IMPORTANT NOTE: "Auto to Manual Conversion"
#1
IMPORTANT NOTE: "Auto to Manual Conversion"
As well, a few of you know, i have done the auto to manual conversion in my rx7. I like the others had to make brackets to fit the transmission in, well to start:
The bracketing holes are nearly 6 inches, not 4, like listed in the manual for the swap.
The bracketing, even if made of 1/4 inch steel, may cause the bolts to break under the stress of bumpy roads and weak suspension.
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Currently i am rethreading my mounting holes for my 7 due to both bolts shearing off. Now that i undestand that this method will not hold longer than 15k im going to fab a new bracket that runs across the two holes to limit bending of the bolts and longer brackets to support the bounce with "puck" bushings.
Thanks to the manual for all the other info regarding the swap. Improvements on the bracket are vital to ensure longevity of the brace. Thank you, Jordain Brulotte
The bracketing holes are nearly 6 inches, not 4, like listed in the manual for the swap.
The bracketing, even if made of 1/4 inch steel, may cause the bolts to break under the stress of bumpy roads and weak suspension.
---------------------------------------------------------
Currently i am rethreading my mounting holes for my 7 due to both bolts shearing off. Now that i undestand that this method will not hold longer than 15k im going to fab a new bracket that runs across the two holes to limit bending of the bolts and longer brackets to support the bounce with "puck" bushings.
Thanks to the manual for all the other info regarding the swap. Improvements on the bracket are vital to ensure longevity of the brace. Thank you, Jordain Brulotte
#2
If you are using flat steel for your bracket, then it's probably flexing too much over the added 2". 1/4" should be strong enough if you add a stiffner leg, i.e., a down leg, so it functions like angle iron instead of a flat plate.
The leg will reduce the harmonic vibration that's breaking your bolts. What would be even stronger is a piece of shallow C channel.
The leg will reduce the harmonic vibration that's breaking your bolts. What would be even stronger is a piece of shallow C channel.
#3
Originally Posted by trochoid
If you are using flat steel for your bracket, then it's probably flexing too much over the added 2". 1/4" should be strong enough if you add a stiffner leg, i.e., a down leg, so it functions like angle iron instead of a flat plate.
The leg will reduce the harmonic vibration that's breaking your bolts. What would be even stronger is a piece of shallow C channel.
The leg will reduce the harmonic vibration that's breaking your bolts. What would be even stronger is a piece of shallow C channel.
Yes channel would have been nice if i would have had the access to some.
Because the flatbar was free i used 1/2" with rounded ends to match the new "bushings" And when i say bushings i mean medium soft hockey pucks from canadian tire. I used grade 8 M12x1.25x60mm for the original body holes and the same for the new end bracket pieces that mount to the trany itself. In addition to the bolts i used locknuts on the trany side of the bracket, with fender washers underneath and larger washers ontop to prevent any warping.
The completed product is very strong and professional looking. During further examination i came to notice that my motormounts are gone, wobly, and falling apart. Hockey pucks to the rescue once again
#7
i was wounder exactly what was everything you had to do cause i want to do the same thing. I know the clutch cylinder, pedal and actual trans but what else, and i would like to see the pictures of that brackit too.