warwickben

iTrader: (1)

hey guys i have 2 question and i feel like a dumbass for asking. i did a search but i got the wroung info.
i allso read thru my chilton's but that didnt answer my questions.

iam going to be pulling my motor to swap in a different 12a can some one post pics or explain the proper way to hoist a 12a. mainly whats the best safe way to pull the motor with a hoist. on my mustang it was simple because the block had plates bolted to the heads to make it easy.

can some one explain to me where to put jack stands when i replace the cross member i plan on up grading to the respeed cross member. at the same time iam going to swap the motor in stall my coild over kit ect ect. the chilton's i have just show you how to jack the car up to replace a flat ect.

edit i know where to put jack stands in the rear, my chiltons has water damage and the pics are not clear for where to place them in the front ect.

t_g_farrell

iTrader: (1)

Theres two places to put hooks on the motor, one is on the back side behind the carb mess. Its attached to one of the bolts that also holds the tranny. Just undo the backside nut so the tranny can be removed and leave it bolted into the back plate of the engine so the hook can be used. The other tab for lifting is right between the dizzy and the alternator.

I would place the jack stands under the two frame rails that come out from under the chassis right before they curve up and separate to form the rails the cross member bolts to. The location is almost right under the driver and passenger floor pans. This part is stronger than further back. That way you can completely pull the whole front end off.

ibid

since another noob asked this question already, I thought I'd ask if there is an easy quick link to the engine stand adapter needed to work on rebuilding an engine for 1st gen.. cause the way it's on the stand right now, it would be pointless when trying to take it apart to have the stand

t_g_farrell

iTrader: (1)

Search, it was just covered a few days ago. Use the air cond bracket mount points is a hint.

warwickben

iTrader: (1)

i plan to pull the motor and tranny at the same time. so any help where to hoist to do that.


55$ stand adapter
http://www.pineappleracing.com/index...PROD&ProdID=10

90$
http://www.mazdatrix.com/toolmisc.htm

ibid

ok
thank you

stilettoman

iTrader: (1)

Draining the engine and trans oil will avoid a real mess. I usually remove the shifter from the top side, but if the car is elevated enough, that may not be necessary. Pull the radiator to avoid damage. Use the same lifting points as for engine-only, as you want the front of the engine to come up pretty high. Put a creeper, furniture dolly or other wheels under the back of the tranny and just pull the engine forward and up.

Personally I am very safety conscious. I NEVER put both ends of the car on jack stands, and even with one end elevated, I put a pair of stacked wheels or other safety support under the end that is elevated before I crawl under the car.

warwickben

iTrader: (1)

say i need to jack the front and rear up to work on the under side i normale get 4 steel rims and lay them down and set the cars wheel in the center of them no need to worry about the car tipping ect ect. gives me enough room to get under the car, iam a skinny bastard 140 5'10".

trochoid

iTrader: (6)

When removing or installing the engine and tranny together, I use an engine leveler that attaches between the hoist and engine. This allows one to tilt the engine for a safer removal. I've enclosed a couple of links for it. I bought mine at the traveling tool sale.

http://www.speedwaymotors.com/p/2925...=engine%20tilt

http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_1...0070921x00003a

This one includes the hoist and leveler from TSC.

http://www.tractorsupply.com/webapp/...stingPage=true

You don't need the engine adapter plate, I've never used one.

warwickben

iTrader: (1)

thanks about the info trochoid i new about the engine leveler to tilt the motor ect. used them before on piston motors.



iam the one in white, it allways seems to start to rain when were 75% done pulling a motor.

i know i look young but iam 22.
me and my buddy the one in blue bought that 1984 rs turbo capri. the guy we got it from took the turbo 2.3 out and put a 5.0 in and gave up on the swap. where putting the 2.3 back in (more power stock then a stock 5.0)

any guess what movie where trying to spoof

hint black and white film replace the motor with a bomb.

warwickben

iTrader: (1)

trochoid i figure i would ask you since you know alot you grumpy old man jk.

iam going to be taking the 12a out of my car and replaceing it with a streetport12a that i mite turbo down the road ect.
while i have the motor out, iam installing these parts.

from respeed

front and rear coil over kit,springs, cross member, sway bar, bushing kit.
strut tower bar that doesn't connect to the firewall.

from raceing beat
engine torque brace.

kyb gr-2 struts and shocks.

do you think it would be better if i left the tranny in or should i pull it with the motor.

rearviewmirror

I use ramps in the front and jackstands in the rear. Someone said above about being safety conscious. I too am very concerned with my own safety (and others) so I don't like a car sitting on 4 jackstands. Especially with the weight of the engine being moved around.

Here's my setup, it works well with the front on ramps and the rear on stands.

trochoid

iTrader: (6)

I find putting the tranny back in by itself a royal pita. It's so much easier to mate the clutch and tranny to the engine on the shop floor. The downside is the tranny fluid and bolts for the driveshaft, which I find easier to deal with than lifting and aligning the tranny to the engine, even with the pit in the shop floor.

warwickben

iTrader: (1)

i wount pull a motor if the car in in the air.
try my setup, when you dont need to remove the wheels .



get 4 junk rims all the same type with or with out tires. lay them on there side. jack car up and slide one rim under each wheel.

i need a good setup to get my car off the ground after i pull the motor, iam going to be removeing the cross member ect and rebuilding my whole Suspension
shocks, struts, bushing ect ect.

orion84gsl

iTrader: (5)

I've had my car on 4 jackstands for about 6 consecutive months. I was always lifting my tool boxes and jack (heavy ************) in and out of the trunk and getting in and out of the car, never had a single problem other than the dents in the asphalt. If you do it right, "IF", then it is perfectly safe. That's why the stands are rated at 2 tons per stand. Being extra cautious is always ok, but remember, the more stuff you put under the car, the more likely you are to bump something when you have to climb under. I also have ramps but they don't get the car high enough for my liking.