Jacking points?
#26
acdelco d1906 Nkg 49034
this is the newest thread of the 4 rx-7 fb jack points threads, so I will pose the question here:
How about gluing 1/2 in thick 3 by 4 inch pieces from a used tire to your favorite jack points?
I use the rubber pieces so as to keep the undercoating intact. But gluing the rubber pieces would save time and hassle of positioning the rubber pieces to be a buffer between the hydraulic floor jack and car frame.
How about gluing 1/2 in thick 3 by 4 inch pieces from a used tire to your favorite jack points?
I use the rubber pieces so as to keep the undercoating intact. But gluing the rubber pieces would save time and hassle of positioning the rubber pieces to be a buffer between the hydraulic floor jack and car frame.
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midnight mechanic (10-07-21)
#28
Slowly getting there...
iTrader: (1)
My car has spent most of the past 3 years on & off jackstands. Granted, it is on a solid concrete floor in my garage, so you apartment boys have different challenges...
*To jack the car up on the side of the freeway use the stock jacking points and stock (or similar) jack. Change the tire and drive on.
*At Home - get a quality floor jack and some jackstands. The stock jacking points (the body "pinch welds") are flimsy compared to many cars and can bend/deform with repeated used. **Roadside emergencies Only**
*At home I always use a floor jack to jack the rear by the pumpkin and the front by the big, flat, sturdy crossmember. I have "pucks" that I use to prevent metal-on-metal contact/scraping/slippage (on ALL my cars and trucks). They are made to fit the usual pinch-weld jacking points so you don't crush them, and can be flipped over for a big rubber contact patch on the pumpkin and crossmember as I mentioned...
*I set my jackstands under the big, square, frame-rail-looking sections of the body close to the front and rear.
*if I want to hold the rear-end at ride height I place the jack stands under the axle tubes. I have placed them under the shocks in certain situations, but they were never meant to support the cars weight and those tabs are weak. Use caution.
The yellow pucks I use were cheap on epay and come in many colors. They've worked great. You can also get similar pads for the tops of the jackstands, to prevent scraping/slipping. Easier than trying to cut up an old tire.
*To jack the car up on the side of the freeway use the stock jacking points and stock (or similar) jack. Change the tire and drive on.
*At Home - get a quality floor jack and some jackstands. The stock jacking points (the body "pinch welds") are flimsy compared to many cars and can bend/deform with repeated used. **Roadside emergencies Only**
*At home I always use a floor jack to jack the rear by the pumpkin and the front by the big, flat, sturdy crossmember. I have "pucks" that I use to prevent metal-on-metal contact/scraping/slippage (on ALL my cars and trucks). They are made to fit the usual pinch-weld jacking points so you don't crush them, and can be flipped over for a big rubber contact patch on the pumpkin and crossmember as I mentioned...
*I set my jackstands under the big, square, frame-rail-looking sections of the body close to the front and rear.
*if I want to hold the rear-end at ride height I place the jack stands under the axle tubes. I have placed them under the shocks in certain situations, but they were never meant to support the cars weight and those tabs are weak. Use caution.
The yellow pucks I use were cheap on epay and come in many colors. They've worked great. You can also get similar pads for the tops of the jackstands, to prevent scraping/slipping. Easier than trying to cut up an old tire.
Last edited by Maxwedge; 10-08-21 at 05:25 AM.
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