I'm trying to take off my old exhaust...
#1
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I'm trying to take off my old exhaust...
And it's rusted like a ************. I broke one of my rachets on it, so I used that as an excuse to go buy an all new Craftsman tool set at Sears. Now, the rachet doesn't break, instead, it's ripping the brackets right off the exhaust. I already tried spraying WD-40 into the bolts... Nothin'.
I don't have a torch. It's not a matter of needing a breaker bar. I'm either going to just cut the old exhaust off with a hacksaw, or ???
Any ideas?
I don't have a torch. It's not a matter of needing a breaker bar. I'm either going to just cut the old exhaust off with a hacksaw, or ???
Any ideas?
#2
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I've found that the best way to handle the rust is to soak it in WD-40 or some other rust penetrant. The stuff that unfixes Thread locker works well, i've found. In two situations I've done two things-- Working on a 300Z, a friend and I just torched it off and welded on new spec hanger brackets.
... That being said, it's usually easier to put a vice on the part that's being bent/crushed and attach it to stomething sturdy so that you can loosen/strip the bolts at will.
-Jason
... That being said, it's usually easier to put a vice on the part that's being bent/crushed and attach it to stomething sturdy so that you can loosen/strip the bolts at will.
-Jason
#4
Originally Posted by snwyvern
soak it in WD-40 or some other rust penetrant.
Although I have to say it's friggin annoying to have to wait it out when you want to get some friggin' work done
#5
Resurrecting Gus
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Are you talking about the exhaust studs in the engine, or the actual piping? If you are talking about the piping under the car, just cut that crap off. If it is old and rusty then it isn't worth keeping anyway. Save yourself the bloody knuckles and hack that stuff off....
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The only thing I'm worried about is needing the old hangers for my new exhaust.
I reapplied the WD-40, and have been working on installing my interior instead.
I reapplied the WD-40, and have been working on installing my interior instead.
#11
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if the wd-40 doesnt the second time, go out and get som PB blaster, its the best **** ive ever used and you dont have to spray it on and wait for it to start working.
#12
Rotary Enthusiast
get a really long socket driver. My grandfather's got one like 20" long dubbed "the convincer" A couple quick hits with that and the bolts/ nuts are broke loose.
#13
PB Blaster is my first choice. Aerokroil works great too, if you can find it. After spraying, it may help to try tighten them just a notch; then back it off. I found that to work for me. Now, I swap my exhaust system completely out for a "stock" emissions system. I put anti-seize agent on most threads on all my exhaust fasteners, wheel studs and spark plugs.
#14
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Throw that WD-40 out and get some P B Blaster, you will be amazed at the difference between the 2 products.
Spray and soak, come back a couple of hours later and do it again. Work the nuts and bolts in BOTH directions, when they start to break loose, you are usually good to continue removal.
A propane cylinder, from a camp stove, with a $10 torch head ($15 total investment), will give you enough heat, if the penetrant doesn't do it.
Spray and soak, come back a couple of hours later and do it again. Work the nuts and bolts in BOTH directions, when they start to break loose, you are usually good to continue removal.
A propane cylinder, from a camp stove, with a $10 torch head ($15 total investment), will give you enough heat, if the penetrant doesn't do it.
#15
I just had the exact same problem. I was tryin to put on a full Racing Beat system, and I couldnt wait to put all that shiny new metal on the car. After my first try I went to a guy who had some more tools and know-how than I, and we got it all off and the only thing destroyed were a few bolts. We used some stuff called Liquid Wrench (magical ****), a big breaker bar (and a big hammer to help with that), a vice grip, and a rotary sander/grinder for the hopeless cases. Oh, and a set of Navy-built muscles (him, not me).
Good luck,
Joe
Good luck,
Joe
#16
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My old exhaust system was all rusted to hell so my dad just torched it. Much easier than fighting it. I relaize that not everyone has a torch, but when you're working on an old rusty car it sure is worth the investment.
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The only problem I have with a nice, cheap propane torch is, I just bought the car, and don't particularly trust it yet. Last thing I want to do is blow myself up by igniting leaky gasoline fumes.
The P B stuff hasn't worked, yet... I resprayed it, and will let it sit until tomorrow evening. Here's hoping.
The P B stuff hasn't worked, yet... I resprayed it, and will let it sit until tomorrow evening. Here's hoping.
#21
Originally Posted by $100T2
The only thing I'm worried about is needing the old hangers for my new exhaust.
I reapplied the WD-40, and have been working on installing my interior instead.
I reapplied the WD-40, and have been working on installing my interior instead.
go to autozone and buy this stuff called BP. its an acid that removes rust ASAP. it says as seen on tv on it, but trust me it works charms.
#22
Originally Posted by KCGSLSE
All I have to say is PB Blaster and/or a Sawsall.