I've got larger front calipers and I'm noticing I have a bit too long of a pedal travel for my taste. I tried a search but the results weren't very specific. Can I use a T2 master cylinder or do I have to try and track down an Isuzu Rodeo one and make it fit?
Grant

 

Im running a TII master,vacuum booster and prop valve on my 84 with 12" front discs and TII calipers.Everything was a straightforward install with just a little grinding on the clutch master to clear the larger booster.Also,youll need to use two of the aluminum spacers under the booster for correct pushrod spacing.
It works great,has for years and my pedal has a short travel with no mush.

Im not sure if the TII master will bolt to a 1st gen booster,but it couldnt hurt to try.....

 

Hmm, I kind of want to avoid using the larger booster because I want more feel at the penalty of force required on the pedal. I may have to look at using 2nd gen booster as well though if the M/C have different bolt patterns, I believe that they are all the same between the different trim levels in the 2nd gen correct? What kind of back brakes are you running?
thanks,
Grant

 

I believe an Isuzu Rodeo/Amigo/VehiCross master and booster will fit. Very short travel master cylinder right there.

 

Yeah I saw that thread, I'm not really looking for super short travel; just a bit shorter than it is right now. I've found a booster and MC from an '88 GX locally so I'm gonna try that.
Grant

 

Did you do this in tandem with the CP racing front brake Kit?/

 

He has TII Brakes, but using the SUPERIOR SelectMaz kit from Australia.

I am Glad this subject came up, as I was previously searching for an answer on this myself.

I recently upgraded my Rear brakes to Aerospace Components 4 piston fixed setup. (I did this when I upgraded the rear end).

Pedal Travel increased slightly, but was bearable.

I now have upgraded the front brakes to TII 4 Piston setups as well, but using the CP Racing Kit setup. (Note: This kit is INFERIOR to Selctmaz's setup).

Anyway - Now the car stops well, but pedal travel is ridiculously long. Almost to the bottom of the floorboard.
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I did some research here and there seems to be a few options..
1) The TII Master and Vacuum solenoid, as Steve has,
2) The Isuzu setup the Paul Aber has with his Seven's Only Big Brake Kit
3) An FD Master?
4) A 93 Mazda 929 Master, Non-ABS unit.
5) Something from Seven's Only - for their Big Brake setups front & Rear?
6) Something else entirely.

It seems that FD Owners who upgrade to Big Brakes, usually go the 929 Master Route, since it is larger than the FD setup. Some state it stops like a Porsche now, - or at least feels like it does.

Since I now have Big brakes on all four corners, I don't think the TII or the
FD setup will be enough.

Personally, I want something "Bolt-In" - but I don't think the 929 setup will be that easy to modify to an FB.

Any Ideas?

 

DF: I think the Isuzu might b what your after because Paul has big brakes front and rear from what I remember. I'm going to try and fit the MC without the booster at first. Also this is just a GX MC but I've heard all the 2nd gen ones are the same so we'll see. I also stepped up and got some new rotors and Hawk HPS pads, hopefully they work better then the current set-up.
Grant

P.S. As an aside: Are 1st gen brake pads the same front to rear?

 

The GXL booster is the same size as the TII booster,so youll be doing the same setup I have.Basically,the entire brake system is the same on all the 5 lug cars(TII,GXL,Vert,GTU)
The 4 lug cars(Base,SE) have the single piston front brakes and the smaller MC and booster.

My setup has 12" rotors,a bit larger than stock TII rotors,but the calipers are stock TII.I wouldnt call the kit superior to the CP,except that the rotors are larger.The CP kit is much easier to install,uses off the shelf rotors and gives you a 5 lug pattern.My kit,while bigger,uses some sort of Holden rotor you can get here,and only offers the 4X110MM pattern(as of the time I bought it,they were working on SE pattern rotors)The install was also complicated by the fact that Aus cars never got the short,stubby spindles we did in 84.I had to machine the hubs and use different nuts to secure the rotors to my 84 spindles.

My rear brakes are stock SE rotors/calipers.

 

The MC I'm getting is from a 4-bolt car. Hmm, maybe I need to shop around for a T2 one.
Grant

 

Direct Freak,

I used to use a 929 master cyl on my Turbo cars when upgrading the brakes.

I think I have one left in the garage, if you want to try it.

it uses a 15/16" (~24mm) piston, so it should def reduce your pedal travel.

 

Thanks, but I ordered a 929 Non-ABS one earlier today.
The 929 one is on the left, and is 1" in diameter, as well as 1/4 inch longer.
The FD one is on the right, and is 15/16 in diameter.



Hopefully, it will fit without tooo much modification.

 

would there be any advantage to using one of these master cylinders with the stock brakes?

 

Your brake pedal would have a hair trigger because of the amount of fluid the larger MC would displace.Not really an advantage unless you had large/sticky tires.And then youve got the problem of the small stock rotors overheating since the bigger/stickier tires are harder to lockup......

 

After a bit of research and with some help from steve84GS TII I bought a second-hand TII master cylinder and booster, and I'm in the process of fitting it now. It seems I have to shave quite a large amount of material off the clutch master, I'm not sure if they're spaced differently for RHD cars or not? It doesn't look like it's going to be an easy fit at all. I may need to slot the clutch master holes on the firewall and tweak the clutch pedal sideways a bit, probably only 5mm.

I'm running 310mm Wilwood front disks with 4-pot calipers, and 10.5" single-piston rear brakes from an '88 EA Falcon. I've been advised by a brake expert that I should have enough fluid and an appropriate pedal reach, if that helps.

 

Oh yeah, I was going to ask you about that - where did you get the alloy spacers from? The FC or the FB? My FB doesn't have any spacer, it just has a steel bracket on the inside of the firewall.

Actually, you don't need a spacer to get the rod length correct. The measurements I took indicate the FC rod is 15mm longer than the FB, but you can screw it up the thread a bit more and still have enough travel. Of course, if you do that the booster body will come in contact with the steel lip on the firewall above it, and consequently won't sit even on the firewall, so a spacer is probably the better option unless you want to get medieval and cut out some meat from the firewall.