Idling issues
#1
Newbie
Thread Starter
Idling issues
Hi guys,
I have just bought a 1980 Series 1 Rx7, it is running a 12a Bridgeport with 48mm IDA
When I picked it up yesterday, it started and ran fine and we loaded it on my trailer no problem and same again once back at my house (5 hour drive away) started fine drove it in to my garage where I parked it up for the night,
When I woke up this morning, I pulled it out of the garage and fired it up but for some reason is running horribly, no pulse and even when opening the throttle it spits and misses a little bit and overall just sounds dull.
So far, I noticed the band where the exhaust manifold meets the first flexi was loose so I have tightened that all up, I checked and replaced the spark plugs with new ones and i noticed the fuel pressure was set at 3psi which I tried to wind up a touch which made no difference at all,
If anyone has any advice on what I can try next, it will be much appreciated
I have just bought a 1980 Series 1 Rx7, it is running a 12a Bridgeport with 48mm IDA
When I picked it up yesterday, it started and ran fine and we loaded it on my trailer no problem and same again once back at my house (5 hour drive away) started fine drove it in to my garage where I parked it up for the night,
When I woke up this morning, I pulled it out of the garage and fired it up but for some reason is running horribly, no pulse and even when opening the throttle it spits and misses a little bit and overall just sounds dull.
So far, I noticed the band where the exhaust manifold meets the first flexi was loose so I have tightened that all up, I checked and replaced the spark plugs with new ones and i noticed the fuel pressure was set at 3psi which I tried to wind up a touch which made no difference at all,
If anyone has any advice on what I can try next, it will be much appreciated
#2
84SE-EGI helpy-helperton
How long was it running when you loaded it up on the trailer, and then again when you got it home? The worst thing you can do to a rotary engine is start it then shut it down before it warms up. If you did that twice, its possible that youve dislodged carbon from the oil control rings, rotor faces or housings, which has lodged one or more of the side, corner, or apex seals. When this occurs, you just need to get it warmed up enough that the carbon dislodges or softens enough to free up and get ejected out the exhaust. Some seafoam in a vacuum hose leading directly into the intake might help.
In the future, just be aware of it and avoid not letting it warm up. I actually push the car around the garage if I don't have time to start it up and actually drive it a few miles. If it ran well before, this is the most likely scenario. Search on "carbon lock"...
In the future, just be aware of it and avoid not letting it warm up. I actually push the car around the garage if I don't have time to start it up and actually drive it a few miles. If it ran well before, this is the most likely scenario. Search on "carbon lock"...
#3
Newbie
Thread Starter
Oh right ok,
it was running both sides roughly 10-15mins
after I changed the plugs yesterday I had it running for close to 20mins while trying to give it a rev here and there and no change,
I forgot to mention that when I changed the plugs the leading were cleaner than the trailing too
it was running both sides roughly 10-15mins
after I changed the plugs yesterday I had it running for close to 20mins while trying to give it a rev here and there and no change,
I forgot to mention that when I changed the plugs the leading were cleaner than the trailing too
#4
Newbie
Thread Starter
Ok so,
I tested for spark and neither of the trailing plugs were sparking but both of the leading plugs were sparking,
I then switched the coil leads and retested,
now both of the trailing plugs are sparking and neither of the leading plugs are sparking,
I will get a new lead tomorrow and try that and hopefully that’s the issue!
I tested for spark and neither of the trailing plugs were sparking but both of the leading plugs were sparking,
I then switched the coil leads and retested,
now both of the trailing plugs are sparking and neither of the leading plugs are sparking,
I will get a new lead tomorrow and try that and hopefully that’s the issue!
#5
seniorchief
Ok so,
I tested for spark and neither of the trailing plugs were sparking but both of the leading plugs were sparking,
I then switched the coil leads and retested,
now both of the trailing plugs are sparking and neither of the leading plugs are sparking,
I will get a new lead tomorrow and try that and hopefully that’s the issue!
I tested for spark and neither of the trailing plugs were sparking but both of the leading plugs were sparking,
I then switched the coil leads and retested,
now both of the trailing plugs are sparking and neither of the leading plugs are sparking,
I will get a new lead tomorrow and try that and hopefully that’s the issue!
#6
84SE-EGI helpy-helperton
Or you have a bad Ignitor. Is your tachometer working properly? It takes it's signal from the Trailing Coil, which is the coil closest to the front of the car (*don't ask me why...).
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stevem408 (09-18-24)
#7
Newbie
Thread Starter
no the tacho isn’t working it is locked at 5k rpm I just assumed it hasn’t been wired up completely as the interior is a work in progress (no dash etc)
I ended up replacing both of the coil leads and is still misfiring!
I haven't retested the spark after doing that as I was feeling a bit defeated at the time
i tried wiggling wires on the coils and around the distributor but no changes
im going to get a test light and a multimeter tomorrow to start doing some more eliminating before buying more unnecessary parts
do you have any tips for how to use these correctly and what to try first and if not following that?
thanks
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