Installing a Ford Taurus E-Fan
#26
I run mine on low speed full time. Took a lot less cutting to get mine to fit. I was soooooooo lucky, I went to picknpull and a guy was pulling the rad out of a 3.8 taurus, the fan was just sitting there and he didn't need it! Better yet, it was 1/2 price that day too!
#27
#28
Dreamin of drivin my 7!
iTrader: (18)
Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 1,073
Likes: 1
From: Seabeck, Washington
I use a thermostatic switch on mine and have it set at about 170. It comes on for about 45 seconds to a minute every few minutes and my temp never even comes close to getting hot. Mines wired to the high setting and I'm running a large street port. Even consistent sustained 5 to 7 thousand rpm driving and it stays well in the safe zone.
Last edited by installer67; 02-27-10 at 02:57 AM.
#29
Dreamin of drivin my 7!
iTrader: (18)
Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 1,073
Likes: 1
From: Seabeck, Washington
My e-fan install w/Gilmer drive pulleys
Well, I finally finished my install of my Taurus fan. Install was easy as pie. I'm running the tall rad and the fan housing matched nearly perfect. I cut a 45 degree corner out to accomodate the heater hose in the lower right, and the mount screwed right to my outer fan shroud housing. I zip tied the feed wires back towards the battery and mounted my thermostatic switch to the base of my battery mount near frame. Wiring was simple too. 3 wires to fan, black was ground, brown was low speed and blue was high speed. I used the high speed and set my switch to about 165-170. It kicks on after a few minutes, and only runs about 45 seconds to cool my street ported 12a. My temp never goes more than 1/4 inch past warm mark. Even when doing high rpm driving. I did change the Allen head bolts on my Gilmer to standard heads though, because I only had about 2mm clearance with the allens. Too close for my comfort. Still have only about 4 to 5mm clearance, but it will suffice. Here's some pics.
#30
Nice writeup dude! I just joined the e-fan convert bandwagon myself. The taurus fan & shroud makes for a nice stock look. I went a different route, with a procomp 14" fan package that came with a derale mounting kit, thermostat, and relay and I scored it for less than $65 delivered off of ebay. I wasn't crazy about the mounting the fan or tstat directly through the fins, but it seems to be fine, for now at least. We'll see how the fins hold up in the long term, but the fan is really light. In fact it probably doesn't weigh much more than the dead bird I found stuck and mummified to the front of the radiator, lol.
I also took advantage of the a/c override circuit built into the relay to run a toggle switch inside the car. This way if the tstat switch failed for some reason, or otherwise hadn't kicked on the fan and the temps are getting a little warm, I can just turn it on manually. I strongly do not recommend to anyone to solely rely on a manual switch inside the car to turn on their efan. The results of forgetting to turn it on yourself or failing to tell someone who's borrowing/ driving your car, could be catastrophic!
Another idea I had was on the tstat circuit, I chose to wire it to a battery circuit instead of a switched ignition source, so now my efan runs after I've turned the car off, until the temp gets low enough for the tstat to turn it off. So now there is less heat soak for everything under the hood! As long as you have a good battery this should be fine, mine ran only for about 5 minutes after I parked it. I also tried it after a run but this time parked with the hood up, and it ran for even less time. And within less than a minute of closing the hood, the tstat kicked the fan on again, but this time for just a couple of minutes. Pretty cool, huh? This gives you some idea as to how hot it actually is under the hood after driving the car and having no airflow! I think it's something noteworthy to consider doing, at least.
When I get a chance, I'll scan in the derale installation instructions and post them up. It's probably very similar to other controllers.
I also took advantage of the a/c override circuit built into the relay to run a toggle switch inside the car. This way if the tstat switch failed for some reason, or otherwise hadn't kicked on the fan and the temps are getting a little warm, I can just turn it on manually. I strongly do not recommend to anyone to solely rely on a manual switch inside the car to turn on their efan. The results of forgetting to turn it on yourself or failing to tell someone who's borrowing/ driving your car, could be catastrophic!
Another idea I had was on the tstat circuit, I chose to wire it to a battery circuit instead of a switched ignition source, so now my efan runs after I've turned the car off, until the temp gets low enough for the tstat to turn it off. So now there is less heat soak for everything under the hood! As long as you have a good battery this should be fine, mine ran only for about 5 minutes after I parked it. I also tried it after a run but this time parked with the hood up, and it ran for even less time. And within less than a minute of closing the hood, the tstat kicked the fan on again, but this time for just a couple of minutes. Pretty cool, huh? This gives you some idea as to how hot it actually is under the hood after driving the car and having no airflow! I think it's something noteworthy to consider doing, at least.
When I get a chance, I'll scan in the derale installation instructions and post them up. It's probably very similar to other controllers.
#31
Well, I finally finished my install of my Taurus fan. Install was easy as pie. I'm running the tall rad and the fan housing matched nearly perfect. I cut a 45 degree corner out to accomodate the heater hose in the lower right, and the mount screwed right to my outer fan shroud housing. I zip tied the feed wires back towards the battery and mounted my thermostatic switch to the base of my battery mount near frame. Wiring was simple too. 3 wires to fan, black was ground, brown was low speed and blue was high speed. I used the high speed and set my switch to about 165-170. It kicks on after a few minutes, and only runs about 45 seconds to cool my street ported 12a. My temp never goes more than 1/4 inch past warm mark. Even when doing high rpm driving. I did change the Allen head bolts on my Gilmer to standard heads though, because I only had about 2mm clearance with the allens. Too close for my comfort. Still have only about 4 to 5mm clearance, but it will suffice. Here's some pics.
#34
Dreamin of drivin my 7!
iTrader: (18)
Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 1,073
Likes: 1
From: Seabeck, Washington
Seems they are cheaper now that I already bought mine. 230.00 plus shipping. see here http://cgi.ebay.com/NEW-MAZDA-ROTARY...3dfdd40c1#shId
#35
Not to necro this to badly but is there any way to trim the shroud so that its skinner and easier to attach puller style? Currently the motor is just barley hitting the waterpump pulley when I try to put it in and frankly Id rather not have to deal with the wiring headache of reversing the wiring (power to what should be ground and ground to power). Unfortunatly since my cars in full race trim the engines been stripped down to the essenstials so I couldnt tell you what it came with orginally just that theres a slot for a 2nd belt on the water pump pulley (currently only have 1)
#36
Alright, I know this is an older thread, but I feel I must post here. I picked up a fan from a 92 3.8L taurus and I can't get it to fit on my stock engined 79 at all. There is literally less than 1/8" of clearance between the water pump pulley and the fan motor. I don't mean to offend anyone, but this thing fits like crap and looks like crap. I've got it trimmed exactly as the instructions say, plus a little more just to get it in place. I had a more stock looking install on my old 82 with the single speed 91 Escort fan. Looks like I'll have to figure out some other way of mounting it.
#37
Thank.you so much for taking your time to put all this information together! If it weren't for you my car probably be a pile of ashes lol I knew I shoulda gone with a relay and the idiot from pepboys said I should be ok and.i should've known not to listen to those high school drop outs! Got the 30 amp wired it to the low speed instead of a switch i ran the signal wire from my ignition so when the key is on fan comes on. Thanks again for all your information.
-Jose
-Jose
#39
Question for you guys/gals...
i had to get an e-fan because I was in a pinch and ran to u pull and picked a fan up from a 92 tauras. Issue I had was I could only find the 4cyl one and not the 3.0/3.8 fan.
my fan only has 2 wires
Will this be sufficient for the time being?
I will be getting a 3.0 fan in the future, but I just need something now for an ecu hookup.
I can run the stock clutch fan if needed, but I want space and cooling at the same time.
i had to get an e-fan because I was in a pinch and ran to u pull and picked a fan up from a 92 tauras. Issue I had was I could only find the 4cyl one and not the 3.0/3.8 fan.
my fan only has 2 wires
Will this be sufficient for the time being?
I will be getting a 3.0 fan in the future, but I just need something now for an ecu hookup.
I can run the stock clutch fan if needed, but I want space and cooling at the same time.
#40
Always Wanting to Learn
iTrader: (49)
Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 3,078
Likes: 42
From: Cambridge, Minnesota
Question for you guys/gals...
i had to get an e-fan because I was in a pinch and ran to u pull and picked a fan up from a 92 tauras. Issue I had was I could only find the 4cyl one and not the 3.0/3.8 fan.
my fan only has 2 wires
Will this be sufficient for the time being?
I will be getting a 3.0 fan in the future, but I just need something now for an ecu hookup.
I can run the stock clutch fan if needed, but I want space and cooling at the same time.
i had to get an e-fan because I was in a pinch and ran to u pull and picked a fan up from a 92 tauras. Issue I had was I could only find the 4cyl one and not the 3.0/3.8 fan.
my fan only has 2 wires
Will this be sufficient for the time being?
I will be getting a 3.0 fan in the future, but I just need something now for an ecu hookup.
I can run the stock clutch fan if needed, but I want space and cooling at the same time.
I haven't seen the ones from the 4 cylinder Taurus cars, have any pics? Can text them to me too if need be.
It should work so long as you install it as a puller (as I imagine you would on an FC) and check the draw. So long as it isn't crazy amperage like these you should be alright.
I've got one from a V6 Taurus with the wiring connection for my FB that I'm gonna be getting rid of here really soon, if you'd rather just run that. I need to order a new aluminum radiator and two new e-fans for my FB tonight or tomorrow.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
Jeff20B
1st Generation Specific (1979-1985)
73
09-16-18 08:16 PM
[For Sale] Scratch & Dent, Used, and Open-Box Sale!
SakeBomb Garage
Vendor Classifieds
5
08-09-18 06:54 PM
t-von
3rd Generation Specific (1993-2002)
9
09-10-15 02:56 PM