I was out at a track day yesterday, and all was going well . . . until the bushings went in my idler arm. Since the effect was so dramatic and so fast, I'm guessing heat from the turbo and exhaust melted them.

I do have a heat shield over the idler arm but it may not have been enough.

I've heard good comments about the Moog idler arm. I've also heard it's a ball joint style.

- How does a ball joint work in this application? My bad idler arm is acting like a ball joint, and that's not good. The end that's bolted to the car needs to rotate around a single axis.

- How heat-resistant is the Moog idler arm?

Any other suggestions?

 

I'd recommend the moog unit, the ball joint action should be obvious from this photo:



Rockauto has it for $50.79 plus shipping.

Any unit will be sensitive to excess heat that compromises either the rubber bushings in the stock unit or the dust boot on the moog unit.

 

I don't think the pivot at the end that mounts to the car can be a ball joint or it wouldn't function properly. I ask the question because I've heard the term "ball joint" used with this part, but I'm guessing that must be a misnomer.

 

The joint going to the car on the moog unit is a standard ball joint type, it replaces the double bushings and axle of the stock unit.

Ball joints on both ends, a much better design in my opinion.

 

Ditto! Been running the moog unit for 8 years now

 

Yeah I've had my moog idler since 2004 or so and love it. Rockauto is the way to go too, much cheaper than other sites that have it.

 

Mazdatrix and the like call this the "race version" and charge lots for it. I put a used Moog on about 6 years ago and it's still perfect. Highly recommended for those who don't ever want to have it fail again.



.

 

OK - thanks all. After looking at this thing long enough, it seems clear that the car side pivot isn't a ball joint, but rather a single axis swivel. Moog calls it a "gusher bearing", which I can only assume refers to grease gushing through it, and they mention a spring to keep the assembly tight.

I'm joining the club and getting one.

 

I guess I never gave it enough thought one way or the other, but you're correct, the car/frame side could not be a typical ball joint and still work correctly

You'll be happy with it, don't worry!

 

Well I'll be darned. That chassis "ball joint" on the Moog unit does articulate in only one axle dimension. Good call Elwood.

 

It has one pivot, and one ball joint. Definitely a much more solid piece than stock.

 

I got it, installed it, like it. It's noticeably beefier than the OEM piece . . . and no plastic! Thanks again all.

 

Nice! However, you lose true "racer" status because you didn't overpay for the "race version" through Mazdatrix or someplace.

 

It could still be a ball joint type design if the load-bearing surface is hemispherical but the bottom bore doesn't allow it to swing, only to rotate; it would be a 'constrained rotation' ball joint. More likely, it's a conical bearing.

The "gusher bearing" designation means the stationary load-bearing surface is made from sintered (powdered and then pressure-reformed) metal that is porous and allows lube to flow through it - - doesn't refer to the mechanical design of the joint.

See here: spec sheet for a tie-rod end but it defines the 'gusher bearing.'

http://www.moogproblemsolver.com/_pd...ie_Rods_En.pdf

 

In another piece of literature it mentions that the gusher bearing is spring loaded to counteract freeplay as it wears. I'm betting it's conical.

We need somebody to cut one open. Any volunteers .

 

i got a Moog unit from 82transam and i honestly couldn't be happier with the unit. it improved steering feel and i'm confident that it will last a long time!

 

That'd be the 'belleville spring' (sometimes called a belleville washer), which is used in ball-type joints as well. They are circular, with a hole in the center, and exert pressure axially. The shape is officially called "frustro-conical," meaning it's cone-shaped but without an apex.

They're also used in land mines, interestingly enough.

Good luck finding anyone who's actually worn one out!

 

DD, sometimes you remind me of that Mailman from Cheers. So much information in that noggin of yours!

 

That being why I can't find my car keys some days; I got a brain like a broom closet- - stuffed full of strangely relevant miscellany. Things get lost in there.

(Mailman character on Cheers was Cliff Clavin (John Ratzeberger); that character was partly patterned from a much better character in an earlier sitcom, 'Lt. Dietrich' from Barney Miller, played by Steve Landesburg. Loved that show when it was on!)

 

^hahahahaha, i know the feeling. the older i get, the more things i seem to misplace, lol.

 

Damn -- this thread just won't die . . .

 

Yep.

Kind of like a Moog Idler Arm. It never dies.

Damn. Now that I think about it, where'd I put that idler arm? I'm gonna need it in a few months.

 

why should the thread die? maybe someone else likes another brand and can share experiences they've had with their idler arm. often times i buy the bushing kit and i rebuild mine if the ball joint is still good on the arm.

 

im 1+ on the moog unit too i have used it on 3 7s so far......... dang i need to get another one for the newest addition the 80 LS

 

I'm going to order one of those fancy moog idler arms, then probably feel really dumb for how many sets of tie rods I have replaced only for them to fail again and again when the idler arm was the real issue.