

MTX = Manual Transmission

Thanks for insight!

Anyone else?

- Drew

RustyRotary

iTrader: (2)

Never seen the X in there

There are some other things you should check actually. Compression is important, and you can give it a quick check it without a tool. Take out the top spark plug from one of the rotor housings and spin the rotating assembly with your hand. Listen for a strong puff sound from each apex of the rotor. There should be three puffs if the compression is good. Then do the same thing for the other rotor. Also take off the oil cap and look for white stuff on the inside of the filler neck. Sometimes this means that coolant is leaking into the oil.

closetrotaryhead

Yeah, I realized that after I posted, used to wrong wheel drive cars :o

Great info, will definately use those tips

- Drew

jays83gsl

Also, make sure there aren't any major dents from the doors back. Those body peices are irreplaceable, and will have to be professionally fixed.

Since you're used to Wrong Wheel Drive, remember to check and make sure the rear differential isn't leaking.

BTW, we assume that any car spoken of is a manual, unless otherwise noted

closetrotaryhead

Will do

- Drew

closetrotaryhead

So, would you pay $1,600 for this car?





- Drew

Lee Lyons

I wouldn't say the rear quarters are irreplaceable...I bought a drivers rear quarter hand pounded from carquest for $150 CAD...like already mentioned check the rear wheel wells...inside for rust its not always as apparent from the outside of the inner well...

closetrotaryhead

If the motor does ever need work, or stops running for whatever reason.

How hard is a 13B NA swap?

I would rebuild the 13 and most likely streetport it, but besides motor work, what wiring and ECu work needs to be done, considering this is a carb car?

- Drew

bliffle

On looks alone it's worth $1600.

B

jays83gsl

Jeez, I wouldn't pay for a car that doesn't have anti-aliasing!

Joking, but from LOOKS it seems to be worth the money.
The bay looks clean, and from what I can see there's no 'belt whip' on the hood, meaning when the belts whip up any leaky fluids.
It doesn't seem like the owner just cleaned it up for the pictures, either, as you can see a tiny bit of 'grime' down by the passenger headlight, which would certainly have been cleaned off for a 'make it look better' shot.

Seems like a good deal, but still check out the stuff we mentioned earlier.