When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
A search found plenty of advice on jack locations but don’t see anything solid on where to place the supports if using a lift. I am lucky enough to have access to a lift this weekend and to make the most of my time would love to avoid spending the first two hours working out where to place the lift. Thanks!
Basically it's on the front portion of the frame just aft of where the front connects to the center frame section and in the back it's similar. I have a four post lift but if I used kickstand it use these points. I also NEVER use a scissor spare tire jack unless I would happen to be on the road in a pinch. Scissor jacks wreck havoc on the pinch weld and surrounding metal.
Where the red squares with the yellow blocks are? Asking ‘cause the person posting this was not sure and had seen some buckling at the point nearest to starter motor. Also seems a bit ‘tippy’ as I will be trying to extension bar a flywheel nut off using the Atkins 2’ tool!
I would move t he front pads up about 2 inches so they rest on the double thickness of the joint of the front frame with the unibody frame. Otherwise the unibody frame can sag if not evenly loaded across the flat part.
I've used jackstand at those spots and had not issues yanking on bolts and things while working on the car. You really want to get the large socket and an airgun to do that flywheel nut.
You want those points as far forward and rearward as possible.
Two post lifts are great for fast work, I just don't trust them for myself so I got a four post lift. Now I need to get the rolling jacks or make my own bottle jack platform to get the wheels off the ramps to work on suspension/brakes,etc.
Last edited by KansasCityREPU; 04-07-22 at 02:51 PM.
I would move t he front pads up about 2 inches so they rest on the double thickness of the joint of the front frame with the unibody frame. Otherwise the unibody frame can sag if not evenly loaded across the flat part.
I've used jackstand at those spots and had not issues yanking on bolts and things while working on the car. You really want to get the large socket and an airgun to do that flywheel nut.
Move the front foreward a couple inches, as said. I would also move the rears back to where the small holes are in the frame rails (small hole on bottom of each rail, in the pic).
I lift mine in the rear from the center of the axle and usually do stands uner axle. I lift in front center of crossmember and jackstand on both sides.
mine is up now, and will be changing clutch... it needs to be bretty high, so I am going with 6 stands. 2 in rear on frame rails by trailing arms mounting points, and 2 on front crossmember. will put 2 more on front frame rails. just makes me nervous when you're putting something under the stand, in this case a 1 inch 12x12 paver to get it even higher. PITA, but it's even harder when you get tranny out and car is not high enough to pull it from under.
I use the stabilizer mount for jacking up the front a lot of times because my car is low enough that I can't get the jack under the center crossmember. Depending what I'm doing I sometimes put the jacks up front under the stabilizer mount so its not in the way when I'm doing tranny stuff where jacks stands get in the way sometimes.