Leaking Fuel Rail
#1
Leaking Fuel Rail
Cleaned up the 6-ports along with about everything else while the UIM/LIM was off.
Got it cranked, but could see what looks like the inlet part of the fuel rail spewing gas. Thought I had forgotten to tighten the clamp (Did away with the squeeze ones). With everything off again, the clamps were tight.
I want to pressurize my system to visually see where the leak is coming from. What's the best way to do this?
jerij
Got it cranked, but could see what looks like the inlet part of the fuel rail spewing gas. Thought I had forgotten to tighten the clamp (Did away with the squeeze ones). With everything off again, the clamps were tight.
I want to pressurize my system to visually see where the leak is coming from. What's the best way to do this?
jerij
#2
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there is a yellow (with a rubber boot on it) 2 pin connector by the right side shock tower. this is the fuel pump test connector.
so jump the two pins, and turn on the key and the fuel pump will run. actually it may be easier to turn the key on, and then jumper the connector
so jump the two pins, and turn on the key and the fuel pump will run. actually it may be easier to turn the key on, and then jumper the connector
#3
84SE-EGI helpy-helperton
Just so you're aware, the Fuel Injection Pressure Test plug is usually located right near or under the Idle Mixture Screw. Make a jumper out of a paperclip - or get serious and use some wire and 2 crimp connectors - and it will allow the fuel pump to operate anytime the key is in the Run position. Effectively, this shorts the connection in the Air Flow Meter that tells the ECU that there's air coming in. It's the same connection as if the Air Flow Door were open, which you can also do by taking off your air cleaner box, remove filter, and use a stick to push in the Air Flow Door to simulate air coming in, but I digress...
Your fuel leak is most likely the Pulsation Dampner on the front of the fuel rail (this is the return side), as these sometimes go bad, and when they do, they leak. There's a plastic 'mushroom' cap on the end that you can remove, and that screw on the end is NOT an adjustor - it won't do anything to prevent fuel from leaking once it starts. Best bet is a replacement (Borg-Warner or equivalent, it's not a booster rocket for the space shuttle...). These are installed in pairs, and the other one is located on your Fuel Pump.
If you're interested in knowing how a Pulsation Dampner works, there's a little metal diaphragm in there that allows the pressure to vibrate against it - the vibration is from the Fuel Pump pushing the fuel through the lines - and this pulsation due to hydraulic pressure can sometimes cause fuel injectors to spray in bursts/pulses instead of a steady stream. Steady fuel supply equates to better performance and fuel efficiency, which is why Mazda installed these. The 2nd Gen RX-7's have had many stories of cars burning to the ground when the Pulsation Dampner on the fuel rail leaks - but ours seem to be a bit more reliable.
Except for yours, apparently...
Good luck,
Your fuel leak is most likely the Pulsation Dampner on the front of the fuel rail (this is the return side), as these sometimes go bad, and when they do, they leak. There's a plastic 'mushroom' cap on the end that you can remove, and that screw on the end is NOT an adjustor - it won't do anything to prevent fuel from leaking once it starts. Best bet is a replacement (Borg-Warner or equivalent, it's not a booster rocket for the space shuttle...). These are installed in pairs, and the other one is located on your Fuel Pump.
If you're interested in knowing how a Pulsation Dampner works, there's a little metal diaphragm in there that allows the pressure to vibrate against it - the vibration is from the Fuel Pump pushing the fuel through the lines - and this pulsation due to hydraulic pressure can sometimes cause fuel injectors to spray in bursts/pulses instead of a steady stream. Steady fuel supply equates to better performance and fuel efficiency, which is why Mazda installed these. The 2nd Gen RX-7's have had many stories of cars burning to the ground when the Pulsation Dampner on the fuel rail leaks - but ours seem to be a bit more reliable.
Except for yours, apparently...
Good luck,
#5
Let's re-visit this.....
Jumping the "test" connector w/the ignition in "on" on an X-SE only activates the fuel pump relay (as best I can hear/tell). Don't I have to "open' the MAF door to actually make the FP "pump"?
I ask 'cause I get no flow/pump/etc when I short the jumper and turn the ignition to "on".
jerij
Jumping the "test" connector w/the ignition in "on" on an X-SE only activates the fuel pump relay (as best I can hear/tell). Don't I have to "open' the MAF door to actually make the FP "pump"?
I ask 'cause I get no flow/pump/etc when I short the jumper and turn the ignition to "on".
jerij
#6
My "better" method (correct me if I'm wrong), is to unhook the inlet, hook an air compressor, and "blow". Then....watch.
Of course, I don't want to blow out the damper or any other component but don't know how I can "adjust" the pressure from a compressor tank.
And while we're on the subject....I followed my fuel lines. The one coming from the pump/filter/etc goes to the damper side, not the other. Or am I just old AND confused?
jerij
Of course, I don't want to blow out the damper or any other component but don't know how I can "adjust" the pressure from a compressor tank.
And while we're on the subject....I followed my fuel lines. The one coming from the pump/filter/etc goes to the damper side, not the other. Or am I just old AND confused?
jerij
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#8
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Let's re-visit this.....
Jumping the "test" connector w/the ignition in "on" on an X-SE only activates the fuel pump relay (as best I can hear/tell). Don't I have to "open' the MAF door to actually make the FP "pump"?
I ask 'cause I get no flow/pump/etc when I short the jumper and turn the ignition to "on".
jerij
Jumping the "test" connector w/the ignition in "on" on an X-SE only activates the fuel pump relay (as best I can hear/tell). Don't I have to "open' the MAF door to actually make the FP "pump"?
I ask 'cause I get no flow/pump/etc when I short the jumper and turn the ignition to "on".
jerij
inlet goes to the front/damper side and then the exit comes out of the pressure regulator