well as you may have seen iv been havin trouble startin my car i have just got a haynes manual and checked out about testing the igniters it was the shouldnt be above or below 1000ohms well i tested myn and they were 1800and above plus it vaireyed after crankin they would decline and slowly build but they seem to still give me spark but musnt be good enough i went to a junkyard(only one with a distrib lol)and found that the leading was 1853 must be stuffed and tailing was 1080 witch is with reason must be good. well mainly what im askin is there other ignitors i can get and use no rx7s none in area with igniters trust me lol i had read a little of this thread
http://www.needfulthings.net/cgi-bin...ST;f=77;t=1511
and hes usin 1979 chevrolet nova ingniters on his dfi.....

and i want to know if any one has tryed these and what exsactly the 4 prongs doo and how i could wire it instead of the mitzi ones etc etc

thanks and good night

 

That set up looks like Jeff20B's dldfis set up. Check the faqs at the top of the page, there is a link to it. Those are typical GM hei ignitors.

 

I had some difficulty with following the process as outlined above, but I just switched my leading to HEI and it seems to work fine. Let me see if I can give some pointers:

1. Gutting the dead ignitor seems to be the easiest way to start. The pics of the gutted one are pretty clear. Inside, there are 4 contacts. Just solder little jumper wires as shown. Easy.

2. The stock ignitor has 2 posts that make a T-shape. The vertical part of the T is the B post, and the horizontal part is the C post. Just make a note of it.

3. The B post on the J109 connects to the G post on the HEI. The C post on the J109 connects to the W post on the HEI.

Other than that, make sure you mount the HEI on some kind of heat sink like the article shows. My setup has all the connections soldered together because I was too cheap to buy connectors. The wires off of the B and C from the HEI have blade connectors at the end so that I can plug them into the stock plug without cutting anything up. That way, if I ever get a J109, it will be a piece of cake to slap it in there.

Let me know if this needs more clarity. I'll be glad to assist.

 

Where did u find the specs for testing the resistance of the ignitors, i wasnt aware of that. I thought that since they were solid state you would only be able to test them with the test setup that they out line in the haynes. As well if you have a look in the FAQ you will find informatioin about converting to the HEI. It is very simple, and cost effective, at around 17-20 bux CDN.

 

zduford
its on page 109 just above section 9 under the distrib pic
its just says they need to be replaced if over 1000 or if you get no reading not sure if there stuffed but myn were way to high

devitek
yeah thats good enough iv also looked at the faq and there was a pic labeld etc
i brought the gm igniters and iv got it mounted where the old ones are just need to wire it and try this out hopefully the contact will be good enough for heat transfer ill let ya know tomorro how it goes

 

You can usually pick up J109s on eBay for $15-30.

 

thanks i didnt think of usin ebay
but iv allready got these gm ones and im gonna tryem from what if read there pretty good and someone mentioned alot better spark i think with my 2gendfi it should work great as well as a bonus any autoparts stocks them and only cost $17

 

k heres a follow up and sme picsiv wired it up correctly if only done the leading at the mo and tested it i got a massive spark increase i mean massive but still no start and ocasional spin fire but the rest is cracking with no go ill hook another one up on the trailing and see if theres any results but i doubt it any one have thought to why not startin
anyway heres the pic

the alt pic was for riceburner1r2001
black goes to alt plug hopw little drawings clear
red goes to where bat cable goes
brown just tap up

 

could i just have a bad ground etc my light dimm when i try to turn over is that normal?
should i consider doing a re wire

 

ty blwfly man does that help

 

I better start selling. those igniters are the usual junkyard pocket items, in other word, ITS FREEE!!. So when I get home, igniters get tossed in my large electrical parts box.

 

**** i got some priced up new at a autostore
350bucks goddamn

im gonna re check my carb this weekend 5time dont think its necaseray but hay
then im gonna look into my starter maybe its just not spinin fast enough id seen smoke off it once before,then im gonna check all grounds etc maybe its just not gettin enough juice as i said everything dims when i crank
then if i replace all that and still dont start this could be spme deep **** lol

 

I'd feel a lot better about debugging starting problems if I knew how to static-time the electronic ignition. That way you know you've got a fighting chance before even trying the starter. Solved a lot of starting problems on points based mechanical distributors that way in the past.

 

im having the same problem. I cant get the timing right. I set it to stock but nothing happens. So let us know what happens.

 

i brought another distrib for 45bucks thought was pretty allrite since 100 was every else
should a 82 gsl distrib work fine it fits but alot tighhter and hard to remove

any pointers what i should use to clean it like wd40 or carb cleaner etc is it neccary to pull apart iv done it once before and certinally wont do it again only one igniter seems good but ill try a variation of my gm one and old ones
any help would be cool

edit ops i forgot to say i have a 83

 

but like is ya car going at all or just trunin over doin an ocasional fire?
like im experinceing

 

Im pretty much expericeing the same thing that you are. I get it to go like for 15 seconds....and then just dies. so i adjust the timming a little and it dies. Ive even had it backfire out of the carb a few times, Ya 3 foot flames outta there is NOT a good thing .

But i have rebuilt my carb twice! And its properly adjusted right now. I have replaced my cap and rotor. Cleaned my spark plugs. I am gettting spark.

Last time this happened. i rotated that crank pully 180 Dergrees and set the dizzy at base timing, and it started right up. and ran.

 

awsomw ill try this and see what happens thanks
any pointers on cleaning the distrib when i tipped it up side down some rust water come out im talkin bout the one i just purchased

"Last time this happened. i rotated that crank pully 180 Dergrees and set the dizzy at base timing, and it started right up. and ran."

so you got it going or as you said up the top its back to normal?

 

i proded around with an muiltimeter and its all got power meaning the igniter plugs and wires to coils
just thinkin is the yellow/blue stip for negitive leading
and yellow/green strip for trailing

the white plug for leading igniter and blue for trailing just makin sure its wired corectly
inside the distrib the wires off te pickups theres a green and a red im assuming red+ green-
can anyone varify this?

 

oh and from what iv read i should be able to run with out trailing
is this corecct?
i just foung my 2gen coil was only firin out of one side thought that was strange iv returned back to old coil but no go still plus iv got my other dizzy in now with the gm igniter so maybe my problem dosnt lie in ignition and it cant be my carb plus i think im also destroying my new bat by daining it so much hmm

 

well i didnt just turn the dizzy 180, i turned the crank shaft pull 180. I literally drew the circle of the pullyand then cut in half, and marked the marks on the other side. Adjusted it and it ran. I havent tried this again, seeing as my battery is DEAD. But i dont think that it could hurt all that much....itll work or not.

You can run with out the leading, its basically just for emissions as far as i understand

for that day i had it going, then i took it and but i am having the EXACT same problem.as you now.

And all the things i have done has not helped. ( im thinking this could be the thread to end all no start problems....)

I do belive you have the dizzy all wired up right, the easiest way is to pull a trailing, and leading wire, and just put the spark plug and ground to the strut tower or something metal. Ya get spark, "its good to go". If ya dont, then something is wired wrong.

 

well i have evan brought some new coil today acell somthin nice and shiney
iv goten to the point where i was swapen parts on the dizzys thinkin the pick ups werent workin but the dizzys have the same efect switched around the igniters(gm ones) i think my trailing one is busted (brand new bastards lol) but i still have leading it now fires a little(due to mu new coils)i think. im gonna get a new gm igniter but as you said it should still start and i know for sure its all wired correctly iv tryed every posible figuration and know that all wireing isnt shorted iv tested with my muilty metter i havent tryed the 180degree but will tomorro im pretty sure it shouldnt affect it my bat wont hold a decent charge now which sucks its only 1month old. evan if my carb wasnt right it should still go a little from starter fluid as before when it was runin 5-10seconds i can only update how the next day goes still wish more people would give ideas sorry for postin so much to read but more info is always better

 

Let me know how the 180 thing goes, and i know how that is about the batt. Mines a year old, and has been charged more then a 20 year old batt i bet. :s This is a pain in the ***.

 

well i tryed ya 180 trick i didnt evan get a fire so i changed it back i checked it was not flooded and cleaned the plugs hmm iv done it a million times now i was quite suprised that the pully have to do two rotations so the distrib lines its dot up
1 question how should i be placing the distrib on the nut fully advance,fully retarded
iv been puttin it smack in the middle ill take a pic of how it was setup when it was goin i duno but they had cut the timing set bracket and advanced it way to much but when i checked with my timing light (when the car was goin of corse)it seemed right made me puzzled but ok

back to now im waiting on my bat to charge again the only things i can do now is change the igniter back to a variation of 3 i have which all are by the haynes STUFFED

and maybe starter but its turnin over fine and almost firin might get one out of 3trys startin

that pics just how it origanly was set

 

if they had it that far advanced then im assuming that the timing was off buy a tooth. I belive that for it to run properly it has to be in the middle.

Im at a loss of what to do....ill try and think of something else todo....:S.... and i wish someone else would come and help!!!!