life with an electric fan
#1
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From: KY
life with an electric fan
well, I installed my electric fan setup. Don't really notice much different. the car may rev better but the most significant thing I can say is my hot start is much better. With the mechanical fan, my car seemed draggy and almost flooded trying to start. With the electric, it starts much better hot and cold. Cold, it starts super fast. Hot, it starts 10x better than it did with the mechanical fan.
now...I just have to get sterling or Carl to rebuild my carb. It's on my list fellas...
now...I just have to get sterling or Carl to rebuild my carb. It's on my list fellas...
#2
That's cool. What size is your stuff?
I'm trying to fit a 16" electric fan on a short style '79-'82 radiator with no oil cooler below it (project car). It's got 2" of overhang at the top and bottom. I'm trying to figure out how to block those sections so air doesn't skip going through the core before it goes through the fan.
I'm trying to fit a 16" electric fan on a short style '79-'82 radiator with no oil cooler below it (project car). It's got 2" of overhang at the top and bottom. I'm trying to figure out how to block those sections so air doesn't skip going through the core before it goes through the fan.
#3
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From: KY
I too have a short radiator. This may be bad but I put a 14" pusher on it and mounted it to the front condenser and it fit perfectly. I am not having problems with cooling the car in stop and go traffic. I am considering putting a 12" puller on the rad side and having a push/pull setup when it gets hotter. Would this be a problem?
I was so proud of my 16" taurus fan find only to find out that it was too thick to mount and hung over too much. As a pusher, I didn't have to worry about thickness. The 12" puller is about 2.5 inches and pulls 1300 cfm.
I'm just happy that my hot starts are much better. I have put almost 150 miles on the car since Sat and the temp gauge is just a hair higher in stop and go traffic. The temp gauge used to read about 1/4 and now it is between 1/4 and 1/3 but that was also with the AC going and the fan ON.
I guess I need the creature comforts. It may be normal with the AC going. I just fixed it the other day.
I was so proud of my 16" taurus fan find only to find out that it was too thick to mount and hung over too much. As a pusher, I didn't have to worry about thickness. The 12" puller is about 2.5 inches and pulls 1300 cfm.
I'm just happy that my hot starts are much better. I have put almost 150 miles on the car since Sat and the temp gauge is just a hair higher in stop and go traffic. The temp gauge used to read about 1/4 and now it is between 1/4 and 1/3 but that was also with the AC going and the fan ON.
I guess I need the creature comforts. It may be normal with the AC going. I just fixed it the other day.
#6
my temp gauge doesn't even leave the 2nd bar. | | | |(overheated). Never even gets past the 2nd. I have an electric fan and thats how it runs, also it only turns on when the engine gets so hot.
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#8
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From: KY
Originally posted by slashdawg00110
What's the connection between the fan and hot start?
What's the connection between the fan and hot start?
Probably a couple of other factors like my car really needs a carb rebuild to boot.
#9
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From: KY
Originally posted by trevs_rex
Hey guys!!! I have a 1980 with a series 5 turbo motor in her and want to convert it to electric because of the benifits what you recomend???
Hey guys!!! I have a 1980 with a series 5 turbo motor in her and want to convert it to electric because of the benifits what you recomend???
#10
Originally posted by Rutnick
could be several things but one thing is maybe when the car was hot the mechanical fan was fully engaged causing the starter to work harder to turn the car over. Also, less spinning mass for the starter.
Probably a couple of other factors like my car really needs a carb rebuild to boot.
could be several things but one thing is maybe when the car was hot the mechanical fan was fully engaged causing the starter to work harder to turn the car over. Also, less spinning mass for the starter.
Probably a couple of other factors like my car really needs a carb rebuild to boot.
#13
i want an e-fan. i would prefer not to pay 200 for the black magic, BUT which is best besides that? taurus/sable, or the fiero fan? mine's an 82. i ripped out my AC but still have original radiator. my condenser, and dryer/rec. is gone, as well as the compressor. also do i want push or pull?
#14
actually about the push or pull type when wiring it up crossing the ires changes polarity in the fan and if it is backwards can make a pull type a push type so it is where you place it but most are behind RAD. and are pull type. i learned the polarity from my 80 yr old neighbor when i couldnt figure out why my car was getting hot when i was cruising. my fan was pushing air against air causing a heat soaking affect on radiator so he switches the 2 wires and bam it was pulling air i felt retarded.
#15
quote:
do you have the original radiator? How about A/C?
Yes I do been fully serviced and has been running for a while sweet as candy. A/C I am in the process of putting this back in my car now
do you have the original radiator? How about A/C?
Yes I do been fully serviced and has been running for a while sweet as candy. A/C I am in the process of putting this back in my car now
#16
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From: KY
Originally posted by bouis
All hot starts need is a little gas.
Push that pedal down! Some people say you don't need the hot starting assist motor, but it does it for you and it works well. I put mine back in.
All hot starts need is a little gas.
Push that pedal down! Some people say you don't need the hot starting assist motor, but it does it for you and it works well. I put mine back in.
My hot start assist got thrown away.
#17
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From: KY
Originally posted by Fuel524
actually about the push or pull type when wiring it up crossing the ires changes polarity in the fan and if it is backwards can make a pull type a push type so it is where you place it but most are behind RAD. and are pull type. i learned the polarity from my 80 yr old neighbor when i couldnt figure out why my car was getting hot when i was cruising. my fan was pushing air against air causing a heat soaking affect on radiator so he switches the 2 wires and bam it was pulling air i felt retarded.
actually about the push or pull type when wiring it up crossing the ires changes polarity in the fan and if it is backwards can make a pull type a push type so it is where you place it but most are behind RAD. and are pull type. i learned the polarity from my 80 yr old neighbor when i couldnt figure out why my car was getting hot when i was cruising. my fan was pushing air against air causing a heat soaking affect on radiator so he switches the 2 wires and bam it was pulling air i felt retarded.
#18
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From: KY
Originally posted by thricerx7
i want an e-fan. i would prefer not to pay 200 for the black magic, BUT which is best besides that? taurus/sable, or the fiero fan? mine's an 82. i ripped out my AC but still have original radiator. my condenser, and dryer/rec. is gone, as well as the compressor. also do i want push or pull?
i want an e-fan. i would prefer not to pay 200 for the black magic, BUT which is best besides that? taurus/sable, or the fiero fan? mine's an 82. i ripped out my AC but still have original radiator. my condenser, and dryer/rec. is gone, as well as the compressor. also do i want push or pull?
Oh yeah, 2000 CFM is accurate. I got it of the Haynes site. They had the rating for it on a PDF file.
#19
im gonna go with push and pullone on each side.....then put my aftermarket oil cooler infront of the rad on the bottom and prolly another tiny pusher for it and hopefully someday wen i turbo it the FMIC will go above the oil cooler....lotsa space
#20
Originally posted by Mr BiG G
im gonna go with push and pullone on each side.....
im gonna go with push and pullone on each side.....
#21
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From: KY
I seriously don't see how the puller will be free-spinning. It will be coming on the exact same time as the pusher and actually has more CFM than the pusher. Plus, my pusher is having to push through the condenser and rad. I've seen other factory setups with a pusher and puller.
I took it for a 100 mile romp the other night and I was concerned about the airflow through the rad with the pusher and the temp was fine.
It also gets pretty dang hot here in the summer months so I'll be running the AC a bunch and if air is being push and pulled through the radiator what exactly is causing a restriction?
Don't take this as me being insulting. I'm just trying to understand.
I took it for a 100 mile romp the other night and I was concerned about the airflow through the rad with the pusher and the temp was fine.
It also gets pretty dang hot here in the summer months so I'll be running the AC a bunch and if air is being push and pulled through the radiator what exactly is causing a restriction?
Don't take this as me being insulting. I'm just trying to understand.
#22
To give my comments in this thread some closure, since it's been SEVERAL years, I went with a clutch fan. The electric just wasn't good enough, or the thermostat was bad. I replaced it with a blocked bypass/gutted thermostat and a clutch fan. Seems to work ok.
#23
Arg, thread from the dead....did 1st90 really say 1990 GX?? This is the 1stgen tech section and ends at year 1985...the FC is a whole 'nother beast when it comes to packaging and cooling depending on engine breathing parameters, so I'd head on over to that 2ndgen section...
So, did you do it? Seems like a huge waste of duplication and money to me. I'm running the Derale 17" electric fan on a custom Wizard Cooling aluminum radiator and have seen 165 Fahrenheit only a couple of times in the Texas heat....course, it never really got HOT hot this Summer, so I never ran AC in the car, either......the fact of the matter is that the engine does rev faster, it warms up faster in all conditions and you'll see a MPG increase as well.
I wonder if the original thread starter is even around these days...
Originally posted by Mr BiG G
im gonna go with push and pullone on each side.....then put my aftermarket oil cooler infront of the rad on the bottom and prolly another tiny pusher for it and hopefully someday wen i turbo it the FMIC will go above the oil cooler....lotsa space
im gonna go with push and pullone on each side.....then put my aftermarket oil cooler infront of the rad on the bottom and prolly another tiny pusher for it and hopefully someday wen i turbo it the FMIC will go above the oil cooler....lotsa space
I wonder if the original thread starter is even around these days...
#25
To answer the question of "what other fan options are there". The 1st gen MR2 fans are a great solution. Takes like five minutes to mount them on a stock radiator. This is a two fan assembly, but I'm actually using only one of them and have no issues at all. Use them both though, because they look really sweet...
The only reason I'm only using one is because I upgraded to a 2nd gen radiator and never got around to devising a mounting system for that radiator. Maybe someday I'll get around to it, but in the mean time one fan is working great...
1. Shows the hook/lip that's built into the fan assembly. This hangs right on the lip of the radiator and carries the weight of the fans.
2. Shows where you drill a hole on each side. Use the original shroud mounting bolts and locations to secure the fan to the radiator. That's all there is to it!
The only reason I'm only using one is because I upgraded to a 2nd gen radiator and never got around to devising a mounting system for that radiator. Maybe someday I'll get around to it, but in the mean time one fan is working great...
1. Shows the hook/lip that's built into the fan assembly. This hangs right on the lip of the radiator and carries the weight of the fans.
2. Shows where you drill a hole on each side. Use the original shroud mounting bolts and locations to secure the fan to the radiator. That's all there is to it!