I'm going to cry
#1
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I'm going to cry
Ok guys I need more help. First let me thank all of you for the last batch of advice.
To recap: I have a GSL-SE that I had flooded the crap out of. I got it unflooded but now I have this.
The car still won't start. As I was trying to start it, it seemed like it was not getting fuel now. The interior is gutted and I noticed that I could not hear the fuel pump. I checked fuses and all were fine except one that keeps blowing with the key in or not. A problem I'll check out later, but I don't think it's the fuel pump. In my manual it mentions a "Fuel pump cut off relay", I can not find the location of this relay. Can anyone help?
I love this car and want to build it but I am going to go Fing nuts. Help please.
To recap: I have a GSL-SE that I had flooded the crap out of. I got it unflooded but now I have this.
The car still won't start. As I was trying to start it, it seemed like it was not getting fuel now. The interior is gutted and I noticed that I could not hear the fuel pump. I checked fuses and all were fine except one that keeps blowing with the key in or not. A problem I'll check out later, but I don't think it's the fuel pump. In my manual it mentions a "Fuel pump cut off relay", I can not find the location of this relay. Can anyone help?
I love this car and want to build it but I am going to go Fing nuts. Help please.
#2
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Apexkiller,
I'm still on a hunt for my 1st Gen so I don't have an RX-7 frame of reference. However I have had a similar problem with my 93 Honda Accord. This problem plagues many Japanese cars. The main relay (as it is called in the Accords) controls several items including the fuel pump. What happens over time is some of the solder cracks due relay's poor ability to dissipate heat (relays generate a fair amount of heat). The result is poor connectivity across the circuit board thus the fuel pump is rendered inoperative and the engine does not turn over. This problem is magnified when the car has been sitting in the sun or it's very hot outside.
The fix is to replace the main relay. On my accord it took me 15 minutes (that included taking pictures for how to) and a total of $65 for the part from the dealer. The relay was located under the dash on the driver's side.
Hopefully someone here on the board can provide specifics as to where the relay is located.
-Mike
I'm still on a hunt for my 1st Gen so I don't have an RX-7 frame of reference. However I have had a similar problem with my 93 Honda Accord. This problem plagues many Japanese cars. The main relay (as it is called in the Accords) controls several items including the fuel pump. What happens over time is some of the solder cracks due relay's poor ability to dissipate heat (relays generate a fair amount of heat). The result is poor connectivity across the circuit board thus the fuel pump is rendered inoperative and the engine does not turn over. This problem is magnified when the car has been sitting in the sun or it's very hot outside.
The fix is to replace the main relay. On my accord it took me 15 minutes (that included taking pictures for how to) and a total of $65 for the part from the dealer. The relay was located under the dash on the driver's side.
Hopefully someone here on the board can provide specifics as to where the relay is located.
-Mike
#3
if you take the plate off where the fuel pump and filter are. there is a little white valve that looks like *****. thats the fuel cut off thingy. you dont really need it, unless you roll your car over. then your in trouble. but if you plan on staying greasy side down. you can just take it off if its giving you trouble. Thats what i did.
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On an SE, the relay that controls the fuel pump is called the circuit opening relay in the factory manual. It is near the ECU, and cold solder joints don't seem to be a problem with them.
When are you listening for the fuel pump? If it is only when you have the key in the ign position, you will not hear it. It is only operating with the key on start (from a wire in the ignition switch) or when the engine is running (from a switch in the air flow meter).
To check the pump, there is a connector by the air filter, beside the green TPS test connector. Black with two pins. Jump it, with the key on, and the pump should run. If it does, the relay is good.
Which fuse is blowing?
John.
When are you listening for the fuel pump? If it is only when you have the key in the ign position, you will not hear it. It is only operating with the key on start (from a wire in the ignition switch) or when the engine is running (from a switch in the air flow meter).
To check the pump, there is a connector by the air filter, beside the green TPS test connector. Black with two pins. Jump it, with the key on, and the pump should run. If it does, the relay is good.
Which fuse is blowing?
John.
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Interior light fuse is the one poping. As soon as the battery is connected or I replace the fuse it goes.
I am going to try the see if I can hear the injectors spray when I open the door.
I can't hear the pump with the the key at any point. I did a search here for the fuel pump relay and everythign i found sounds like my problem. It looks like from what I found is that is located under the steering column. I am going to do the jump wire trick and see what happens.
If it does not work, I am loading it on a hauler and will actually pay to have it done. I am at the point where I have lost it and am so pissed. This was supposed to be a fun project. I know it's my fault but I am still pissed.
I am going to try the see if I can hear the injectors spray when I open the door.
I can't hear the pump with the the key at any point. I did a search here for the fuel pump relay and everythign i found sounds like my problem. It looks like from what I found is that is located under the steering column. I am going to do the jump wire trick and see what happens.
If it does not work, I am loading it on a hauler and will actually pay to have it done. I am at the point where I have lost it and am so pissed. This was supposed to be a fun project. I know it's my fault but I am still pissed.
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#8
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Just for information:
Opening the flapper (door) in the AFM or using the jumper accomplish the same thing. If one works, the other will.
By the way, you won't hear the injectors spray using either method. All you will hear is the pump itself and the fuel circulating through the lines.
I would be interested to know what you found that is under the dash, related to the fuel pump. The 12A has a fuel pump cut relay under the dash, but not the 13B.
Don't give up!
-John.
Opening the flapper (door) in the AFM or using the jumper accomplish the same thing. If one works, the other will.
By the way, you won't hear the injectors spray using either method. All you will hear is the pump itself and the fuel circulating through the lines.
I would be interested to know what you found that is under the dash, related to the fuel pump. The 12A has a fuel pump cut relay under the dash, but not the 13B.
Don't give up!
-John.
#9
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I'd recommend installing a fuel pump switch while you're on the case. Very easy and guarantees that power is getting to the pump. Also kind of a anti-theft device.
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